Manton Customs

[quote name='Funky Dunky' timestamp='1448482466' post='2915844'] Yes sir, every last one of them is tight. I have been able to improve it somewhat by [b]loosening[/b] the truss rod,, leaving it overnight, then tightening it up a bit today. Still not where it was, so I will give it another quarter turn in a few hours and see if it helps. [/quote] If your problem is still too much relief you should have done the opposite. Tightening the rod removes relief. Think of it as if you were doing up a screw, counter clockwise loosens, clockwise tightens....tightening straightens the bow of the neck therefore shortening the distance between fret and string at the middle frets. Focus on getting one part right before moving onto the next, that one part is the truss rod . Also you really don't need to wait hours between adjustments, especially as you're on a deadline, get it as close as you can then give it time to settle.before finalising if necessary (often its not). If you don't force anything you won't do any damage. Edit: I should read what I quote more carefully , I see you have tightened it! Could you explain the current issue...what happens when you tighten the rod? Does the relief reduce?

It sounds like you have been adjusting the truss rod the wrong direction at some point in the setup session. If the relief had increased you needed to turn the rod clockwise. In future don't adjust the saddles if you suspect the problem is weather induced (saddles will not change with temp/humidity). The relief is the only thing that has changed, just a quarter turn on the truss rod (clockwise!) would have done it by the sound of it. Start by getting your relief correct, then adjust the saddles from there.

You may be able find someone closer to you, but if not feel free to send me a PM or email . Here's a couple I've finished recently as examples. 8 string true temperament Matriarch guitar: [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Finished%20Matriarch%20True%20Temperament%208%20string/Manton%20Customs%20Matriarch%208%20string%201%20Front.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Finished%20Matriarch%20True%20Temperament%208%20string/Manton%20Customs%20Matriarch%208%20string%201%20Front.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Echo MKII Tele inspired guitar: [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Manton%20Customs%20True%20Temperament%20Echo%20MKII/19.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Manton%20Customs%20True%20Temperament%20Echo%20MKII/19.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

It sounds likely that it could be the nut sots, these can throw out intonation quite badly if too high or uneven. Your best bet would be to take it to a tech or luthier and explain your issues to him.

That depends on the species of wood you are using. If Ash, Mahogany or anything else with coarse grain then yes. If Alder, Maple or Cherry then no grain filler will be required. The list of species above which [b]does[/b] require a filler is far from complete, but there are very few species that do not require a filler other than those mentioned....Ebony and Pear would be two others but I doubt you're using either of those for a body blank . It's also possible to fill the grain using multiple coats of sanding sealer, or the lacquer itself however this is much harder work than simply using a grain filler as you have to sand back every few coats or you'll just create deep craters where the grain is. Again this would also take a lot of coats and a lot of sanding, so is not really advisable.

That's good to hear, I was a bit doubtful that the tutorial would be of much use to anyone as wooden bridges on basses aren't exactly common. So I'm glad it may be of use and good luck if you have a go at it.

