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Everything posted by martthebass
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And the Ray5 gains yet more ground in the Socialist Republic of South Yorkshire
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[quote name='silverfoxnik' post='396021' date='Jan 31 2009, 11:04 AM']It is wierd though how Warwicks appear to have taken a bit of a beating when it comes to selling s/h?? Didn't that happen to MM Stingrays as well recently...[/quote] Certainly is. I was selling my Ray4 last year and dipped out when the price got 'silly', luckily I learned to love it again. Still, managed to get a good deal on a Ray5 to partner it so no wories.
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Went through 3 5'ers on the way to a Ray5. Picked mine up a few weeks back and couldn't be happier. It's single H with a RW board. I'd agree it's a little less snappy than my single H maple necked Ray4 (played acoustically - so not subject to comparisons over the alnico vs ceramic pups) but it's marginal. I prefer the RW board - it's softer to play, well figured and as noted above, doesn't get grubby like the oiled/waxed maple ones. Weight wise I'd say it's about the same as the DJ5 I had - 10lb and balances ok; it feels less of a handful than the G&L L2500 (US) it replaced. Comfortable on a long(ish) gig. The best feature to me for the bass is the neck profile - very easy to play, slim front to back but the strings aren't too close together for me (like a few Spector 5's I tried - don't know if they are all like that?), or too far apart (like the DJ5 - for me that is!). That price looks pretty good new, though you'd probably pick up a good-excellent one off here for £750?
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[quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='386656' date='Jan 20 2009, 08:09 PM']LOL mate. Not asking much, are you?! I'm still right, though [/quote] Pah - Call yerself a teacher I'm going to have to come around to yours Rich so you can 'educate' me in all things Statii. Thing is until the credit crunch goes away, us poor engineers are going to have to settle for '2nd best'.
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[quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='385430' date='Jan 19 2009, 09:26 PM']Again, I have to agree with your point in some areas, Mart. But in my view, from the Rays I've played (apart from one), yes. A Status is worth 50-60% more even when it's a used model. Well, an S2, anyway.[/quote] If we're using figures the engineer in me demands a break down of the 60% into quantifiable attributes/parameters. Accuracy to +/- 2 d.p. will be acceptable
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[quote name='Huge Hands' post='385136' date='Jan 19 2009, 04:39 PM']+1 from me. Still haven't fully got the hang of it on most of our songs (only backing vocals!)[/quote] +1 again. Master backing vocals and move forward. I've never had a problem with backing vocals but lead vocals - hmmmmm. Never understood why, but some songs I can lead vocal on (e.g Teenage Kicks), but other similar songs (e.g. Anarchy in the UK) my timing goes T*** up.
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[quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='384369' date='Jan 18 2009, 09:15 PM']Go for an older Status SII or a new S2-Classic & you're in another ballpark altogether. As for the SmartBass, they're pretty good, but it depends on how much you're willing to spend on options. You're better off going just a little higher in price and getting a bolt-on S2-Classic. Once you've played one of these, you'll never look at a MM again! Rich.[/quote] Don't disagree Rich. My only point was the pricing. A good Ray4 would come in at what £600ish wheras I'd expect to pay best part of £900 - 1000 for a similar nick S2 or Stealth? Like many things does the price difference equate to 50-60% 'better' in the case of the Status. If money isn't an issue go Status but it's all down to personal preference, I like the sound of both and couldn't call one better than the other (tho I do like graphite necks). If I had the cash I'd have one of each
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Stingray Pickup/Preamp Question
martthebass replied to lateralus462's topic in Repairs and Technical
2 trick pony if you buy another one and fit one with flats (or dead rounds) and one with newish rounds It's the only way I've been able to get em to sound different. -
Tricky one this. Normally I'd say hit the shops and try em out - but that isn't easy with the Status being in the equation. I've got a couple of MM's, I've been thru a few Fenders, Laklands, Warwicks and a G&L but I always find myself coming back to MM. MM's do have a distinctive sound which you either like or you don't but they are well made and will last you a lifetime of playing should you wish. From a 5 string point of view I find the MM5 neck the most comfortable out there but some would prefer a wider string spacing (like the Lakland 5's) Having said all the above at some point I would like to acquire a Status 4 or 5 but not while the px value of MM's gives such a price differential. Getting back to your specific question tho, of the Smartbass and the MM4 or 5 I'd personally go MM. If you were talking S2 or Stealth well.........
