Twincam

I think voting for yourself is just not a British thing to do. I have no doubt in other parts of the world it would be fine.

[quote name='jaketheape' timestamp='1464635230' post='3061039'] Hi, just reopening this topic. I recently bought a second hand EVO II (uk manufactured) and the VU Meter bulb flickers on and off all the time. Nothing wrong with the output from the amp at all, but the flickering light is annoying. I've tried as others have suggested, removing the 4x screws from the front plastic in front of the vu meter, but they are firmly in place and just turning - 1x of the philips screws is badly worn so I am assuming the previous owner/s had already tried at some stage. Is there another way I can access the vu meter maybe from the back? My amp is one of these ones that fits into a Gator case, so has a chrome front. If anyone can help or provide any suggestions I would be very grateful? Thanks in advance. [/quote] Take the amp out of the case. Just like if the amp was a head version just remove it for access to all the internals. Or take the top off if it's a stand alone version. I don't know why people have had issues as its pretty clear you have to get inside to access the rear of the vu meter.

I may be totally wrong. Ok so class d basically has a transistor shut on and off rapidly. This is very efficient. But Just like an interlaced picture vs progressive, or a refresh rate of a picture that supposedly we can't see, some people do notice these differences as its a on off picture basically. Where as other forms of amplication like class A etc is always on a bit like a progressive scan pic. Not efficient amp tech but noted for its sound quality. Is this possible where the lack of heft some people perceive is coming from. That like a refresh rate etc some can see or in this case hear the difference.

It's very doubtful it would, as it really ends at the break point (the nut) and if wrapped correctly around the post there's a lot of tension holding the strings down. And so if reversed the you have the string tree for the pressure which will no doubt be more or less the same. The only way the extra length would make a difference is if the break point wasn't getting enough pressure to make a good contact, the extra string length would make no difference to a short string one given the pressure on the nut or even the bridge is the same. If not string tension is always the same given the tuning no matter how one fixes the end because of the nut and saddle are the contact points. If you altered that after the break point then the string would need less or more tuning tension to get it at the correct pitch so in the end it works out the same. It pretty much explains why there is no difference between string through and a well designed top loading bridge as well, poor designed or broken top load bridges can see a slight improvement. Because on a tuned string the tension is that high all of the downward force is applied to the break point the nut and the bridge saddle. Else we would have string through tuners that run through the end of the head. Maybe a high tech analyses with some very sophisticated equipment would note the difference but our ears and fingers won't.

Heft equals volume with extra volume that you feel not just hear. H= Heavy E= Equals F= Fat T= Tone

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1464527424' post='3060074'] Mesa Walkabout, HandBox R-400, Aggie 500... Heft, not heavy. [/quote] All of these are not heavy but much heavier than class d amps. Does that make them heavy? I say no. To some they will be though amazingly!

Mine just went dead and nothing, no output. Which is why I got rid of it. Fine of course if your using a psu.

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1464469555' post='3059724'] If you just change everything in sight then you end up with something different to what you started out with and will quite likely devalue the item . [/quote] I'm not that bothered about the value really. More bothered about something being in correct working order. I believe amps sound like they do because of there base design rather than the brand of components if swapping for like for like values that is. That said I do also think your view is correct too.

Lol

This can apply to a few things, in my case I'm currently still refurbishing my amp although it was supposed to be just a service. I think I've possibly went too far?. Ok most resistors have been changed, non of the old ones were out of spec particularly although actually I didn't test all of them, but a couple looked suspect so I changed them. The filter caps were changed they needed it. Valves changed they were a little tired. Bias components changed although they seemed in spec. And a few of the old mustard caps people rave about and some other caps here and there are changed and I think I'm going to change the others out as it is sounding better and clearer every time I've changed something. I've gotten rid of this slightly annoying fuzz, od tone that was good and bad in equal measures. I'm glad it's how I want it. So there's not that much original components on the board left to be honest. By design it still sounds "vintage" so to say, but I'm wondering if I should just stop now and leave it alone, as there's still some original resistors and caps and it's working well and suppose it's nice to have a little originality. Or just totally refurbish since I've went this far.

Any pot of the same value and size will work. But you probably want an audio taper pot.

[quote name='SubsonicSimpleton' timestamp='1464382491' post='3059134'] This months offering https://soundcloud.com/user-623375481/hypnotized I decided to dust of the zoom B3 and experiment with recording the acoustic sound of the double bass at the same time as my amp to create a textured noodle, I set up the zoom H2N between my amp and double bass to try and make everything a bit more 3 dimensional, and ran the signal from my piezo pickup through a bit crusher, octaver and step sequencer effects on the B3. [/quote] Interesting and pretty cool I like it. I'm not sure if that is almost like having two tracks though?