Thank you

[color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] As I was making a bridge for one of my restoration projects ([url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/254672-16-archtop-guitar-restoration-1938-cromwell-g4-by-gibson-relic/"]see Gibson Cromwell Restoration[/url]) I thought I would outline the process here for anyone wanting to have a go at it. This is for a guitar but the process is easily transferable to bass. In this case I'm having to make one as it's not possible to find a vintage correct one ready made. It's a simple but time consuming process, so if buying one is an option I'd probably recommend going that route! Making a wooden bridge does have an extra advantage though....cost! Even including the thumb wheels and the blank itself (which you may already have) the cost is next to non existent. You'll need a tailpiece for this design, but this can be as simple as string through body ferrules (again mega cheap!) or a simple wooden design. Fortunately I have the original tailpiece for this guitar, so it's not a concern here and we will be focusing only on the bridge. These bridges are adjustable for height though not for intonation however intonation will be pretty damn good if placed correctly. If you're planning on building a similar design for a flat top guitar (perhaps tune o matic equipped) you can skip to step 10 and in step 7 you would mount your posts directly into the top of the guitar. So for those of you who are building on a very tight budget or trying to match something (as I am) or simply make something attractive and unique, here's how you can go about doing it. Here's the blank, from which I will be cutting both pieces of the bridge. It's some rather beautiful Brazilian Rosewood in this case. I have marked it up with the correct dimensions for my bridge, which is actually quite large as you'll soon see![/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/1%20blank.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/1%20blank.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Starting on the bottom part (which will later have the posts inserted) I cut it out on the bandsaw...though a handsaw would be perfectly possible. Then plane it by hand to get it to the correct dimensions.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/2%20planing.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/2%20planing.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] With that done it's time to give the base it's shape. You can skip this step if your guitar or bass has a flat top. As this is an arch top the bottom of the bridge has to match the arch of the top. I rough it out close with files, scrapers and sanding before attached abrasive paper to the guitar top itself. Make sure you mount the paper with low tack masking tape so as not to damage the finish...do not use super strong double sided tape!!! As you can see I also have a side rail (the piece of Ebony) to guide the bridge and keep it straight as it is pushed across the top. This is an old trick used on old stringed instruments when fitting bridges.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/3%20base%20sanding.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/3%20base%20sanding.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Here you can see the arch has now been sanded into the base.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/4%20curve.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/4%20curve.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] This is what you are aiming for, no gaps and the bridge fitting tightly across the whole length of the it.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/5%20curve%20sanded.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/5%20curve%20sanded.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Next we give it the shape, make sure to mark it up before carving anything, so that you get it symmetrical.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/6%20shaping.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/6%20shaping.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Here I'm drilling the posts using a simple template for repeat-ability, you don't want them in a straight line, for correct intonation you want the bass side angled further back by approx 3 mm. As you can see I'm using a drilling template so that I can copy the holes into the top part of the bridge easily afterwards. I use a drill press to ensure the holes run straight[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/7%20a%20drilling%20template.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/7%20a%20drilling%20template.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Now time to tap that ass!...ok sorry. In case that made no sense I'm basically threading (or tapping!) the holes so that I can insert the posts. To do this I chuck the post into a handheld drill making sure to tape off the chucked section so the threads do not get damaged. Then I do it up with the drill until I get approx 12 mm of threaded section above the base. This threads the wood as the post is inserted and I personally find it easier than using an actual tap.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/7%20tapping.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/7%20tapping.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Posts inserted.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/8%20tapped.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/8%20tapped.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Here is the bottom complete with thumb wheels, now onto the top.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/9%20bottom%20complete.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/9%20bottom%20complete.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] The blank for the top, cut from the same piece as the bottom and planed[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/10%20top.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/10%20top.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Here I have drilled for the posts (again using a press) and begun shaping it using the tools seen here.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/11%20shaping%20top%20and%20drilling.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/11%20shaping%20top%20and%20drilling.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Next more shaping, I'm cutting the feat of the bridge for where the wheels will sit. These need to be the same thickness as the wheel, so when the bridge is set to it's lowest position, the base will sit flat against the bottom. It's rough cut with the fret saw before being shaved down with the chisel.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/12%20cutting%20feet.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/12%20cutting%20feet.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Here we go, all finished minus string slotting.[/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/15%20finished%204.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/15%20finished%204.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/13%20finished.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/13%20finished.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/Bridge/14%20finished.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/Bridge/14%20finished.jpg[/IMG][/URL][/size][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=3] Thanks for looking, I hope this tutorial has been useful to someone somewhere [/size][/font][/color]

You want balance in a laminated neck so something like this[b] /l\ [/b]if a three piece,[b] \l/[/b] would also be fine. This is a rough illustration of the end grain when viewed from the heel of the neck blank or headstock end. This principle is basically the same for 5 piece necks too as the thinner laminates shouldn't cause any problems. The idea is to get as close to 1/4 sawn as possible (which would be vertical grain direction: [b]l[/b]) and to counteract movement within the pieces. So you want your central lam to be a close to vertical as possible and the outer ones mirrored.

Thanks very much gents! Yep, it was the plan to wind back the clock to before it got broken rather than to when it was new . Bridge tutorial: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/271393-manton-customs-wooden-guitar-or-bass-bridge-tutorial/

[color=#141823][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=3]Here we are, the finished restoration![/size][/font][/color] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%201.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%201.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%202.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%202.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%203_1.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%203_1.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%204.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%204.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%209.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%209.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20%20Fin%208.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20%20Fin%208.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%205.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%205.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%206.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%206.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%2010.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%2010.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%2011.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/1938%20Cromwell%20by%20Gibson%20G4%20Manton%20Customs%20Fin%2011.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [color=#141823][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][size=3]A final before and after shot.[/size][/font][/color] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/before%20after%20gibson%20finished.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/before%20after%20gibson%20finished.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Thanks all for watching

Thanks guys . In answer to how it sounds...really nice and (perhaps) surprisingly loud! It also plays great with an action height of around 1.5 mm.

