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Marc S

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Everything posted by Marc S

  1. Really nice looking bass Yes, very distinctive colour. I think I'd leave the pickguard alone White contrasts nicely with the pink body of the bass Squier VM's are great quality for the money Hmm, second thoughts - maybe a red tort pickguard?
  2. [quote name='Grahambythesea' timestamp='1443546019' post='2875720'] I think we have technology to thank for this phenomenon! As commented above Fenders were designed to be mass produced but years ago "cheapies" were hacked out in dreadful factories by unskilled workers, but now computers can do much of the work so a factory in a developing world with low cost labour can make just as good an instrument as a skilled craftsman in the western world provided they a careful not to skimp on the quality of the materials....... [/quote] Yes, I agree. The quality of the new CV Squiers for instance is just brilliant Although I have to say, back in the 70's and early 80's there were some awful instruments out there But there were also some really well made ones too (I'd put my Shaftesbury alongside any Rick, and challenge you to pick the better bass!) Re the OP question. I just did a re-build based on a MIJ P bass copy (see my thread in build diaries) It took me an afternoon and a couple of hours tweaking the following day, but I ended up with a roadworn P bass copy, that sounds & looks great I took to to 2 rehearsals and an open mic, and even the rest of the band thought it was great However, I have too many basses already - so I decided to sell it on Because, I could foresee me taking that bass out for gigs at certain pub venues So it is / was a cheap "old dog" that sounds, looks & plays nicely, and I'd keep going back to it, if I didn't need to sell.... (the body, complete with electrics cost me £20 - I flogged the tuning keys from the old split neck for £15 - so the body only cost me a fiver! the replacement neck cost me £35 I think - new jack socket was about £3 Total cost = £43 - happy days )
  3. Oops, that pic of the 2 necks didn't seem to upload at first attempt EDIT: The one I used on this bass being the bottom neck The ex Squier VM neck (top) I had removed the Squier logo myself I wanted to have a go at replacing it, to see just how convincing I could get a F*nder logo to look... and I would definitely have left the Squier logo on the back I really dislike people trying to pass off copies as "the real thing" (you can easily see the logos on this one are fake) So I might now consider another logo - which says "Faker" Precision, or something similar for my next project I also have a MIJ Jazz copy (which may have been a Columbus) that I also intend to rebuild I had these bits lying around in my garage, unused for several months and it's thanks to seeing excellent build projects by people on here, like Rumple that has inspired me to put this together
  4. The 2 necks I had a choice of fitting One being the 2nd hand one I bought at a very reasonable cost (with dodgy decal) The other being from a Squier VM P/J which I converted to fretless <a href="http://imgur.com/8brT37p"><img src="http://i.imgur.com/8brT37p.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a> And the completed bass The neck pocket took a bit of tweaking (widening) to allow the new neck to fit And since these initial photos, I've also lowered the action I didn't like the bridge saddle screws protruding so much - so out came the dremmel again and now they sit nicely - although, as I mentioned, the bridge saddles are very low to the base of the BBOT bridge I did a full band rehearsal with it, and played an open mic and I was really pleased with it. It certainly sounded every inch a P bass The rest of the band thought it looked & sounded great One problem though - I never intended to keep this bass, and I got a bit attached to it As I already have way too many basses, I decided to sell it. So advertised it on a local facebook group and it sold in a few hours! Since then, I've had further enquiries about it too Perhaps I underpriced it? Cheers all
  5. The neck pocket. Which had no useful stamp or info in it... Made in Japan neck plate Imgur seems to be working faultlessly this morning
