Marc S

Having regretted selling my Squier CV P bass in Fiesta Red and having thought about getting one again, on an almost daily basis I broke my own one-in-one-out rule and bought another, identical one secondhand, from a local Facebook gear for sale forum Since selling the last one, I bought a rather nice USA P bass from Old Horse Murphy on this fine forum and I really have been converted back to P basses since then Comparing the CV P bass, with the US There really isn't much in it, in terms of quality of build, comfort, playability and sound The US P feels slightly lighter - although I've not backed this up by weighing the 2 basses and the pickup on the US bass has a slightly louder pickup, with a little more "grunt" EDIT: But I'd stress there really isn't very much in it.... And having paid only around a third of the cost of the 2nd hand US bass for the 2nd hand China made CV bass The quality of the Squier is absolutely staggering! I tried a secondhand Matt Freeman in the meantime too, and was equally impressed by that But I just had to go for the 60's Fiesta Red P again.... I think these could be future classics, regarded in similar vein to the early Japan built "JV" Squiers The nut on my Squier feels pretty tough - no issues so far, on either that I've owned PS. I'm now lusting after the CV Jazz, with maple board & block inlays ..... oh no!

Yes, definitely the spacing at the bridge is most important for me I used to prefer much slimmer necks (mostly when playing with a pick) But found I couldn't dig in so well, when playing finger style So string spacing at the bridge is important to me... In my 1st spell of playing (many years back) I owned a 70's Precision Which had a chunky neck, at the nut end. This tended to make my left hand tired (aside from which, the bass itself was v heavy) So I moved towards slimmer necks, notably on Ibanez basses.... Nowadays, playing more & more finger-style, I much prefer wider spacing at the bridge and I suppose the spacing at the nut at least gives you an indication of taper Again, this can be important for the left hand, when you play down the bottom end quite a bit That early 70's P put me off Fenders for a long time ... until I discovered the neck on my RW Jazz As well as being an awesome neck that somehow feels very aged and worn-in It's got ideal (for me) string spacing at the bridge and a nice taper at the nut, for maximum comfort for my left hand.... I guess if the specs mention spacing at the bridge, it should also quote spacing at the nut too.....

[quote name='Old Horse Murphy' timestamp='1439289119' post='2841514'] I have a copy that was given to me by John Entwistle, who in turn had been given it by Sting. Unfortunately I can't prove this but it's 100% true. I'm willing to let it got to a Basschat member for £600 inc postage [/quote] I'm willing to pay you a ten pound note, that was given to me by Eric Clapton, who had apparently been given it by Bruce Springsteen who had won it on a scratchcard which Bono had found at Buckingham Palace....

[quote name='skidder652003' timestamp='1439211140' post='2840844'] PS already got a Precision, it sounds loads better but got a big fat neck so crap for gigging right? [/quote] I used to have an older P, which was heavy as hell, and had a really chunky neck In fact, it was this bass that put me off Fenders altogether, until I discovered my RW Jazz, of course... I've now got a newer USA P, and a Squier Classic Vibe P, which have both got slimmer, shallower necks They're much more comfortable to play than that old US P So sort the grounding issue on your Jazz, Then sell your P bass, and get a Squier CV P bass - and pocket some cash too

Sounds like a grounding issue to me Not that I'm an expert... Good luck sorting it.....

Don't forget Markbass stuff is lightweight too I use a 2 x 10 combo, and extension cab or just the 210 for smaller gigs I used to have a Markbass 1x 15 cab, which packed a real punch too Plenty of options of 2x 10, 1x 12 or 1 x15.... or a combination of 2 of these.... Keep your eye on the for sale section on here Good luck with your search

Difficult to tell from those photos alone Any signs of a serial number anywhere? If you have doubts, then don't trade But you should also ask yourself how the bass plays, feels & sounds.... Try looking for photos of other 76 P basses online, and compare things like the font of the text, position & so on... Also, pics of the body etc might help others make a judgement Good luck whatever you decide Marc

I usually get my strings from A-Strings near Pontypridd in South Wales I hear their online prices are pretty good (in fact, they started with an on-line only shop in Cardiff) But as I live quite close by, and their in-shop prices a great, I pop by and buy them over the counter ... and they always kindly offer me tea or coffee too

[quote name='ljbass' timestamp='1437724941' post='2828460'] I´ve owned Stagg EUB and if I buy it again I´ll check the fingerboard first. You can easily fix almost all issues with electronics, endpin an such things, but if the fingerboard (the laquered one, not the rosewood one!) is not plain, you´ll end with lot of buzzing and madly high string action. The truss rod is not working a lot. IMO the repair is not worth the instrument (pretty soft wood under the neck laquer...). [/quote] More good advice Though I have to say, on mine, the finish on the fingerboard did seem to be really tough There wasn't a mark on it when I bought it, and after all the transporting about, and the playing - there wasn't a mark on it when I sold it But as ljbass says, check it over for wear & cracks etc I'm sure it'll be fine, unless it's been abused....

I'd say the above advice is a great start On my old Stagg, the dot position markers were not quite right But that's fixed easily enough A little dab of modellers acrylic black paint, to cover the old ones and some stick-on fluorescent types to replace (if any are out of position) On mine it was at the bottom end of the neck - I placed one in the "F" position The electrics on mine seemed fine Maybe just check the headphone socket, and the input socket are both working - plus check the pots The input socket is handy, for jamming along with MP3's But the most important aspect for me was changing the strings They were awful strings on the original! I knew nothing about DB strings, and initially found the choice was mind-boggling much more so than Bass Guitar... So maybe check if the owner knows whether they've been changed Some better quality, lower tension strings improved playability hugely for me Other than that - check for the usual obvious signs of cracks/ wear & tear around the body / neck joint Though that's not a particular problem with Stagg EUB's as far as I'm aware. If it's a good price, and condition seems fine - just go for it You won't regret it. A Stagg EUB was my first foray into the world of DB They're cheap, they're well worth the 2nd hand value, as you'd get your money back And they're pretty good instruments Best of luck PS. Let us know how you get on

Bit of a trek for me too (Cardiff) But I'd be really interested in something like this - just as an experiment, and to see what happens..... Particularly if a mix of DB / EUB and U-bass / Bass guitar and some effects were used.... Good luck with your search, and please let us know how you get on Nice video Camden Rob I somehow can't quite get the hang of switching a looper at the right point - it always goes wrong somehow Cheers Marc PS. I'm also interested as to whether there will be complaints along the lines of; "That lead-bassist, he's always drowning me out!" lol

I had a CV P bass, in Fiesta red, and I foolishly sold it They have obviously been discontinued now, as there aren't any more in the shops near me Perhaps they were indeed, selling better than the Mex Fender range I played a couple of both Mex and China made CV basses, and the CV's won hands down IMO Or maybe they think they've sold as many as they can in those designs / colours and are planning another series? A few come up, second-hand, but they seem to sell very quickly I think they will indeed become future classics - they are just top-notch quality and feel great to play, while sounding fab too... Think I want to trace down another CV P in Fiesta Red, ..... and this time keep it Good luck with your search I saw that one for sale on here - go for it

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1437551840' post='2826900'] Once he`s gone through his warm up for 10mins or so, walk over to his amp, switch it off and say "my turn" very loudly, with a smile on your face. Hopefully, as you`re good mates, he`ll get the humour - you could even make it a regular part of the weekly practice. [/quote] +1 for this idea Yes, it's often a problem with guitarists & drummers I'd say you should always warm up, even before rehearsal Do some scales or just move finger by finger, up & down the fretboard Can you hear yourself at gigs? Or is he constantly drowning you out? Best of luck!