[color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]It's been wayyy to long since I updated this, the restoration was completed months ago so here are the final few pictures of the restoration. Then I'll get some decent completed pics up.[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]Anyway, here are some of the now repaired side. You can still see where the damage was, but it's quite an attractive fix maintaing maximum original material and blending in nicely. Though most importantly the guitar is now completely solid and stable.[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]The areas were colour matched with tinted Nitro followed by clear, then buffed out to match the surrounding areas.[/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/C.jpg.html"][/url][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/A.jpg.html"][/url][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/B.jpg.html"][/url][/font][/color] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/D.jpg.html"][/url][/font][/color] [size=4][color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]And for fun a quick before and after shot[/font][/color][/size] [URL=http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/before%20after.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u425/Manton-Customs/before%20after.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [size=4][color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]Next up I made a bridge for it out of Brazilian Rosewood. I took some progress pictures of this and wrote a bit of a tutorial, so if anyones interested in seeing how to make a wooden bridge, I'll put these up.[/font][/color][/size] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=2][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/14%20finished.jpg.html"][/url][/size][/font][/color] [size=4][color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]Slotting the bridge.[/font][/color][/size] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=2][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/IMG_5262.jpg.html"][/url][/size][/font][/color] [size=4][color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,]Now the headstock gets some love, replacing the ill fitting piece of plastic with a well fitted Mother of Pearl inlay, which gives the headstock a touch of class![/font][/color][/size] [color=#141414][font=verdana, geneva, lucida,][size=2][url="http://s1067.photobucket.com/user/Manton-Customs/media/headstock.jpg.html"][/url] [size=4]Next up... finished pictures! Thanks for watching[/size] [/size][/font][/color]

What is the issue with the truss rod? This may be the appropriate fix depending on the issue [url="http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Truss_Rods/Truss_Rod_Rescue_Kit.html"]http://www.stewmac.c...Rescue_Kit.html[/url] If you need a new neck, we can do that for you too . But it wouldn't be cheap being handmade.

There isn't a B profile, the letters (C, U, D, V) refer to the profile (shape of the back) of the neck, so a V will look just like a V a C the letter C and so on. When radius is mentioned it will be referring to the fingerboard, they typically range from 7.5" to 20" but there are of course exceptions such as an "infinite radius"....which is flat and lower than 7" on double basses. The higher the number the flatter the board (so 20" is very flat). Front to back thickness will depend entirely on the individual and a slim neck does not necessarily mean a more comfortable or faster neck. Width is also down to personal preference and will more often than not will range from between 38-42 mm at the nut on 4 string basses.

It looks like something went wrong with the finish in the first place, such as a containment on the wood (like silicone) preventing the finish to adhere. I've too have seen several Ibanez basses (same finish) with the exact same problem in the same area, so perhaps they had a batch or two where they balls up the finish. Why that spot though, I don't know, perhaps it lifted from the edge of the neck pocket. Anyway, careful colour matching with wood dye should get it looking less noticeable, once it has dried you could give it a coat or two of paste wax (Briwax, Liberon etc) to restore a bit of sheen.

You may want to look into veneering a plastic pickguard rather than making the whole thing from wood, it'd be cheaper, easier, you'd have more choice of material and it'd be more stable and strong. The wood you chose would depend on the colour you would like, what are you thinking colour wise?