  6. Here's some pics of the bass, as I picked it up And that split in the neck!
  7. [quote name='Stylon Pilson' timestamp='1444058389' post='2879920'] What in the blazes is going on with your line breaks. S.P. [/quote] I'm typing it so it's not just one massive block of text (which is often difficult to read, of course) It's fairly standard practice ... unless of course, there's something awry with your computer, or your screen resolution set-up? EDIT: I'm trying to upload pics, using Imgur as I'd successfully done this previously However, today it doesn't seem to be working atm I played an open mic with the bass last night, and you know what I quite liked it. I had thought I'd just move this bass on, after completion But I'm now liking the bass quite a lot I thought about a neck shim Rumple But I don't really like seeing a shim, for some reason It would be quite visible, methinks Were it invisible, I'd have no problem I'll try uploading those pics again tomorrow
  8. As the title suggests, this isn't really a "build diary" as such I had a few bits & pieces knocking around, as I'd thought about repairing / re-building an old bass (or two!) Since getting my Roadworn Fender Jazz a while back, I have discovered the merits of playing gigs with a bass that you aren't too precious about! I've gigged mint, expensive basses in the past, and almost had a heart attack everytime someone knocks a cymbal stand over, or snags their foot on a lead while setting up - resulting in something almost getting knocked over Or even those situations where, you're gigging in a rough & ready pub..... and you never know Anyhow, I'd picked up an old Japan built P bass I think it's a Matsumoko factory bass - it had the typical neck plate of such a bass, The guy I bought it from also had had it for years He's a guitarist, and bought it years back, as a bass for open mic nights he runs, and some recordings He's a very trustworthy bloke, in general and his history of the bass suggested it was either from the late 70's or early 80's It had taken a bad knock & fall, and a split opened up in the neck, along the junction between neck & fretboard He continued to play it for a while, until it felt like someone might get a splinter from playing it! Anyhow, I really liked the colour, grain & general look of the body - so I bought it - As I said it was cheap... I later came across a neck, which was also going cheap The local guy had bought it to do a build / repair job but he couldn't get the bass set up right, and really struggled with it He'd put a not very good Fender transfer logo on and he'd also slightly split the varnish finish, and taken a small piece out near one of the tuners I suspect he'd tried to rush the fitting of the tuning keys He'd certainly rushed the varnish job, over the decals Having removed the old neck, I discovered no useful date stamps or info in the neck pocket and the new neck was very slightly too wide to fit the body I thought a while about how I could neatly trim the pocket, to fit the neck In a moment of inspiration (and this may horrify some people!) I opted to try widening the pocket with my Dremmel drill - remember, it had all been acquired fairly cheaply so far so no great loss, if I messed it up... The dremmelling proved quite successful - but I would caution anyone doing this, to protect the body of the bass with some gaffer tape, to protect paintwork... Working gradually, I checked the neck until it fitted the pocket neatly. Length of the pocket had to be altered too and I'd spotted that the original neck hadn't quite fitted perfectly here There was a small gap at the back of the neck, but the scratchplate had hidden this Anyhow, after a little tweaking - I got the neck to fit pretty well Although, it's not as "thick" or "deep" as the original - so it sits lower down in the body and the bridge has had to be set very low, to get the action down All in all though, with a bit of tweaking and fiddling, and just a few hours work I have a bass that looks nice, sounds great and am fairly satisfied with It needed a new jack socket (about 3 quid) and I was amazed at how good it sounds amplified The pickup is really quite good, and it sounds a lot like a P bass should Pics later
  9. [quote name='4 Strings' timestamp='1443129025' post='2872575'] .....Also, that G string position away from the edge would bug me also. The older Fenders used to have multiple grooved string saddles. I wonder if you managed to get one as a spare part (or even all four) you could space the strings as you pleased. [url="https://www.allparts.com/BB-0355-001-Vintage-Bass-Bridge_p_590.html"]https://www.allparts...idge_p_590.html[/url] for example [/quote] Doesn't bug me, I must say - and I thought I was a bit OCD lol Yes, those multi-grooved bridge saddles are good I have one on my RW Jazz, and it does allow you to shift the position of the strings a bit You can get them - I've seen them on ebay - bit pricey mind and from the States. So maybe you can find a supplier in the UK? One came up for sale in the UK on ebay recently and I almost bought it to fit to another bass - wish I had now
  10. [quote name='Shonks' timestamp='1443469904' post='2875069'] hi, what is this exactly? usa? jap? reissue? have i missed something? [/quote] As others have said, these are indeed built in Mexico But they are made on a separate line to the usual Mex built Fenders The parts used are better quality, and they are then shipped back to the US for finishing, so I am led to believe I've played a few Mex built Fenders, and they range from pretty good, to excellent These Roadworn series are something else though! I have the more commonly seen Sunburst RW Fender Jazz and I must say, it's the best bass guitar I've ever played They look, sound and feel every inch like the real deal - I kid you not I don't know how they've managed it, but the neck feels so comfortable and well-played like it really has been used for years & years If I didn't already have my sunburst one - I'd have this in a shot In fact, I'm tempted anyway! Lol I know some people scorn "pre reliced" guitars and basses but IMHO, there's nothing better to gig with, than something which doesn't matter if it picks up another ding It's so liberating to gig one of these, rather than your mint condition, shiny new guitar Bump for a fabulous bass - sorry to almost hijack your thread but to anyone considering this bass - just buy it now! I can't eulogise about these basses enough ..... and you'll stop me thinking about getting another bass I really don't need
  11. [quote name='3below' timestamp='1443556080' post='2875810'] +1 very thin superglue. The brute force repair additional method would also involve inserting a screw from the G side, pulling the two parts together. Not elegant but effective. Body looks nice grain from front. [/quote] Another neat idea! This may be considered a bit more "brute force" but could work well A neat method would be to drill a pilot hole for the screw, then a slightly wider, shallower hole to countersink the screw.... Once everything was in place, and glue has had time to set you could then fill the countersunk space with some sawdust and PVA, or suitably coloured wood filler
