Manton Customs

All the above answers are good ones. It might be something which gets too much thought (if that's possible) and there are an awful lot of opinions expressed as fact on the subject at various forums (I'm not referring to the good people here ). The reality is that it really doesn't matter too much as long as it's something safe (no silicone, no water). So seeing as you've got Lemon Oil, go with that. All the other products mentioned basically serve the same purpose. For the neck itself, you'll want to get your self a wiping varnish of some sort, unless you want a lacquer finish which is not so beginner friendly. Various options for the wiping varnish would be Danish Oil, Tru Oil, Liberon Finishing Oil, Tung Oil and probably quite a few others, but they are the ones I have used. You'll notice some of those names don't sound like a wiping varnish at all as they are given names with the word "oil" in. They are not really true oil finishes, but a varnish made up from oil, thinners and a resin such as polyurethane. If you want a gloss, you'd be best looking at Liberon or Tru.

Nitro is actually softer than the Poly you'll find on guitars. Lo-E is right, if it's 70s it won't be Nitro unless it has been refinished, but they continued to spray the headstock face with Nitro as compatibility issues were expected between the decal and Poly. If you could get the picture to show up we may be able to tell more. If this happens (bloom) during finishing the way of fixing it is to either spray lacquer thinner, or simply a new coat of Nitro. So the issue with the lacquer is anything like this the fix may need to be the same (more lacquer). Though if it's just on the surface you may be able to simply buff it out.

Glad to help and thank you

Meguiars ultimate compound should work for you, definitely ok on nitro though if the scratches are quite deep, you may need repeat applications. Keep in mind that all these products actually remove finish, or at least the top surface. So if the guy who refinished it didn't lay down enough lacquer, burn throughs are a possibility. Take it easy round the edges where burning through is most likely.

If you go for a grain filler, you may struggle a bit with the 'slurry' method on Ash. That method works fairly well on small pores like Walnut, but Ash usually has great big chasms which may be a bit too much for the slurry to achieve a 100% fill. You'd be better off buying a either a purpose made paste grain filler or Epoxy, it'd certainly be quicker! Though if I were you I'd probably leave the pores and have it feeling a bit more natural, that's supposed to be what an oil finish is all about anyway . Looks like a fun project, good luck! .

If you were to have it refinished, it'd be a fairly simple job for the luthier doing the refinish to fill that hole (with matching wood) before painting.

Feel free to send me a PM or email, I would be glad to advise .

[quote name='christofloffer' timestamp='1448793903' post='2918115'] well, thats a really kind offer but i have made a bit of a call. i asked my mum the very rude question of how much the bass cost in the first place and the whole caboodle was under £100 new. taking into account the fairly neglected life its had up until recently i dont think its worth messing about with it. instead i am just going to start looking at a better quality bass. this one can just go as a spare and a travelling hack. when i picked it up in earnest i was going to play for a while before deciding wether or not i was going to stick at it or not. i am enjoying it far too much to be dropping it so its worth a better bass. doesnt seem wise to me to spend anything on something that i am thinking of replacing in the near future anyway really. i may have you take a look at the new one once i get it to make sure i am starting with it set up properly. perhaps once i have a better one to hand i will strip this one down and use it as a learning experience. i am not lost on woodworking so it might be a chance to learn some new skills. [/quote] Ok, no problem. If you change your mind or need help with the new one let me know, hefty discount still applies ! While it's obviously a cheap bass, with the right setup it should still play well and in tune, so in the meantime you could try setting the intonation again yourself. Are the saddles maxed out as far as they will go back (E and A)? If not you can adjust it as Howie has suggested, bringing them further backwards and the D and G forward. Though I was assuming that you had ran out of travel, which could well be the nut as mentioned earlier.