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1438249142' post='2832833'] I agree on the water issue, it shouldn't be used on a fretboard even on a laquered one. there's a big risk that the frets may start to pull up. I never payed attention to the silicone thing but now i'll start reading the labels before buying. I use this standard product: Searching for this pic i found out that this brand also has this product: I may try it next time. Going off-topic now: @Manton - What happened to that old guitar you were recuperating? I lost the thread and can't find it. I would like to know how it ends up, i was loving your work. Cheers [/quote] Yeah, I wouldn't use that to be honest! It's one of the brands that get mentioned quite a bit on threads like this, I have no doubt it will effectively remove grime though it will leave behind a residue of all kinds of chemicals which is are not good for your fretboard. I believe I have seen it mentioned that it does indeed contain Silicone which is an absolute nightmare as it spreads everywhere and will not come off! The old Gibson Cromwell will be making a return to this area shortly! It's actually all strung up and finished, I'm just waiting for the pickguard to arrive from the US before putting up some finished pics. Prior to that I'll obviously also update the thread with the work which has been carried out since . Thanks for the interest!

[quote name='goonieman' timestamp='1438163306' post='2832130'] On grime - i'd use a slightly roughish dishcloth and soapywater. For truly persistent grime, you could use a green scrubber pad, but you'd need to tidy the wood up afterwards with 800-200 grit. [/quote] Hate to be "this guy" but I've seen you mention using water to clean a fingerboard a few times now and it's really not a good idea. Water can raise the grain of Rosewood and is guaranteed to swell the wood at the fret slots which can lead to all kinds of nasty things. It's not a good idea even on a finished Maple board as it can get under any small chips, nicks or marks and crack the lacquer. Again I really don't want to sound like I'm having ago at anyone and hope you don't mind me advising against it . Staying on topic, Ghost Bass's answer is a good one just make sure your chosen cleaning product has no silicone in it (if it's made for guitars chances are it won't).

[quote name='zawinul' timestamp='1438073009' post='2831299'] Shropshire!! Not too close! Can you recommend anyone down near or in Dorset? Cheers [/quote] Ha, no not close at all! I wasn't after the work myself, just trying to help out a bit . Try Ben at Crimson guitars (http://crimsonguitars.com/), he's in Dorset and I believe he does repairs. It'd probably be somewhere around £100 from someone (like Ben) who knows what they are doing. Perhaps you could get the shop where you bought it from to reimburse?..Or try to!

[quote name='zawinul' timestamp='1438035342' post='2831159'] Ill email Warwick as serial number is on headstock ...see what board is actually made of! Xx [/quote] While that's a good idea to confirm if it was made with fretlines or not, you can rest assured that it is 100% definitely Ebony, I work with it every week . As I mentioned earlier, it would not be an expensive job to have a local luthier restore the board.

Though both would work for pickup routes I'd say full size , it'll do almost everything the palm one will do and most jobs it would do better. I had the Bosch palm one in addition to a couple of full size ones for several years and never took the palm one out the box, so sold it!

I wasn't aware Warwick doesn't make a lined fretless, perhaps it was a custom, or maybe they used to. Or perhaps the lines were retrofitted. It wasn't defretted or there would be obvious marks where the side dots had been filled. Regarding the filler seen in the last picture I have seen[i] plenty[/i] of high end guitars with similar filler in places. It would also be much less visible if the board was oiled...it's sometimes a case of the closer you look the more you see! Though no, it should not be acceptable on a bass of this price, but it does happen! The gaps which have not been filled around the fret slots look very much like movement where either the Ebony or the veneer has shrunk. The cost of restoring the board would be minimal (even with a luthier doing the work!)

What the shop has told you is correct, the wood has shrunk and this shows at the fret lines where over time it has moved. The cause is not going to be sweaty hands though! It's certainly Ebony and I'd put a bet on the fact that the little bits which have been filled were done at the factory when new. The little circle (orangy colour) on your fourth picture is a small knot and nothing to be concerned about. Ebony comes in lots of different grades, some can be surprisingly porous which is probably what the tiny holes you are seeing is. The string wear should have been mentioned in the description, but it's no big deal to fix, neither is repairing the fret line gaps. Any other concerns?

There aren't any real disadvantages to a zero fret other than they can wear surprisingly quickly and replacing one is a little more tricky than replacing a nut. However that still takes a long time to become an issue and getting guaranteed perfect height at the nut is a big advantage for mass produced instruments. If it's from a luthier it's not really an issue as the nut slots will (or should!) be cut to perfect depth anyway. I can see the appeal of adjustable nuts for the person who likes to play about with their setup a lot, but in reality they have no advantage over a non adjustable nut as once a nut is cut correctly you shouldn't need to ever make adjustments other than perhaps width if you change string gauge.