Twincam

Currently only solo bass playing. Although my girlfriend plays bass too so we often jam together. Have jammed with others. I would like to do open Mic nights or be in a gigging band or at least practicing band. Tried to get several bands together but have been let down. Trying to find people who are motivated seems hard. Ive found they noodle bar good to keep me amused. But I love instruments and associated gear in general to be around and work on etc. Also self improvement is motivating me a lot though I'm not naturally talented at all and really struggle but its a good struggle. And I think the question is valid and not offensive. I think sometimes its hard to get across a meaning in a post and some might not pick up on its intentions. I think I've annoyed a few people on here but I've not meant too. Although sometimes your opinion will offend others no matter what.

Capacitors actually like to be used rather than left to sit for any long periods of time especially bigger or older ones. If you have an old amp 15+ years, its best to use it. I've seen old amps that were working fine being used regular then after a period of time (even a month) of not being used the next time they are switched on a capacitor goes. An older amp should be switched on at least once a month if not every fortnight really. Newer amps don't need to be but again should not be left sitting for months. And as said things should be left in a stable atmosphere as possible things kept in a garage with drafts, moisture, atmosphere fluctuations etc will be more likely to have issues. Letting cold equipment get to room temp before switching them on would also help. Instead of having them go from cold to hot quickly therefore making connections etc expand quickly.

Isn't it a double action truss rod? Turn it anti clockwise a more to add relief the truss rod won't be as loose then as its acting on the walls of the cavity in the opposite way to tightening.

I played around with the input pad. Left it off in the end, I think if I was getting any less turn of the gain knob I would have it on.

[quote name='markstuk' timestamp='1475835140' post='3149056'] 900W RMS into 2/4 ohms @ 20% THD... So not quite so much in real life.. I suspect I know now why it was originally the "700" :-) [/quote] So does that mean its 900w with the distortion/od on. And lower wattage clean?

[quote name='walbassist' timestamp='1475850134' post='3149237'] If you have to set the gain control near the low end of the rotation in order to prevent distortion, activating the pad will reduce the input sensitivity and allow greater control range and freedom from overload. [/quote] Yeah but how low is too low on the gain knob? I'm guessing it varies greatly on amp to amp but is there a general rule. Does it really allow greater control? I'm slightly confused as surely if you activate an input pad, sensitivity goes down so you put on more gain but you will only get as much gain as if you had a weaker pickup. I think I probably should do some reading on gain structure or something. Does an input pad affect tone?

[quote name='Twigman' timestamp='1475849751' post='3149232'] Has your amp got a clip light on the pre? They're always a good guide. [/quote] Yeah it has one a good one which has a variable brightness/frequency and I have found it very easy to use as well as using my ears of course.

I bought a epiphone tbird classic from a fellow bc member and it has the gibson tb+ pickups. There probably the hottest passive pickups I've used. I really like them. I've had to turn my gain down to about the 10 o'clock position to get a clean tone. Which is fair enough it sounds good and I have plenty of useable (and more) valve overdrive left. Im wondering though at what point do you engage a pad switch? I always assumed a pad is for an active bass with boosted settings and you can't get any clean tone from the pre amp.

Bought an epi thunderbird classic from Jeff. Was immaculate as described and had a quick and easy transaction.

I'm guessing the Ashdown will be down a couple of db and probably doesn't go as low in the frequency range. But I don't see why it can't sound just as good although response will be different. Some people may not need the extra efficiency etc. And some may even prefer the ashdown's tone. But I see some barefaced owners seem to be getting a little defensive maybe?

It sounds like you do indeed want more relief (bow) in the neck and yes look at raising the saddle piece if needed too. The tapewounds do move more when plucked so in general they need a slightly higher setup than usual as well as a more gentle touch.

