Dood

[quote name='crez5150' timestamp='1468844468' post='3093681'] Get a contract sorted. We ask for 25% on booking confirmation and the rest paid in full two weeks before the big day. That way the band get paid and fuel covered [/quote] Yup, this. If you're doing function work and are commanding the sort of 'wages' you should from this work then make sure you are covered. If you need contract advice, then join the MU and make use of their extensive resources.

[quote name='hiram.k.hackenbacker' timestamp='1468845000' post='3093692'] Not a particularly accurate method, but close enough for rock'n'roll [/quote] Using a tuner that has trouble picking up open strings, I'd say as an alternative it is indeed very accurate. Whereas fretting the notes at the 12th fret isn't so, depending on instrument and set up.

[quote name='grumpyguts' timestamp='1468791296' post='3093399'] I have an LH500.. Wot is the valve upgrade? [/quote] Have a chat with Watford Valves To be honest, the stock valve is 'OK', but there's quite a range of drive/noise tested valves out there which sound less murky. One of my favourites is a Telefunken clone, the JJ ECC83S. Especially a premium select version - the very best of the batch are Watford Valve's own Harma Str valves - and they are great. The obvious choice of course would be an original Mullard but I've not had the chance to get one in. I do have a NOS GEC 5751 from 1958. Getting geeky it's a MIL/MED spec one which is known for a particularly sweet tone. There are so many premium valves out there and they needn't break the bank. I'd even suggest buying a few and trying them to see what you like! Certainly if you have a noisy preamp then a valve upgrade will help!

[quote name='horrorshowbass' timestamp='1468180412' post='3089091'] Cool look forward to it dood. I guess what I'm asking is it's tuned EADG is there an advantage for fanned frets? Looks like an awesome bass, seriously considering gettin one [/quote] We didn't get to review the NG2-4 in the end but yes there will be an advantage for sure, especially with the right strings on too. I also envisage drop tuning to be improved too. I love knocking my five string down to A. The B string still retains its tone and feels under more control verses a 34" scale (unless you up the string gauge of course!)

Hartke LH (1000W or 500W) are about as simple as it gets yet some are still perplexed over the passive tone stack EQ. Upgrade the valve and you get a stonking amp for no money.

[quote name='EvilSmile' timestamp='1468762657' post='3093145'] Dingwall was my first thought about this too. I'd throw in the ABZ models as with the swamp ash bodies they can be very light, my ABZ 5 is 7.9lbs iirc. The nut is 45.5mm (if the 0.5mm will make a difference). 18mm string spacing, which I like as a nice compromise between narrower 16.5mm and 19mm on a 5 string, and has the most comfortable neck profile of basically every other bass i've played. I've recently had to go through a re-assessment of playing posture, weight distribution of instruments, fretting hand tensions etc. As I found myself suffering from repeated neck strains. So far, during the ~4 months of owning a Dingwall with correct strap setup, playing poster etc., I've had no re-occurring strains or injuries! Before the Dingwall my goto 5 string was a Yamaha BB 425x which was really heavy (as were all the other new yamaha BB's i've played), but I really liked the 18mm spacing and narrow nut. The Dingwall was basically the perfect upgrade, similar spacings and I actually prefer the slightly wider nut. One thing I found that helped with the Yamaha BB was getting a gruv gear Duo strap, so the weight of the bass is distributed over both shoulders. Using it with my Dingwall now, well, I barely feel the weight of the bass when standing up! [/quote] Now you are reminding me why I should keep my Dingwall!!! Absolutely +1 to that. It really is an effortless instrument to play for a 2 hour gig.

I have to be careful how I answer this one as I don't want to get in to trouble for advertising. However, depending on your budget, I would definitely recommend Dingwall basses. Especially the AB1. Mine weighs in at just 8lbs and has a very slim nut. Furthermore, one of the most important bits is that it balances perfectly on the leg. There is no headstock dive at all. Which means that when on the strap, there's no pulling on the shoulder either - which of course makes the bass feel much lighter too. Nice slim nut!

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1468707950' post='3092863'] I think they also made these in Mexico? Or am I thinking the Japan lyte and then the next version! Or is this that version. I'm confused now [/quote] The original 80's Jazz Bass Special and active Power Jazz Bass Specials were both made in Japan only. I think the Lyte and JP90 were also Japanese. The Jazz Bass Special (albeit with a slightly more P bass neck) is the model that Duff McKagan used for many years. Fender eventually and more recently made a signature model and that indeed is made in Mexico now. Only in that opaque white though. The original special's came in white, red, black, silver and I've even seen a couple which are a sort of ummm.. Aqua-light blue!

Oooh and Japanese Fender Jazz Bass Special. lovely

Yes, latency is a problem for Bluetooth. 30ms mentioned in that article would drive me insane! Most multi-effects units of the digital variety are around 4ms.

[quote name='dood' timestamp='1212609431' post='212747'] I have no idea how much mine would have cost, if I hadn't been Jon Shuker's rent boy for 3 years. [/quote] Blimey! Did I really say this?? Lol! I've had my 7 string for pretty much ten years now and I had a Shuker Elite 6 before then and I'm still a proud Shuker player. Speaking of prices though, it boggles me that you can get a bass made by Shuker and it will be as good as some twice the price. So I suspect in terms of cash alone, one won't be 'the most expensive bass on BassChat!'

[quote name='51m0n' timestamp='1468520679' post='3091555'] Nah mate Bobby definitely is not Alex and definitely is his right hand man at BF. Fine chap he is too [/quote] Bit late for the explanation by the looks of it.

Thank you!

Anyone tried one? Experiences? I'm looking at 4" wide bass straps to take care of my 7 string. I've got my eye on one or two different offerings but this one just came up on my radar.

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1468392705' post='3090560'] It's not quite true that PA speakers aren't designed to do bass. the better ones are. They are expected to have both the bass and kick drums running through them and at similar volumes, maybe louder than the backline. What you can't expect is something to do the job for £200. Let's say the competition is between a conventional lightweight setup and and a PA speaker. If you went the Markbass/Barefaced route You'd end up paying £900 ish. Part of this is because you are paying for something optimised for bass and part of this is because anything bass is automatically a bit specialised and made in smaller production runs. So, the better comparison would be with something like QSC or RCF. The RCF ART712 might be a better comparison at about £500. Add in a bass pre amp and you are talking £6-700. There's a small saving because the PA speaker is more of a mass produced product and you have a much better tweeter and crossover than most bass gear. In this case the 12" driver is designed to handle bass. What you lose is having a sound deliberately coloured to flatter your bass, though you may be able to eq some of that back in. I started out using PA speakers for my bass. It works no problem, in fact I personally liked the hi-fi sound and I'm toying with the idea of using them again. Fundamentally though you can't have cheap, light and loud all at the same time, what you are suggesting is do-able but you'll need to invest. If there is a PMT near you then you could probably try your bass through the PA speakers. [/quote] I was referring to the type the OP was particularly asking about in my response. Yes, I know that PA cabs can do bass!