Buzz

Does it have to say Fender on the headstock? Edit: You could also get a neck made/bought and put a Fender decal on yourself...

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='852052' date='May 30 2010, 07:54 PM']er...thanks Buzz...[/quote] Well, we are on a discussion forum, seems a shame not to take a point that was raised and discuss it.

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='851545' date='May 30 2010, 12:31 AM']I was thinking about this a bit more...I wondered if he'd told the owner he planned on being out of pocket by say...$100,000 to help the Pastorious family to settle the ownership of the instrument one way or another. So it was up to the owner to decide whether to accept the money as a reward for the return of the instrument, or leave the Pastorious family to spent it on legal fees... ...considering that John Entwhistles frankenbass went for 42,000 quid at Southerbys, I don't think $100k is unrealistic for a slice of music history.[/quote] I completely disagree with your view of pricing. The reason being is that Entwistle was a member of The Who, who were massive in their heydays and known globally. Pastorius while a very good jazz bassist and did a lot for the instrument, is practically unknown outside of specific music circles. Part of the value of Entwistles' was due to his fame and popularity, Jaco simply doesn't have that and won't command the same price imo.

Doubling voltage is basic electronics, however a bit of a pain with DC. Normal principle of operation is to convert DC to AC in some way (an inverter will do the job), tranform the voltage up (transformer and/or use a voltage doubling circuit, lots around, dead simple), and then rectify it back to DC. There are some other ways, and some off the shelf chips that do DC-DC. The issue is current though. Doubling the voltage halves the current as Power has to remain constant (ref: Ohm's law / Joule's first). But I'm certainly not that knowledgable in electronics, perhaps a pm to Dave Hall or Umph will set you down the right path.

[quote name='ezbass' post='850626' date='May 28 2010, 08:26 PM']RWs have this also.[/quote] Not according to Fenders spec sheets on their webby.

American Std obviously, lot more value for money in terms of features present in hardware and construction. Graphite reinforcement in the neck along with rolled finger board edges for starters.

I had a quick look around the usual suspects (Axerus, Allparts, WDMusic as well having a look at Rapid and Maplins), and tbh, I think you may have to bite the bullet and get it shipped. I know CTS do actually make them, but finding a shop stocking 100kohm concentrics will be a nightmare. You might be able to contact some luthiers though, they might have a couple floating around from odd builds, but it's a long shot.

Tasty guitar.

Jesus, considering the state of that neck "repair" I would have started there before attacking the fingerboard but it's a bit late now. You could have detached it and glued it properly at the correct angle and fixed the original damage. Good luck on fixing it although personally, I say nuke it considering the damage it's taken.

In before Ped/CK say they're more stable and have a snappier tone

Very pretty. I take it that it still has the signature and bespoke Wal pickups like the old original ones did?

[quote name='Dave Vader' post='835603' date='May 12 2010, 07:42 PM']and for those of you who will undoubtedly say, what's that bass? Can I see it closer, I say yes, but you'll have to look around the guitar player, who is rather bright... [/quote] Guitarists eh? Always hogging the limelight.

Clarky without a P-Bass, shocker Glad to see T-Bird love is expanding.

As an extra to the above post I made: The problem I've got with the whole shebang is that back home a house has got one of those anti-dog/fox/cat things on the front lawn. I can hear that loud and clear when I walk past it and it's certainly higher pitched than that 17khz tone on the site. Last time was at Easter, I noticed it then and I've done nothing since then that would account for a massive drop in my ear's response.

23 and 17khz is the highest I can hear. 18khz is a no-no. I've tried through speakers, earphones and headphones. Dunno if the soundcard is limiting it though. If not, I know exactly where the damage occured, and that'll be at a gig where it actually hurt my ears due to a spike in volume (singer screaming down the mic as I was infront of a pa stack in the crowd).

Grolsch (or other rubber washer type) is the way to go.

Is it me or on the left of that picture by the water front is there a bloke who's gone native?

Cor, that is a stunning colour. Keep the pickguard though, not only is the colour a great contrast, it also breaks it up and adds a feature.

I feel like I've stumbled into a thread on BW, circa 2006.

[quote name='richrips' post='829128' date='May 5 2010, 11:11 PM']Why do i feel i've just put myself against a wall facing a firing squad of irreconcilably angered fret-marker-less fretless bass players? ....and i guess the upright brigade will be after my blood as well..... well it was nice knowing everyone![/quote] And the violinists, chellists, viola-ists......

DIY it. Shouldn't take more than an afternoon to quickly put together something decent that does what you need it to do. Obviously you'll have to go find the foam padding somewhere though.

Hi, read this thread: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=135"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=135[/url] It's the big bumper thread about impedance and wattage in relation to amps and speakers. The basschat wiki articles are very good as well. Basically, if both cabs are 8 ohms (total load will be 4 ohms), whatever power your amp puts out at 4ohms will be split equally between the two. The wattage rating on speakers is only to do with their maximum handling capacity and not how loud they are really. So, if you've got an amp which puts out 500w at 4ohms, each will get 250w. All you need to do is make sure the cabs will handle that*. [sub]*Not strictly true, but good enough general rule[/sub]

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' post='826893' date='May 3 2010, 10:15 PM']If you are happy believing that, then be my guest I don't intend to pursue the argument in that direction with you. Most basses, I agree come with shims but we are talking thin bits of plastic in fact thinner than a thin fender pick. To shim say a Jazz bass in order to make up for the increased height of an original Badass bridge you are going to need a shim as thick as a tupperware lid, or similar, that will significantly detach the neck from the body and in anyone's book that is a no no., so please believe what you wish. I have many friends in the luthier trade and their professional verdict on the subject is that, the best fit for one of those Badass jobbies is by carving out a 3mm square slot on the body.[/quote] And vibrations can't travel through a well secured (it's bolted down under tension after all) shim to the rest of the body because? Shims don't have to be plastic either btw.

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=26654"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=26654[/url] is the reccommended Luthiers thread. Find one close to you and inquire about their prices. They'll be competitive.