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[quote name='Golchen' post='381211' date='Jan 15 2009, 01:02 PM']Life isn't fair. Why can't women see men as sex objects???[/quote] If the women where I work are anything to go by, they do mate, they do......
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Don't know about you but I've always found that the tone knobs on the 3 eq MM's (I've had two 3 eq Rays and a Sterling) were never anywhere near as smooth as the 2eq ray I had.
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Looks ok to me - what are you getting at? Looks mid 90's with the old metal screw on battery cover - also looks like the transition bridge (longer than current - with the 'false' mutes).
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Had both - couldn't tell the difference. I thought the Ash had a prettier grain......erm, that's about it.
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[quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='373191' date='Jan 7 2009, 04:07 PM']Hehe, thanks for the extra picture of my new bass, Bruno! Rich [/quote] I was damn sure you were going for a 2nd hand Streamline........... Now that would have made me very jealous
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Fender Precision 1973 (Candy Apple Red)
martthebass replied to stereo_monkey's topic in Basses For Sale
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[quote name='drewie' post='370168' date='Jan 4 2009, 06:13 PM']Did yours have a RW board & Tort guard?[/quote] No, it was the standard 57, white (single ply pickguard) and maple board. Quite probably the best bass I've ever owned and it was a snip at £202 back in 1982. Regarding the knobs, they weren't 'fully' rounded - just not the flat tops like are on my MIA 2004 P bass. Semirounded? edit: Just had a look at the bigger pics on the ebay auction - yup, mine were deffo like those.
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[quote name='drewie' post='369627' date='Jan 3 2009, 10:27 PM']Hi all, I'm the seller of this bass, so if anyone has any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I've been a member here for a little while, but rarely visit. The reason for my very recent registration on Ebay is that I just haven't bothered before. Anything that I have bought or sold in the past has been through family or friends. I have a few things I want to sell on at the mo, so rather than burden them with it all I have registered myself. I can very well understand somebodies reluctance to bid on the bass for that reason. Good to speak with you Simon (Old Git) earlier - hope to see you at The Claude in March. All the best, Paul[/quote] BTW Paul, the control knobs look the same as the ones that were on my old 57 reiss JV Precision (Large Fender/Small Squier on headstock).
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Musicman Singray last 25 mins left!
martthebass replied to Tone le Bone's topic in eBay - Weird and Wonderful
£650 heh. Are prices looking up? -
IIRC Bongo's pricing 2nd hand is just as dire as Rays/Sterlings. May be worth selling the Suba and putting a want ad on here for a Bongo? I would never buy (another) new MM.
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The natural Jazz looks the way to go for me. It would add a different complexion to your playing and complement your Stingray nicely. The Sterlings a beaut, but it still basically sounds like a MM. If the JV had original pickups or something more trad (EMGs - no!) well...... The CIJ P bass - well that would be my 2nd choice.
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Bass Strings keep dying, Help Please!!!!
martthebass replied to cjbassguy's topic in Accessories and Misc
I find with me it depends on the bass. On my old MIM jazz (now long departed) I found the strings (Rotos) lost their edge after about 3 gigs (c. 7hours play time). Fortunately I like 'played in' so I left them this way for 6 - 12months before changing. On my Ray4 - I rarely change, I just dial in some treble/mid if the zing ain't there. I only change when there is obvious wear in the strings above the 'most common' fret positions. Here the natural 'zingyness' of the bass coupled with active electronics helps the cause. My P bass has very old strings - I haven't changed them since I got it from Old Horse well over a year ago so god knows how old they are. I use this for mainly rock n roll and 60's stuff so dull as dishwater suits well. I generally found that Rotos were pretty crap at holding the new sound tho some people tell me they are now much better in this respect. I've found EB Slinkies to hold the new sound for longer.