Twincam

Really speaking whatever you use it should be used max twice a year. Really only once a year. There is possibly the risk when using lemon oil that it actually dries out quicker and your board becomes a slave to it. Much like in the old days they would use certain oils mink oil also petroleum products on leather belt on gramophones etc, this actually dries out quicker and it takes natural locked in moisture away so they would have to be oiled a lot more often then eventually the product started to break down the leather. Now wood will be more durable of course. But for me, for science sake only boiled linseed should be used. With linseed after a coat it actually gives the finish a tiny amount more durability due to it hardening. Anyhow what happens if you over oil, is you attract more "gunk" into the fret slots and you get much more contracting back and forth of the wood. So you can get fret issues.

[quote name='luckydog' timestamp='1465898605' post='3071893'] Making the leap of faith that the power section is class D and the PSU is switch mode, it's possible that the PSU remains ticking over whenever connected to the mains, and the power button is really a soft start. In which case, yes there could be a trace of residual noise in standby mode (off), or the noise could be the PSU itself 'cycle skipping' in low power (standby) mode ? HTH ! LD [/quote] Nope valve pre and class a/b power section. But I see where your coming from. Oddly with a new cab it does not do it. Seems fine anyhow. Wonder if I should put a multimeter on the speaker cable, with the amp off see if anything is coming through?

[quote name='luckydog' timestamp='1465897588' post='3071883'] The component that fell from the crossover was the series resistor limiting power to the hf unit. The 'thick' wavy line on the 'scope could well be due to high frequency oscillation, perhaps too high to hear even, and that fits with damage to that resistor and the amp lacking power/shutting down/blowing fuses. Seems there is a fault in the amp causing it to oscillate at high frequency. With these clues, a competent technician should be able to readily trace and fix it. However, it's not really a DIY repair, and the fault is likely to be deep within the electronics of the amp, and is perhaps an interaction with those speakers. In the meantime, hooking it up to different speakers risks damaging them, so that seems a bad idea. Best to take the amp and the speakers that demonstrate the problem in for repair. HTH ! LD [/quote] I do agree. Although I would still be tempted to hook it up to a working cab at low volume to see what the crack is. If it's bad then power off right away and take it to a tech. Seems this guy you taken it too might not know that much about the more modern amps??? How old is the amp? these can't be that old. I thought they only realised it within the last few recent years.

[quote name='Sparky Mark' timestamp='1465601466' post='3069656'] One feature of this amp that I don't think has been commented on yet is the absence of surface mounted components. From WOT's thread photos the PCBs all appear to be hand soldered through hole construction which are a whole lot easier to service and repair than high density SMT. If I didn't already own a shed full of heads I would have one on order as they are in a different class to the easy to produce, almost impossible to repair units that now prevail. HB have certainly put a great deal of effort into the aesthetics of their amps which I really like and it will be interesting to see if they continue to offer the variety of cosmetic and casing options once they become more established. [/quote] I commented on wateroftynes post that the insides seemed well thought out or better than many others. Also non cluttered, proper through hole components. Should be more reliable and easier to work on. I'm not an expert but with common sense and some knowledge you can still see which amps have a good design and the ones which have design faults or traits likely to cause difficult service. These amps seemed to be good. Many amps are let down be very cramped surface mounted boards designed to be made as quick as possible and throw in maybe one or two silly design traits. Mainly all due to cost cutting and sometimes lack of forethought. And with the bigger companies it really is sometimes about the margins. Not saying all surface mounted, complex and often cluttered pcb gear is bad.

[quote name='highwayone' timestamp='1465896891' post='3071872'] No I haven't. The amp went off at rehearsal last night and I assumed it wouldn't 'fire' up again . [/quote] Well let us know the score with another cab. Check the fuses are good and the right ratings first.

