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martthebass

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Everything posted by martthebass

  1. [quote name='BenHorne' post='366379' date='Dec 30 2008, 04:42 PM']I thought about the Status neck. Then I would have to send my ray to your little Island all the way from Norway to get Status to fit it. (I would prefer Status to fit the neck..) This would mean that I would never use the original neck again, and then I would have a Stingray that probably would be very close to the Flea, so I'd lose the versatility of the Stingray. (If a Stingray w/status neck = a Flea sound- and playwise) But I have to admit, the graphite stingrays are very sweet.[/quote] Don't disagree - I probably would get Status to fit the neck on my 'precious'. Having said that it was a simple swap out on my old (now departed) Fender Jazz. You could sell the Ray neck (should be £100 - 150) or keep it to one side to refit if you ever sold the Ray. If my old Jazz was anything to go by, no versitility was lost, the sound just became more 'focussed' and the playability was much improved. The basic sound was still retained. I think Bassmankev would probably agree with this for the Ray conversion?
  2. I very nearly bought a F bass earlier this year - and would have had to sell my Ray4 to finance it. In the end it didn't happen but in some ways I'm glad. I've rediscovered the Ray, I found that while I hate the sound of it at home or while recording nothing much beats it live. Like some of the guys above I love graphite necks - not so much for the sound/feel but for the stability and fantastically low action you can get. On this basis if I get GAS again I think I would stick with the Ray and stick a Status neck on it and get the best of both worlds.
  3. [quote name='Russty_dub' post='364624' date='Dec 28 2008, 09:30 AM']only thing is i cant really tell the diff between the sub n ray, and ive played the sterling, i did not like that at all,[/quote] Looking at the way you play (assuming that's you in your Avi), In the long run I think you'd find the Ray more comfortable than the Sub - profiled body!
  4. Owned a few of both Rays and Jazzes. For £600 you'll get a near mint MIA Jazz or Ray4. TBH you're wasting your time asking our opinions. They are completely different beasts but are both basses! - so therefore you could use either in a band for the low end. Only you can decide whether it fits in with 'your' sound. IMHO neither is more versatlie than the other but if you're more of a 'Rock God' I'd go for the Ray.
  5. Often wondered about this 'shock'. A couple of pubs I used to play - I was always guaranteed to get Mic shocks. Only happened at these 2 - despite using RCD extension. Pi**ed me off so much I went wireless - never looked back.
  6. [quote name='G-77' post='144405' date='Feb 21 2008, 02:30 PM']dont tell Warwickhunt but i got one as well a few weeks back, just havne got round to posting pics yet. [/quote] That is so....................huh *** How many basses in my sig below would I have to sell to get one of these?
  7. Is it me or does that have a seriously bad neck pocket? You could get 4 plectrums in that Also - 11lb 10oz - not exactly a lightweight..... Has that put you off?
  8. Some basses have a default (either a push pull knob or a switch) to turn on/off the pre-amp. G & L L2000/2500 do - so if the battery runs flat you can switch to passive and it still rumbles. The Stingray doesn't so if the battery runs flat you get no sound. There's usually fair warning of this - the sound starts to distort. I guess different basses are more efficient with battery life; my Ray(s) generally had 12 months+ with weekly use, wheras an old Westone Thunder 3 I had was dead with the same use in less than 2 months. Always take the jack plug out of the socket when not using it - this drains the battery. No jack plug - no draining.
  9. [quote name='EssentialTension' post='355546' date='Dec 16 2008, 12:37 AM'](but then I rarely go up the dusty end anyway).[/quote] A man after my own heart - you mean there are notes above the 12th?
  10. After 25+ years of playing I had my first crack at a 5 at the back end of last year - Lakky DJ5. For me I couldn't get on with the flat FB, string spacing (too wide) and 35". Having said that I could see the potential, for a lot of the stuff I play with the band (general R&B and Rock n Roll) being able to keep above 5th fret could be a bonus. I've now moved onto a G & L L2500 (courtesy of Essential T) and couldn't be happier - I might even start using it on the odd gig against the P/Ray4. I still find the 4's more natural, if I get carried away on the 5 sometimes I get confused and trip over meself mid song, but with perseverence I can see the point of the 5 and strangely enough it makes me a bit more inventive.
  11. [quote name='BigRedX' post='353161' date='Dec 12 2008, 09:35 PM']Class! Saw YMG at the Boat Club in Nottingham in 1980. One of my all-time favourite gigs.[/quote] Unfortunately never got to see em myself. Didn't really catch on to how good they were until 81-82ish. Talking of obscure - caught the Human League in Sheffield last night and they pulled 'Empire State Human' out of the bag. Nice one.
  12. Brand New Life - Young Marble Giants
  13. [quote name='Jase' post='350117' date='Dec 9 2008, 07:35 PM']Hmm, not looking too good so far![/quote] Don't get me wrong Jase, the Status replacement necks are great - I would have a fretted one in an instant on my Fender P or Ray4 (or GnL L2500 for that matter if they made them). BUT I would have it fitted by Status. The fretless resin board is a bit marmite to me - I'm sure there are just as many that prefer it to wood - I'd just try one before you buy.