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1448658866' post='2917307'] Any mileage in suggesting a meet-up with a more experiences BC member somewhere in your vicinity (around M[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]arket Drayton, Shropshire, I think..?)..? Someone who could have a look at your set-up and help out with intonation guidelines, truss rod, neck relief, nut..? I'm too far away, of course, but if you ask nicely (and could offer biscuits... ), there may be someone close by..? Just sayin'. [/font][/color] [/quote] Good thinking Batman. If that's correct and the location is Market Drayton then I pass through fairly often (next due 2 weeks ish), so I could collect it and deliver it back also . I haven't got quite so desperate as to accept biscuits as payment for services yet (next year maybe!) but I could definitely give a decent sized BC member discount. Send me a PM or email if you like, I'd be glad to help a basschatter out . Robin (that means I get to call people batman )

[quote name='Funky Dunky' timestamp='1448482466' post='2915844'] Yes sir, every last one of them is tight. I have been able to improve it somewhat by [b]loosening[/b] the truss rod,, leaving it overnight, then tightening it up a bit today. Still not where it was, so I will give it another quarter turn in a few hours and see if it helps. [/quote] If your problem is still too much relief you should have done the opposite. Tightening the rod removes relief. Think of it as if you were doing up a screw, counter clockwise loosens, clockwise tightens....tightening straightens the bow of the neck therefore shortening the distance between fret and string at the middle frets. Focus on getting one part right before moving onto the next, that one part is the truss rod . Also you really don't need to wait hours between adjustments, especially as you're on a deadline, get it as close as you can then give it time to settle.before finalising if necessary (often its not). If you don't force anything you won't do any damage. Edit: I should read what I quote more carefully , I see you have tightened it! Could you explain the current issue...what happens when you tighten the rod? Does the relief reduce?

It sounds like you have been adjusting the truss rod the wrong direction at some point in the setup session. If the relief had increased you needed to turn the rod clockwise. In future don't adjust the saddles if you suspect the problem is weather induced (saddles will not change with temp/humidity). The relief is the only thing that has changed, just a quarter turn on the truss rod (clockwise!) would have done it by the sound of it. Start by getting your relief correct, then adjust the saddles from there.

You may be able find someone closer to you, but if not feel free to send me a PM or email . Here's a couple I've finished recently as examples. 8 string true temperament Matriarch guitar: [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Finished%20Matriarch%20True%20Temperament%208%20string/Manton%20Customs%20Matriarch%208%20string%201%20Front.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Finished%20Matriarch%20True%20Temperament%208%20string/Manton%20Customs%20Matriarch%208%20string%201%20Front.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Echo MKII Tele inspired guitar: [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Manton%20Customs%20True%20Temperament%20Echo%20MKII/19.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Manton%20Customs%20True%20Temperament%20Echo%20MKII/19.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

It sounds likely that it could be the nut sots, these can throw out intonation quite badly if too high or uneven. Your best bet would be to take it to a tech or luthier and explain your issues to him.

That depends on the species of wood you are using. If Ash, Mahogany or anything else with coarse grain then yes. If Alder, Maple or Cherry then no grain filler will be required. The list of species above which [b]does[/b] require a filler is far from complete, but there are very few species that do not require a filler other than those mentioned....Ebony and Pear would be two others but I doubt you're using either of those for a body blank . It's also possible to fill the grain using multiple coats of sanding sealer, or the lacquer itself however this is much harder work than simply using a grain filler as you have to sand back every few coats or you'll just create deep craters where the grain is. Again this would also take a lot of coats and a lot of sanding, so is not really advisable.

That's good to hear, I was a bit doubtful that the tutorial would be of much use to anyone as wooden bridges on basses aren't exactly common. So I'm glad it may be of use and good luck if you have a go at it.