[quote name='highwayone' timestamp='1465893781' post='3071834'] It was connected up to two cabs when it happened, both abm210t. Would this issue with the crossover still have happened? Thanks. [/quote] I'm not an expert in this area but possibly if a crossover malfunction happened, which it looks like it did badly (resistor dropped out!) then it's possible that could of effected how the amp sees the load etc and made it shut down or possibly cause other issues. Despite another cab being attached. This would be my theory since there is evidence of that. Have you tried the amp with another cab or the one with the working crossover? Too add those abm cabs are not put together well. There not glued enough and there build design and quality is just a bit poor. The mag series are seemingly put together much better but with lesser quality materials, but they are stronger cabs. I've had a few abm cabs and seeing your inner pics brought it all back. The fact a resistor dropped out is also not a good sign. I have a mag cab currently it's not as light and arguably doesn't sound as good but it's solid. I'm not an Ashdown hater but the abm cabs should be better. And while I'm having a rant the power section of the abm amp series (up until the new class d evo 4) is of bad design too! They sound good but the design makes them prone to fail. Anyhow let us know if the head works with another cab. Likely it's ok. Check the old guy hasn't put wrong fuses in. No matter what they should be of the correct rating!

This is possibly the crossover, as that resistor should be on the board. Just so happens I have a working crossover over for that cab you may have for Free! Minus the postage costs. Although if you can live without the tweeter just take the cross over circuit out and don't wire the tweeter up but keep it in place. The bass man 500 is the one with the valve pre amp and class d power section from the Rumble 500. I would check the fuses and try with another cab. If it works it's the cross over from your cab. Replace or repair (as said I have one you may have) possible that it's just the resistor failure. If the amp doesn't work with another cab then check the valve(s).

[quote name='Roger2611' timestamp='1465750820' post='3070714'] The Voldermort of guitar improvements, a true legend [/quote] Hmm I fix guitars. I wear glasses and have a scar down my face. And I have a bit of a dislike to this guy's practices. That makes me the Harry Potter of guitar improvements lol.

[quote name='Gunsfreddy2003' timestamp='1465760767' post='3070822'] I have opened up the amp and can't seem to see any fuses on the PCB - happy to be enlightened if anyone can see something that I am missing on the pic! Where are the power supply capacitors that I need to wary of? [/quote] The caps are the black can looking things and smaller blue ones. But keep away from the large ones. Is it me or does the resistor between the heatsinks look a little burnt on the board?? Since you didn't know which were the capacitors then I advise you fasten it back up take it too a tech as you really can get hurt.

Some great amp guts pics. Very interesting too see. I have a few I need to dig out or take a pic off. This is my recent bugera bvp5500 purchase. I've had a good look in there and was actually very impressed. Looks a fairly clean design. All soldered very well it seems. Huge heatsink. I'm liking the valve clamping system. Loosely based and the ampeg svt 3 pro. One design issue I don't like is the fuse is really close to the lid. It shouldn't touch and the lid does have an adhesive non conductive patch as a fail safe, but still I think it should of been slightly lower on the circuit board. Excellent price to quality/tone ratio. [URL=http://s330.photobucket.com/user/Twincam2008/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160611_155640_zpscufrsdwx.jpg.html][IMG]http://i330.photobucket.com/albums/l415/Twincam2008/Mobile%20Uploads/20160611_155640_zpscufrsdwx.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s330.photobucket.com/user/Twincam2008/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160611_155656_zpsk8vgyqyr.jpg.html][IMG]http://i330.photobucket.com/albums/l415/Twincam2008/Mobile%20Uploads/20160611_155656_zpsk8vgyqyr.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s330.photobucket.com/user/Twincam2008/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160611_155646_zpssbi90irp.jpg.html][IMG]http://i330.photobucket.com/albums/l415/Twincam2008/Mobile%20Uploads/20160611_155646_zpssbi90irp.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[quote name='luckydog' timestamp='1465630691' post='3069712'] Yes TC and others are right about the neck shim, and a little goes a long way . Best to estimate first what neck angle you need to end up with. Set the saddle at 'sensible' height and check for how much angle the neck needs packing. Angle pulls out a bit under tension, BTW, that's normal. Once the neck angle is correct, adjust the saddle height so that notes above the 12th fret just don't buzz. Adjust truss rod (carefully!) so that notes around 3rd-5th frets don't buzz. Finally, set the nut height so that open strings don't buzz and the open string action is where you like it - this means filing away at the nut groove and is a one-way trip, so be conservative - the nut height ultimately sets the open string action. Lastly, recheck saddle height by confirming 12th fret + doesn't buzz, adjust as nec. This what I do anyways, and hope this makes sense and helps ! LD [/quote] This will work but that's not the best way to do it or set up a bass or any guitar. I've written a detailed but ultra easy beginners no special tools needed setup guide if the op is interested. And it uses common household tools etc of a known measurement to get the correct. Although I recommend spending money on luthiers tools but using tools/objects of known precise measurements can do a very accurate job too. And nut height should not just be setup where the open strings just don't buzz, as this way you can lower it too much and create a back clanking of strings behind the fretted note where the strings lay on the frets. Granted this is unamped but sounds horrible and feels wrong as the strings slap multiple frets from the nut too fretted note. Easy way to set Nut height is with the string fretted at the third fret, you should have a paper widths gap from the top of the first fret too the string.