[quote name='FuNkShUi' timestamp='1464179522' post='3057261'] Here's an entry from markmcclelland [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6yrhkl9-LM"]https://www.youtube....h?v=l6yrhkl9-LM[/url] I said i'd post them for him in here. Some of you may be aware of the blog he is writing about becoming a pro player? Anyway, there more the merrier right? [/quote] I like it. A pretty charming piece. [quote name='Si600' timestamp='1464356235' post='3058798'] I done made me a noodle. It's more pot noodle than anything quality and no loopers were harmed in the making of this noodle, though it would have made it slightly easier to play!! [url="https://soundcloud.com/simon-orchard/bass-chat-noodle-may-2016"]Noodle[/url] It was played on an Aria Pro II Magna Series 5 String w/ EMG pickups into GK MB500 Fusion into Zoom H4n. B Channel with high gain on the valve pre. [/quote] I knew what to expect from the little waveform thing lol. Definitely into overdrive.

Did you talk to the seller about it?

Love the chunky bridge.

It arrived apparently the tracking system had issues. Unfortunately I had already sent parcelforce a few sharp emails lol. Ah well.

Valve amps are louder no doubt. I get a bit sick of the science saying there not or are only when pushed into overdrive as its not true even clean power they blow away most transistor based amps. I have read the science and theories etc and all of them still don't add up to the fact nearly every who tests a valve amp will find its louder than the same wattage of ss transistor based amps clean volume! My theories are. Valve amps add extra harmonics etc that can be perceived as louder. Many companies bs about there ratings or are bending the truth. And yes valves will be louder into od maybe our ears don't hear valve distortion as quickly as we would with a transitor amp. And adding class D lack heft! Lol

Lol parcelforce have just been to collect the parcel they collected yesterday. Stupid stupid bastards. Errm I see that swearing has not been edited hehe!

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1464352854' post='3058757'] Do some research online, you should find plenty and it doesn't matter if it's not specifically guitar related. Here is a very basic outline: prep is key, make sure your neck is perfect before oiling and sanded to at least 320. For a natural feel I'd apply the oil heavily then leave 10 or so minutes while watching the neck for obvious dry spots where the oil gets absorbed, if you see any of these apply more oil to these spots. After 10-15 minutes rub off all the excess with a cloth and leave 6 hours (duration will depend on brand) before re-coating. As you want it to feel like natural wood, you probably won't need much more than 2-4 coats, but it depends on the wood, just stop when you're happy that you have built up enough and you have no dry spots. Wax is simply "wax on wax off", directions will be on the can, but make sure the oil has been dry for at least a few days before waxing. Oh and make sure you dispose of the oily rags safely....they can self combust if left crumpled up. [/quote] Just to say I always run any left over rags under the tap before I safely dispose of them as I've seen a shed combust from left over rags.

Typically I tempted fate yesterday in the fun times with interparcel thread. Saying I've never been let down by parcelforce. Anyone know how to actually contact parcel2go I paid for 24hr delivery through them. First parcelforce picks up the item from me at at around 3pm, then it says they didn't collect on the tracking at just after 5pm. Finally it get moving to its destination. Then it looks like on the tracking it's sitting in the van today with a route assigned so something has went wrong and I want to claim back some of the money since it won't be there till Tuesday. I've contacted parcelforce easy enough waiting to hear back from them but I preempt them saying talk to parcel2go. I could of drove to the other side of the country in under 2 hours and delivered it myself for less fuel costs than what they charged and had money left over.

It all depends really in wood type and its application. In general Wood needs a finish for best protection and long term stability although some woods and some wood applications are ok without, there mainly darker hard wood types, most fingerboards etc etc. Light coloured woods especially maple should be finished. As Manton Customs says even a thin oil finish. What happens to unfinished woods is they get dirty faster and then there harder to clean as it gets really ingrained into the grain lol. Also there less resistant to moisture etc which can cause issues in the long term. Short term it's ok although if you get natural skin oil etc in the wood it needs to be cleaned throughly before a finish is applied. So if you have a lighter wood get a finish on it soon as you can really. Although your mileage will vary and you may never have issues but why chance it a thin oil finish can be almost like the wood is natural.

Urgh lemon oil. Give it a clean with water (damp cloth) then oil with boiled linseed oil, much better. Natural and i find it brings up wood better also seems to protect better from little scuffs. Can be bought cheaper and in greater volume. Lemon oil seems to dry out faster, it does smell nice though.

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1464204972' post='3057604'] Bill Fitzmaurice will be along soon to explain why these top loading bins do not perform as well as horn loaded bins. [/quote] Surely opening the lids would class as variable ports lol

[quote name='Dr.Dave' timestamp='1464075335' post='3056246'] Habit , mostly. Many moons ago I read an article that basically said if you're turning the amp much past 4 to get the volume you need you should be thinking about getting bigger gear. I've always liked the idea of my kit coasting rather than being pushed. I'll have a rethink though , notch it up a bit this weekend and see how comfortable I feel about it. [/quote] What past 4? Or halfway even is nothing for amps. The different manufacturers do differ but mainly I've found most amps are really at full power around about 7 or 2pm on the dial. Some go higher some a little lower. So you probably have a little in reserve assuming your gain is set right or at least not cranked. If you have a reliable amp then it should be no problem. What does cause issues is where there running really cranked past that point that there not giving anything else. I've noticed many more modern amps don't get loud till around 11am - 1pm anyhow so sounds like your not really driving it.