martthebass

2 trick pony if you buy another one and fit one with flats (or dead rounds) and one with newish rounds It's the only way I've been able to get em to sound different.

Tricky one this. Normally I'd say hit the shops and try em out - but that isn't easy with the Status being in the equation. I've got a couple of MM's, I've been thru a few Fenders, Laklands, Warwicks and a G&L but I always find myself coming back to MM. MM's do have a distinctive sound which you either like or you don't but they are well made and will last you a lifetime of playing should you wish. From a 5 string point of view I find the MM5 neck the most comfortable out there but some would prefer a wider string spacing (like the Lakland 5's) Having said all the above at some point I would like to acquire a Status 4 or 5 but not while the px value of MM's gives such a price differential. Getting back to your specific question tho, of the Smartbass and the MM4 or 5 I'd personally go MM. If you were talking S2 or Stealth well.........

[quote name='Golchen' post='381211' date='Jan 15 2009, 01:02 PM']Life isn't fair. Why can't women see men as sex objects???[/quote] If the women where I work are anything to go by, they do mate, they do......

Don't know about you but I've always found that the tone knobs on the 3 eq MM's (I've had two 3 eq Rays and a Sterling) were never anywhere near as smooth as the 2eq ray I had.

Looks ok to me - what are you getting at? Looks mid 90's with the old metal screw on battery cover - also looks like the transition bridge (longer than current - with the 'false' mutes).

Had both - couldn't tell the difference. I thought the Ash had a prettier grain......erm, that's about it.

[quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='373191' date='Jan 7 2009, 04:07 PM']Hehe, thanks for the extra picture of my new bass, Bruno! Rich [/quote] I was damn sure you were going for a 2nd hand Streamline........... Now that would have made me very jealous

[quote name='drewie' post='370168' date='Jan 4 2009, 06:13 PM']Did yours have a RW board & Tort guard?[/quote] No, it was the standard 57, white (single ply pickguard) and maple board. Quite probably the best bass I've ever owned and it was a snip at £202 back in 1982. Regarding the knobs, they weren't 'fully' rounded - just not the flat tops like are on my MIA 2004 P bass. Semirounded? edit: Just had a look at the bigger pics on the ebay auction - yup, mine were deffo like those.

Looks all original to me Paul. Mine was bought from new in 2TS - the silver metal knobs were standard. Mine were also rounded - not flat tops.

[quote name='drewie' post='369627' date='Jan 3 2009, 10:27 PM']Hi all, I'm the seller of this bass, so if anyone has any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I've been a member here for a little while, but rarely visit. The reason for my very recent registration on Ebay is that I just haven't bothered before. Anything that I have bought or sold in the past has been through family or friends. I have a few things I want to sell on at the mo, so rather than burden them with it all I have registered myself. I can very well understand somebodies reluctance to bid on the bass for that reason. Good to speak with you Simon (Old Git) earlier - hope to see you at The Claude in March. All the best, Paul[/quote] BTW Paul, the control knobs look the same as the ones that were on my old 57 reiss JV Precision (Large Fender/Small Squier on headstock).

£650 heh. Are prices looking up?

IIRC Bongo's pricing 2nd hand is just as dire as Rays/Sterlings. May be worth selling the Suba and putting a want ad on here for a Bongo? I would never buy (another) new MM.

The natural Jazz looks the way to go for me. It would add a different complexion to your playing and complement your Stingray nicely. The Sterlings a beaut, but it still basically sounds like a MM. If the JV had original pickups or something more trad (EMGs - no!) well...... The CIJ P bass - well that would be my 2nd choice.