I really like the fender 5250xl typically used on the mustang bass, however there not the brightest strings but there ok and they seem to be ok at lasting. Nice tension and feel.

[quote name='Hobbayne' timestamp='1465726708' post='3070470'] IBTL [/quote] Haven't mentioned his name which is a no no.

[quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1465733201' post='3070545'] My Burman MPA SL100. Pics are just of the SL power pack. Guts.. Top.. If this is not the most sexy brutal steam punk transformer, I don't know what is!... [/quote] Love the burman transformers.

Via the pu cavity David

Think it's time for this thread to come alive again. I have a few pics nothing too exciting. Will upload later on. Hopefully the thread will get some more posters, although the gear porn section isn't the most visited area.

Oh I'm loving this I hope it's actually under some lacquer. From the guy I honestly think rips people off. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/P-bass-neck-for-project-bass-guitar-/191890138160?hash=item2cad8b2430:g:SSYAAOSw9eVXVXeC

An insomnia question. Was wondering if drivers have a lifespan. Say a speaker is used often and at higher volumes but not abused and not kept in a damaging atmosphere. I assume after initial wear in, that there is still a very slow mechanical wear rate but can they actually just wear out through normal playing that's within there specs/ratings? Anyone still using a really old speaker regular?

Just want to say 50 is not old and I'm saying that in my early(ish) 30s. It's 70 when your an old git lol. Mind you the way some act on here you would think At 40 you instantly become a right old so and so haha.

That is a beautiful amp. Would love one.

So I've noticed when my amp is off at the amp switch but still on at the plug socket, if I put my ear right up to the speaker I can hear some noise a slight hiss, as said it's very very faint almost inaudible. The amp seemingly works great. When the plug socket is off no noise. It seems odd that possibly some parts of the amp are getting power even if the amp switch is off? Surely it would switch off the power completely. Or is this maybe interference from the mains being somehow amplified by the off amp. I'm tempted to open it up check the switch is ok and how it's wired, the switch is working fine tho no noises, no weird burning smells etc Amp is the Bugera bvp 5500 hybrid. One that I recently gave a glowing review off. And being from the behringer family I don't want it blowing up haha! An issue or not.

[quote name='kodiakblair' timestamp='1465600932' post='3069652'] @Twincam It's about 25-30 mile. Want me to see if he's still got it ? I saw them advertised in Guitarist mag early 80 and labeled it a fad,like the Hipshot D-tuner & Badass bridge. It's OK I'm not a betting man £20 back then rings a bell. Can't have taken off and patent must have expired cause Peavey have a similar thing on the new Milestones only it's called "Powerplate" Sod sustain,it's for guitar players when they hit the right note. [/quote] I thought about it very briefly lol. But as cool as it is in a throwback way I don't fancy adding the extra weight to the head.

Anyone ever use one? This one looks a bit too used for the price maybe?? Still cool though http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rare-Mesa-Boogie-Bass-Buster-200-All-tube-Valve-Amplifier-2-X-10-Combo-Amp-/262472430863?hash=item3d1c93750f:g:thsAAOSwvg9XVYY8

That's cool is this located close to you?