Sounds just like a normal setup issue going from one string type to a low tension type. Tapewounds are low tension under the wrapping the normal string is normally a very small gauge. So yes basically it needed a truss rod adjustmemt. Loosening the rod turning counterclockwise looking at the adjustmemt nut. If you don't want to take it to a Luther or guitar tech. Then you could do the follow easy enough. If you have stripped the nut then you could always change the strings to some normal gauge rounds or even flat wounds to get the correct relief of the neck. And btw truss rod adjustments are for the most part instant they may move slightly after a few hours but you should notice changes right away. If you don't have a set of feeler gauges then a standard card/paper business card (not plastic bank card) is normally around .013 which is a good place to start. Fret at the first fret and use your elbow to fret at the last fret then try sliding the business card under the 7th fret it should just brush the top of the 7th fret and under the string. And as for the saddle if you take it gently out you can always make a thin veneer out of a solid material to raise it slightly. Using cut paper strips one at a time to raise the saddle you can see how thick the veneer should be.

Ok my votes are in. I liked all the noodles this month, but I went for Leonard smalls rather interesting noodle. Agwin's nice mellow piece and eliasmooseblaster's funky noodle.

I've tested a number of ashdown's and owned a abm evo iii 500, In combo and head form. Also a few of there cabs. There certainly not crap the mag and the rootmaster series is alright gear nothing wrong with it but its more workman like shall we say. The rootmasters seem to be a bit better than the mag series it replaced. I also had a mag 4x10 cab of late and liked it. The abm series is a step up in class. However I struggled to get a well defined top end which is maybe where the woolly thing comes from and I didn't like the eq much. The valve drive control worked well though.

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1475274818' post='3144746'] Right in at the end. slow and mellow. [/quote] Is that a description of how your your finger injection went? Ouch hope its feeling better.

Well its everyone's noodle bar. And I've found it really fun even though most months I come last. There's been some really good and interesting noodles over the months. Its a fun little challenge to think of a 60 second piece.

The fender pure nickel (not plated) rounds are a slighter higher tension to other rounds given the same gauge. Also they have a tiny bit less string noise too. And being rounds they don't lack any zing.

There's a fair few instrument players in my family past and present. But there's a pattern of having natural musical ability or not. Unfortunately I'm a definitely not a natural and really had to try very hard, even to play at a low level.

http://www.originalscratchplates.com In pretty sure would do you a scratch plate if you send the one you have in to get a pattern off it. And isn't that pricey. Regarding the pu anything is poss with routing. Without then any strat pu fits and there are some good ones that suit bass. Many got a lipstick style one too. For the paint well you could just work the body with different grades of wet and dry and finishing it off with very fine polishing papers etc

[quote name='EliasMooseblaster' timestamp='1474992749' post='3142138'] Happy to oblige: https://soundcloud.com/cherrywhitemusic/funky-appendage/s-RxpFB [/quote] Haha pretty cool. The name is rather amusing lol and listening to the tune brought me much merriment.

[quote name='fretmeister' timestamp='1474966479' post='3141813'] New demo up with 3 different players https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xr4V7IX3bzQ [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xr4V7IX3bzQ"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xr4V7IX3bzQ[/url] [/quote] Its a shame demo vids can't fully portray the amp in question. I'm sure the amp sounds better in life so to say. To me I find it hard to judge an amp on a YouTube vid even with decent headphones etc

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1474895289' post='3141302'] Just back from holiday, don't know if I'll have time to defend my title this month If I do it will probably be fretless, as main bass is still in bass hospital having keyhole surgery. Was hoping it would be finished, but it hasn't even been started yet [/quote] The noodle bar has struggled of late for entries so it would be great to get another entry in

Another tip. I find marking the board with chalk with a tight crosshatching pattern really helps to properly get a flat board once leveling so you see were any high low spots are.

[quote name='danbowskill' timestamp='1474916142' post='3141531'] I'd imagine the power tubes wouldn't be that great at that price point......£150 n whack in some tung sols or similar n you will be laughing. I would actually fancy trying one alongside my SVT to see how close they are? [/quote] Bugera use generic but half decent Chinese tubes like many other brands then they test/age them etc and select the best ones I seen this on a factory tour vid. Here is a pic of there testing. So while they ain't high end there tubes are alright. [URL=http://s330.photobucket.com/user/Twincam2008/media/Mobile%20Uploads/P1000337_zps5dnqi0dq.jpg.html][IMG]http://i330.photobucket.com/albums/l415/Twincam2008/Mobile%20Uploads/P1000337_zps5dnqi0dq.jpg[/IMG][/URL]