I find with me it depends on the bass. On my old MIM jazz (now long departed) I found the strings (Rotos) lost their edge after about 3 gigs (c. 7hours play time). Fortunately I like 'played in' so I left them this way for 6 - 12months before changing. On my Ray4 - I rarely change, I just dial in some treble/mid if the zing ain't there. I only change when there is obvious wear in the strings above the 'most common' fret positions. Here the natural 'zingyness' of the bass coupled with active electronics helps the cause. My P bass has very old strings - I haven't changed them since I got it from Old Horse well over a year ago so god knows how old they are. I use this for mainly rock n roll and 60's stuff so dull as dishwater suits well. I generally found that Rotos were pretty crap at holding the new sound tho some people tell me they are now much better in this respect. I've found EB Slinkies to hold the new sound for longer.

Too much gear movement this year, but will be less 'transactions' in 2009. In: MarkBass LM250 MarkBass 151HR MM Ray 4H MM Ray 5H G&L L2500 MIA Fender Jazz F'Less Lakland Bob Glaub Out: Lakland Bob Glaub MIA F'less Jazz G&L L2500 Lakland DJ5 Warwick Thumb BO4 Trace GP715SM

Not sure on this one, but I guess my opinion is 'the more options the better' and let the buyer choose. I like shiney new guitars and get a bit upset when new ones get dinged, mainly because I see each one as depreciating its value should I choose to sell/px it. The only bass I have where I don't feel this way is my 2004 P bass becasue it's a keeper and in 20 years time it'll look like one of these relics but probably wont be worth much. Ironically I played a 1969 P bass yesterday that looked like one of these. It rattled/buzzed and played like a dog, however if someone had offered it to me in a trade against my 2004 I would have snatched their hand off so I could sell it and buy something decent. I can understand the relic thing if it looks like the 1969 I played but played like the 2004

And you got a free T-Shirt? Santa's been kind hey Rich?

[quote name='BenHorne' post='366379' date='Dec 30 2008, 04:42 PM']I thought about the Status neck. Then I would have to send my ray to your little Island all the way from Norway to get Status to fit it. (I would prefer Status to fit the neck..) This would mean that I would never use the original neck again, and then I would have a Stingray that probably would be very close to the Flea, so I'd lose the versatility of the Stingray. (If a Stingray w/status neck = a Flea sound- and playwise) But I have to admit, the graphite stingrays are very sweet.[/quote] Don't disagree - I probably would get Status to fit the neck on my 'precious'. Having said that it was a simple swap out on my old (now departed) Fender Jazz. You could sell the Ray neck (should be £100 - 150) or keep it to one side to refit if you ever sold the Ray. If my old Jazz was anything to go by, no versitility was lost, the sound just became more 'focussed' and the playability was much improved. The basic sound was still retained. I think Bassmankev would probably agree with this for the Ray conversion?

I very nearly bought a F bass earlier this year - and would have had to sell my Ray4 to finance it. In the end it didn't happen but in some ways I'm glad. I've rediscovered the Ray, I found that while I hate the sound of it at home or while recording nothing much beats it live. Like some of the guys above I love graphite necks - not so much for the sound/feel but for the stability and fantastically low action you can get. On this basis if I get GAS again I think I would stick with the Ray and stick a Status neck on it and get the best of both worlds.

[quote name='Russty_dub' post='364624' date='Dec 28 2008, 09:30 AM']only thing is i cant really tell the diff between the sub n ray, and ive played the sterling, i did not like that at all,[/quote] Looking at the way you play (assuming that's you in your Avi), In the long run I think you'd find the Ray more comfortable than the Sub - profiled body!

Owned a few of both Rays and Jazzes. For £600 you'll get a near mint MIA Jazz or Ray4. TBH you're wasting your time asking our opinions. They are completely different beasts but are both basses! - so therefore you could use either in a band for the low end. Only you can decide whether it fits in with 'your' sound. IMHO neither is more versatlie than the other but if you're more of a 'Rock God' I'd go for the Ray.

Often wondered about this 'shock'. A couple of pubs I used to play - I was always guaranteed to get Mic shocks. Only happened at these 2 - despite using RCD extension. Pi**ed me off so much I went wireless - never looked back.