  14. I fitted a Status fretless graphite neck to a MIM Jazz (2001). I had 2 MIM jazzes at the time the 2001 and a 1996 - the neck was a crap fit on the 1996 but a great fit on the 2001 for some reason. The neck was excellent, never went out of tune or move in any way and could get a really low action. Somehow didn't feel right to me tho - I came to the conclusion I prefer a wood fb on a fretless.
  15. [quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='347397' date='Dec 6 2008, 06:33 PM']Very nice, Paul. I played the one Mart had a while ago & that was one of the nicest sounding jazz-clones I'd ever played. Great score, mate! Rich.[/quote] Yup Rich, Lovely bass. If only it had been available with a SR5 neck and 34" scale I think I would've found my ideal 5 string.
  16. This is the twin of the one I used to have (also a 57 re-ish JV02). Don't ever sell it - I've regretted my 'loss' ever since Traded mine for a 82 Jazz (pillock)
  17. For god's sake someone please hurry up and buy this. I would happily replace two of my lovelies with this black erm...lovely.
  18. Glad to hear it's still going well with the Sterling Ed. Tell the band this is the Sterling's 'more polite' cousin and use it on the 'softer' numbers
  19. [quote name='tauzero' post='346222' date='Dec 5 2008, 10:34 AM']You mean that as all the paint will drop off in a couple of weeks anyway, it doesn't really matter?[/quote] You've had a Highway 1 then?
  20. [quote name='thebeat' post='344929' date='Dec 3 2008, 11:18 PM']If only it were that straightforward...i have a P that i tried a Badass on and compared to the Fender bridge it sounded sh*te. I do have Badass bridges on my Jazz basses though...but i'm gonna try one of them out with the Fender bridge to see how it compares. If a bass already has good sustain...and lets face it sustain is only one part of the equation...putting Badass on it may change it for the worse, ie too much sustain.[/quote] +1 Let's be sensible, the old bent piece of tin design was perfectly acceptable for a few decades. Would you take it off a '62 Jazz? If you want improved engineering etc buy something else - probably won't sound like a Fender tho.
  21. [quote name='BassManKev' post='345430' date='Dec 4 2008, 02:14 PM']perhaps you didnt enjoy the full student experience [/quote] Yup...loved it. Back in the days of full grant and no course fees - Joy. As I recall tho, the down side was 35-40 hours per week of lectures/practicals and no modules (i.e. 80%+ of your degree went on the 3rd year final exams).
  22. [quote name='Mr Fudge' post='344178' date='Dec 3 2008, 02:42 PM']Is it neck on body (wood to wood) and then the 4 screws and plate. No other washers, bolts, pins etc... If have never done this before and I dont really want to take of a neck of one of my jazz's just to satisfy my curiosity. Im fitting a jazz neck to a p body if anyone has anything else to add. cheers.[/quote] Just be careful getting the neck out of the pocket - don't want to chip the paint. Then again it's a Fender - you should be fine
  23. [quote name='EssentialTension' post='344935' date='Dec 3 2008, 11:23 PM']Most of that extra weight is the two 5-string MFDs.[/quote] Guess you're right Dave, they sound pretty heavy Having said that 10lb for a 5 string 'fender' shape aint too bad and the balance being as good as it is seems to make this ok (unlike my old Thumb bass which, despite being 8.5 lbs, killed my shoulder). It's going out for it's first 'extended' session tonight so we'll see how we go on but as it's unlikely to ever be my main gigging bass (I can find all the notes I need on a 4 for the band's set) I'm quite happy to use it sat down if necessary! These G&L things are a bit of a 'unsung hero' sort of bass, I'd prefer to keep hold of this one. More trips to the Gym may be necessary.........
  24. [quote name='thepurpleblob' post='343921' date='Dec 3 2008, 11:34 AM']I honestly wouldn't mind - but such beasts seem *rare*. I'm a bit iffy with the neck on Warwicks, which seems to put paid to that in the "real world"![/quote] If you like wide and flat go Lakland. I didn't - so that's why I'm on the L2500. Of the 2 you mention the SR5 neck is a bit more comfortable (slightly thicker on the L2500 - but apparently new 2008/9 US models are a bit flatter?) initially but, light blue touch paper and retire, the L2500 is the better bass
  25. [quote name='Jamolah' post='344723' date='Dec 3 2008, 08:35 PM']Anybody have any comments regarding the difference in feel between maple/RW? I've only ever had dark wood boards on my basses and am curious about the difference (if any) a maple neck might make.[/quote] Think this old chesnut's been battered about a fair bit. IMHO strings make a lot more difference than the board wood. I think it takes ideal conditions and a highly trained ear to determine differences between same model basses maple/RWood, same strings etc in a dark room! (guess I've never experienced either - cos I can't) Main difference I think is the 'feel'. FWIW I personally just prefer Rosewood, but it shows how much it really matters to me as 2 out of 3 of mine are maple
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