  12. [quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1443505644' post='2875251'] Good points here guys. Maybe I can wangle a scalpel blade or pin into the cracks enough to get some superglue down there. I'd certainly like to stabilise it. [/quote] Yes, this was my thought too A very thin superglue would run into that split But obviously, be careful where thin superglue can run / spill onto EDIT: I'm thinking, your hands, clothes, the dining room carpet etc, as much as somewhere else on the guitar... I think it'd be worthwhile getting some glue in there, and once it has dried, putting some sort of pin in there As you say, from the bottom (G string side) A wooden dowel may give you the best bond, with a strong PVA type glue But it might also mean you have to drill a wider hole, which may also weaken the "broken" piece So maybe try a narrow dowel, or even a metal rod of some sort... perhaps even 2 pins / dowels for added strength I'd say this is worth a bash at repairing At least it gives you chance to try some repair techniques, and there's no huge loss if it doesn't quite work out You could always pick up another 2nd hand neck from somewhere Good luck with it, and let us know how you get on
  13. [quote name='dave_bass5' timestamp='1443104395' post='2872250'] This looks gorgeous, especially the neck. Ive gone back and forth between P bass for the past 12 years. Sometimes i find them boring but i also love the simplicity of them. If they came with jazz size necks as standard (i mean all, know a few do) id have a lot more basses than i need. [/quote] I went off Fender P's for years And around a year or so I came back to them Far from being boring, I think it's a plain & simple classic style, and classic sound and the controls are simple too. I've had many basses over the years and I like the fact that the controls on the bass are simple Do the EQ tweaking on the amp When you're playing live, it's so easy to tweak the wrong switch or control when you're mid-set (or even mid song!) For me, the slimmer P necks of recent years has brought me back to re-discover the P bass My Squier CV 60's P is fab, my US P is fab I'm so glad I came back to the P bass I've come full circle too - but I think I've learned a bit from my experimenting.... When you find a P you like - you know you've got a good bass Welcome back
  14. I thought was cured of GAS. I have every bass I could ever want / need - too many really I GASsed after a Squier CV 70's P as a workaday bass for pubs (saving my near mint US P) .... and then I stumbled across wateroftyne's Maruszczyk bass It's just stunning, lovely colour/ pickguard colour, lovely neck - binding & blocks great pickup arrangement in P/J fashion, and it's very lightweight.... And I now have more GAS than ever lol
  15. [quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1443006732' post='2871327'] This is why I went down the Maruszczyk route. Fender CS / US Lakland quality, and bespoke, for MIM money. [/quote] I thought I was nearly cured of GAS But this has given me added GAS This is one of the finest basses I have ever seen Simply stunning.... It's got everything, and looks perfect in every way..... want....
  16. Thanks for the link to this thread wateroftyne I can't believe just how stunning that bass of yours is It has everything, it's a P with PJ pickups a stunning block inlaid neck, great colour, great colour pickguard sounds fab too I wish I could give one of these a try... Anyone in / near South Wales got one of these? pretty please? lol Cheers Marc
  17. [quote name='DanEly' timestamp='1443008953' post='2871358'] I use these "demon" buttons. Not the Ashdown sub one but the Ampeg Ultra Low (on occasions) and the Aguilar Low switch. I really like the depth it can give sometimes. [/quote] Yes, I used an Ashdown in a rehearsal room a few years back Didn't like the Sub button on that But I had an Ampeg head with low button - and that sounded pretty good On several occasions, it even sounded great But again, depending on the room / venue, sometimes it just added rumbling noise...
  18. Not a real "cheapo" but second-hand, they're not too pricey I had a Squier Classic Vibe 60's P bass, in Fiesta Red Loved it, but GAS got the better of me, and I sold it, to get a USA P bass The US bass is lovely - but not that much better than the Squier I really missed the Squier, and when one came up 2nd hand locally I just had to get one again. It's a great backup and I'm not so precious about taking it to pubs, whereas, my near mint US P, I'm over protective of..... Although Squier CV's aren't truly "cheapo's" they're cheap compared to the US basses they're copies of
  19. Another +1 for Bartolini pickups here For inexpensive, passive pickups, try Entwistles Not sure if they do any 5 string types - but their P bass passive pups are superb, punchy, and really reasonably priced.....
  20. It's a nice colour, I have to say... GLWTS
  21. Nice colour combo - definitely And don't worry - you don't have to justify your tastes It's your bass, and if you like it, that's all that's needed ... but looks like I'll like it too - of course, I also have my own favourite actresses with red hair & pale skin Now for the waiting bit..... Patience, patience Cheers, and post some pics on NBD - if you can put it down long enough to take some pics, that is....
  22. Lovely colour Looks a stunning bass What's it strung with atm? the original strings it came with, I assume? Have a free bump
  23. [quote name='Twigman' timestamp='1442928476' post='2870615'] Didn't Sid Viscious have a 70s Olympic White P ? [/quote] I think it must have been a 70's Olympic White P, along with Paul Simonen of the Clash, and DeeDee Ramone ... unless they were bought 2nd hand, and were very late 60's P basses? But DeeDee is rumoured to have had several basses over the years So some of them must have been 70's models Cracking shot of Norman Watt-Roy above Great looking creamy colour on that P bass too
  24. Depends on the venue really Sometimes it can help add greater depth to the sound But I agree, yes, it is often over-used and can cause a lot of boom, making distinction between low notes difficult Part of the problem, is that the button is there, so some will just use it regardless - thinking it boosts volume and partly, the problem with bass is that you can't really hear it too clearly when you're right in front of, or next to it So it the audience near the back who get the full blast / effect Mostly, audiences can't distinguish why something sounds boomy or where the problem emanates from.....
  25. This looks a real bargain, for a rather nice looking P bass - US built as well ;o GLWTS
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