Thank you

[color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] As I was making a bridge for one of my restoration projects ([url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/254672-16-archtop-guitar-restoration-1938-cromwell-g4-by-gibson-relic/"]see Gibson Cromwell Restoration[/url]) I thought I would outline the process here for anyone wanting to have a go at it. This is for a guitar but the process is easily transferable to bass. In this case I'm having to make one as it's not possible to find a vintage correct one ready made. It's a simple but time consuming process, so if buying one is an option I'd probably recommend going that route! Making a wooden bridge does have an extra advantage though....cost! Even including the thumb wheels and the blank itself (which you may already have) the cost is next to non existent. You'll need a tailpiece for this design, but this can be as simple as string through body ferrules (again mega cheap!) or a simple wooden design. Fortunately I have the original tailpiece for this guitar, so it's not a concern here and we will be focusing only on the bridge. These bridges are adjustable for height though not for intonation however intonation will be pretty damn good if placed correctly. If you're planning on building a similar design for a flat top guitar (perhaps tune o matic equipped) you can skip to step 10 and in step 7 you would mount your posts directly into the top of the guitar. So for those of you who are building on a very tight budget or trying to match something (as I am) or simply make something attractive and unique, here's how you can go about doing it. Here's the blank, from which I will be cutting both pieces of the bridge. It's some rather beautiful Brazilian Rosewood in this case. I have marked it up with the correct dimensions for my bridge, which is actually quite large as you'll soon see![/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/1%20blank.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/1%20blank.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Starting on the bottom part (which will later have the posts inserted) I cut it out on the bandsaw...though a handsaw would be perfectly possible. Then plane it by hand to get it to the correct dimensions.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/2%20planing.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/2%20planing.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] With that done it's time to give the base it's shape. You can skip this step if your guitar or bass has a flat top. As this is an arch top the bottom of the bridge has to match the arch of the top. I rough it out close with files, scrapers and sanding before attached abrasive paper to the guitar top itself. Make sure you mount the paper with low tack masking tape so as not to damage the finish...do not use super strong double sided tape!!! As you can see I also have a side rail (the piece of Ebony) to guide the bridge and keep it straight as it is pushed across the top. This is an old trick used on old stringed instruments when fitting bridges.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/3%20base%20sanding.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/3%20base%20sanding.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Here you can see the arch has now been sanded into the base.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/4%20curve.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/4%20curve.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] This is what you are aiming for, no gaps and the bridge fitting tightly across the whole length of the it.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/5%20curve%20sanded.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/5%20curve%20sanded.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Next we give it the shape, make sure to mark it up before carving anything, so that you get it symmetrical.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/6%20shaping.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/6%20shaping.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Here I'm drilling the posts using a simple template for repeat-ability, you don't want them in a straight line, for correct intonation you want the bass side angled further back by approx 3 mm. As you can see I'm using a drilling template so that I can copy the holes into the top part of the bridge easily afterwards. I use a drill press to ensure the holes run straight[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/7%20a%20drilling%20template.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/7%20a%20drilling%20template.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Now time to tap that ass!...ok sorry. In case that made no sense I'm basically threading (or tapping!) the holes so that I can insert the posts. To do this I chuck the post into a handheld drill making sure to tape off the chucked section so the threads do not get damaged. Then I do it up with the drill until I get approx 12 mm of threaded section above the base. This threads the wood as the post is inserted and I personally find it easier than using an actual tap.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/7%20tapping.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/7%20tapping.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Posts inserted.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/8%20tapped.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/8%20tapped.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Here is the bottom complete with thumb wheels, now onto the top.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/9%20bottom%20complete.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/9%20bottom%20complete.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] The blank for the top, cut from the same piece as the bottom and planed[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/10%20top.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/10%20top.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Here I have drilled for the posts (again using a press) and begun shaping it using the tools seen here.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/11%20shaping%20top%20and%20drilling.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/11%20shaping%20top%20and%20drilling.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Next more shaping, I'm cutting the feat of the bridge for where the wheels will sit. These need to be the same thickness as the wheel, so when the bridge is set to it's lowest position, the base will sit flat against the bottom. It's rough cut with the fret saw before being shaved down with the chisel.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/12%20cutting%20feet.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/12%20cutting%20feet.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Here we go, all finished minus string slotting.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/15%20finished%204.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/15%20finished%204.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/13%20finished.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/13%20finished.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/14%20finished.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/14%20finished.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Thanks for looking, I hope this tutorial has been useful to someone somewhere [/size][/font][/color]

You want balance in a laminated neck so something like this[b] /l\ [/b]if a three piece,[b] \l/[/b] would also be fine. This is a rough illustration of the end grain when viewed from the heel of the neck blank or headstock end. This principle is basically the same for 5 piece necks too as the thinner laminates shouldn't cause any problems. The idea is to get as close to 1/4 sawn as possible (which would be vertical grain direction: [b]l[/b]) and to counteract movement within the pieces. So you want your central lam to be a close to vertical as possible and the outer ones mirrored.

