Dood

I went with the 8 battery 12volt version because I knew that rechargeable batteries only supply 1.2v - so, I gain from having two extra batteries in there but 1.2v x 8 = 9.6v. My pedals are getting the power they expect.

There are times when it feels like it is a bit of a pain to plug in power, so I invested in something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-2A-Battery-Box-AA-Battery-Clip-for-8-Batteries-with-DC-Cover-Switch-/291425322546?hash=item43da4d8632:g:biEAAOSw7aBVDQoh You have to make sure you get one with the correct output polarity (or in my case re-solder the power plug cable inside the box) I then bought 8 Panasonic Eneloop rechargeables. I think I managed to do the whole lot for under £20. I now have a stable battery back that I can drop on most pedal boards. It has been a few rehearsals now and I haven't recharged yet! I like that the box also has a power switch. So if this were attached to your board too, then a flick of a master switch will turn everything off. Further more, when it comes to recharge, you won't have to remove a single pedal.

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1469055316' post='3095496'] Try running a cable between the send and return sockets. Those sockets are switched and are a weak point in many amps. [/quote] The Kilo has multiple loops - so it's worth checking them all. From what you are saying Astoroth, it might not be the preamp out/power amp in sockets. Then after that, (if the jumper doesn't fix) have someone (if you're not happy with lifting the lid) check all PCB jumper cables. (remove and reseat). Next up, replace the valves. You needn't go mad on buying the best of the best, but some good quality valves from the likes of Watford Valves will probably improve the sound of the amp too.

Thank you And yes, great pedal. Liked it a lot!!

Any more ideas of straps that allow the body to breathe a bit - but are also nice and wide?

Think I paid about £40 for mine on eBay. Maybe I was lucky lol!

[quote name='Lord Sausage' timestamp='1468999115' post='3094895'] one of them must of realised they are wrong so are staying silent [/quote] They're all on eBay looking for a cheap LS-2!

Just for my future reference: UPC/EAN: [color=#000000][font=roboto, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]609722149648[/font][/color]

You're a star! But yes, you are right - shipping is a killer! - I got in touch with Gotoh a while back as one of the washers on a tuning key had split. No problem, it was 89p for a new one. Shame about the £10 shipping from Japan!! The local (sort of) distributor wouldn't get one in.

They are very similar to computer keyboard button switches from the past, but again, Ive only found versions with short stalks.

Prompted by the thread in General, I am reminded that I need to get a new switch for my Boss LS-2. It's one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOSS-REPLACEMENT-SWITCH-FOR-ALL-BOSS-EFFECT-PEDALS-PEDAL-FX-DELAY-CHORUS-REVERB-/172235592129?hash=item281a0a91c1:g:QiMAAOSwuMFUkNd3 But seriously, thats daft money. I'm pretty sure that these things can be picked up via Farnell / CPC / RS - but I really can't find the manufacturer or a part number to suit so I can spend the couple of quid that they're actually worth ha ha!! Anyone know?

So, Here's the way to do it using a proper LS-2 from Boss. Plug bass A in to RETURN A Plug Bass B in to RETURN B Set the MODE switch to A<>B Plug Your amp in to the pedal OUTPUT. You will need a dummy connector in the INPUT to power the pedal up but this will NOT affect the tone. If the GREEN LED is lit, input A is live and the GREEN knob sets it's level. Input B is muted. If the RED LED is lit, input B is live and the RED knob sets it's level. Input A is muted. You're all very welcome