Thanks very much gents! Yep, it was the plan to wind back the clock to before it got broken rather than to when it was new . Bridge tutorial: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/271393-manton-customs-wooden-guitar-or-bass-bridge-tutorial/

[color=#141823][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=3]Here we are, the finished restoration![/size][/font][/color] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%201.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%201.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%202.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%202.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%203_1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%203_1.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%204.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%204.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%209.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%209.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20%20Fin%208.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20%20Fin%208.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%205.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%205.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%206.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%206.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%2010.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%2010.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%2011.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%2011.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [color=#141823][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=3]A final before and after shot.[/size][/font][/color] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/before%20after%20gibson%20finished.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/before%20after%20gibson%20finished.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Thanks all for watching

Thanks guys . In answer to how it sounds...really nice and (perhaps) surprisingly loud! It also plays great with an action height of around 1.5 mm.

[color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]It's been wayyy to long since I updated this, the restoration was completed months ago so here are the final few pictures of the restoration. Then I'll get some decent completed pics up.[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]Anyway, here are some of the now repaired side. You can still see where the damage was, but it's quite an attractive fix maintaing maximum original material and blending in nicely. Though most importantly the guitar is now completely solid and stable.[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]The areas were colour matched with tinted Nitro followed by clear, then buffed out to match the surrounding areas.[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/C.jpg.html"][/url][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/A.jpg.html"][/url][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/B.jpg.html"][/url][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/D.jpg.html"][/url][/font][/color] [size=4][color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]And for fun a quick before and after shot[/font][/color][/size] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/before%20after.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/before%20after.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [size=4][color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]Next up I made a bridge for it out of Brazilian Rosewood. I took some progress pictures of this and wrote a bit of a tutorial, so if anyones interested in seeing how to make a wooden bridge, I'll put these up.[/font][/color][/size] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=2][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/14%20finished.jpg.html"][/url][/size][/font][/color] [size=4][color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]Slotting the bridge.[/font][/color][/size] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=2][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/IMG_5262.jpg.html"][/url][/size][/font][/color] [size=4][color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]Now the headstock gets some love, replacing the ill fitting piece of plastic with a well fitted Mother of Pearl inlay, which gives the headstock a touch of class![/font][/color][/size] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=2][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/headstock.jpg.html"][/url] [size=4]Next up... finished pictures! Thanks for watching[/size] [/size][/font][/color]

What is the issue with the truss rod? This may be the appropriate fix depending on the issue [url="http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Truss_Rods/Truss_Rod_Rescue_Kit.html"]http://www.stewmac.c...Rescue_Kit.html[/url] If you need a new neck, we can do that for you too . But it wouldn't be cheap being handmade.

There isn't a B profile, the letters (C, U, D, V) refer to the profile (shape of the back) of the neck, so a V will look just like a V a C the letter C and so on. When radius is mentioned it will be referring to the fingerboard, they typically range from 7.5" to 20" but there are of course exceptions such as an "infinite radius"....which is flat and lower than 7" on double basses. The higher the number the flatter the board (so 20" is very flat). Front to back thickness will depend entirely on the individual and a slim neck does not necessarily mean a more comfortable or faster neck. Width is also down to personal preference and will more often than not will range from between 38-42 mm at the nut on 4 string basses.

It looks like something went wrong with the finish in the first place, such as a containment on the wood (like silicone) preventing the finish to adhere. I've too have seen several Ibanez basses (same finish) with the exact same problem in the same area, so perhaps they had a batch or two where they balls up the finish. Why that spot though, I don't know, perhaps it lifted from the edge of the neck pocket. Anyway, careful colour matching with wood dye should get it looking less noticeable, once it has dried you could give it a coat or two of paste wax (Briwax, Liberon etc) to restore a bit of sheen.