Musky

I like it! The idea of 'Spinal Taff' that is, not the guitar.

[quote name='4000' timestamp='1386247622' post='2297627'] I've had both experiences. I've had basses bought at a distance that have come to me horribly set up and been transformed once I got them, and ones that I've been unable to correct without major surgery. But then I've had the same with ones in shops; my first Wal and first (and 4th, thinking about it) Status were bought assuming I'd be able to set them up to my liking (low and easy!). Both later - after much struggling - turned out to have neck problems which could have been fixed but at a pretty large cost; I moved them on to people who were quite happy with them as they were. Depends how much you like the rest of the instrument I suppose. [/quote] Sure. I think most basses can be set up to your liking, but like you I've been bitten before. I've hung on to basses which I felt were OK but not exceptional and been happy with them, and also taken punts on instruments which I haven't had the opportunity to play before buying but which have also panned out for me. But I wouldn't want to buy an instrument which I knew had an action I couldn't live with on the assumption that it could be set up better.

Yeah, about 9lbs-ish seems to be fairly average for a Fender P, although that doesn't sit in the the middle of the range of weights. I suppose 9lbs would be the mode rather than the average. I'd call any anything less than 8lbs in the [i]very[/i] light category.

I'm with all those who said they'd expect the lead to be included but not at all bothered if it wasn't. All though there are benefits to not having a lead included. A little while ago a bought a keyboard off Ebay and it arrived with a hole punched through the casing near the output jack, which had clearly happened when the package was dropped on to the enclosed mains lead... So perhaps the sellers are just thinking of the safety of your new purchase?

Although it does seem something of a cliche nowadays, the persistence of smashing up instruments does suggest that there's still an audience for this sort of behaviour. In fact some of these acts of willful vandalism have achieved 'legendary' status. But as with so many things in life it's not what you do but how you do it. Even by the late sixties The Who's routine gear smashing was looking tired compared to their earlier efforts. Whilst not in the same league as trashing a guitar, I watched a former band mate shred five of his six strings in front of a fairly sedate Berlin audience. The place went bananas. I mean completely nuts and stayed that way for the rest of the gig. For some reason people respond to that kind of thing, and Neil Young's similar antics in 2009 (with the aid of string cutters) seems to have gone down pretty well with his audience. So if it works, why not? Just choose your moments - it's such a fine line between clever and stupid.

[quote name='6v6' timestamp='1386163836' post='2296578'] This just isn't true, it depends on much more, primarily accuracy and integrity of the the neck construction, how level the fingerboard and fretwork is, neck angle and if you can shim it, etc etc. [/quote] +1 I had a Fender P with a warped and slightly twisted neck. It was set up as well as it could be under the circumstances but it certainly wasn't perfect. This has guided every purchase since - if you can't live with it as you find it, don't buy it.

Someone posted just the other day about a similar percentage price rise on Picato strings, so perhaps it's not just coated strings. I wouldn't really know as I like my strings deader than a dead thing and buying new strings is a thankfully rare experience.

[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1386057747' post='2295011'] Pay your twenty quid (a set of strings or about half the price of a reasonable night out) and then it IS free! I really don't understand all this belly-aching over a few quid. Just look at your signature man - there must own about £15,000 worth of gear and are "selling" nearly the same - and you tell us you can't/won't stretch to £20! Unbelievable. [/quote] Are you sure you've quoted the right post? He's not belly-aching and specifically said he's going to pay in the New Year...

AFAIK the whole under-powering thing comes from the PA world, where they tend to use much larger amps than the speakers can handle. The reason for this is that clipping can damage tweeters. This isn't a problem for bass units where over excursion is a far bigger problem, and big PAs are usually used in conjunction with limiters to prevent just this. So no, using a 500w amp with 600w speakers won't be a problem for you.

[quote name='TimR' timestamp='1385806202' post='2292318'] That's an amazing idea. [/quote] When I saw the thread title I thought exactly the same thing. I've no idea what the answers to your questions are but I's certainly like to know.

Isn't the Bass Cellar defunct? They moved into the basement of Rockers briefly, but now even Rockers has closed down. Possibly you're thinking of Wunjo's Bass Centre which occupies the old premises of the Bass Cellar? There have been many posts about their excellent service.

Ah, the Harley Benton is the equivalent of the Fuel Tank Classic, not the Juicy Lucy.

300.

It could be that it's as good as it'll get, but straightening the neck and then raising the action until it stops rattling the frets isn't necessarily the best way to get a low action. Try lowering the action and let us know where on the board it starts to rattle. Bear in mind that as mentioned everyone has different playing styles, and that strings vibrate the most at the centre of their length. It may well be that setting the relief to a height that suits someone else isn't going to work with your style.

If it's the one I'm thinking of Thomann do a Harley Benton version of the T Rex. Spec and layout of it is identical, so they probably share the same manufacturer.

[quote name='simon1964' timestamp='1385167451' post='2285352'] Possibly. Although it still seems odd that I can apparently post a link to a fake rickenbacker in the eBay thread, but can't sell my genuine ric on here. But I've learnt to live with it! [/quote] Do you want to sell your Rick?

[quote name='TG Flatline' timestamp='1384948455' post='2282593'] All mine are built to order, so the options are quite broad! I've done Knightfalls with clean blends, variable Voice settings (the "Low" knob on the Knightfall 66), boosts pre or post distortion, two channels, 18v internal charge pump, to name a few. The Knightfall 66 is a somewhat expanded version of the Knightfall, with two channels each with independent gain and volume controls, plus clipping options, a filtered clean blend and the Low knob explained above. Si's video shows what's going on with it very well Mostly, people ask for slight tweaks or additions to the existing circuits. [url="http://www.cogeffects.co.uk/inertia.php"]Kev's Custom Inertia pedal[/url] has a standard Knightfall but with voltage boosted internally to 18v, running into a Grand Tarkin which has an added knob to control the mids interaction in the Tone section, along with the standard Mids knob from the Grand Tarkin (labelled HPF on Kev's). [url="http://www.cogeffects.co.uk/signor-gatto.php"]Bakerster135's Custom Signor Gatto pedal[/url] has a Darklighter but running on 18v and with an internal switch to flatten the mid hump, running into a TK-421 (as yet to be released) Lots of folk go for the two-in-one approach like those two I've found. Mods - I've tried to just answer the question and not be too advertisey, but please let me know if I'm flirting with the rules in any way [/quote] Thanks for the comprehensive reply Tom. Quite a a range of options.

What are the extras you can offer on thrse Tom?

[quote name='The Dark Lord' timestamp='1384903454' post='2282276'] I think so. There are already healthy Fender and Gibson forums around - so there's most of your guitarist right there. The mass guitar market is totally different from the niche that is bass playing. [/quote] I think the idea is to go for a niche in the mass guitar market, i.e. offer a forum that isn't dominated by pubescent numpties.

[quote name='AMPEG' timestamp='1384890446' post='2281986'] Hi Twigman...see your point but S prefix indicates 70's...that said the modular nature of Fender production may have resulted in a 78 manufactured neck being assembled and sold in 1980? But the 80's date would relate to the electrics only? [/quote] That's exactly what happened with Fender serial numbers and S8 serials turn up on instruments as late as 1982, so serial numbers alone are a poor way of dating a Fender. Their use of serial numbers wasn't exactly sequential either, which is why Fender specify '78 or '79 for their S8 numbers. The routing, serial, colour, and inspection sticker on the neck are all consistent with a bass made around 1980. Has the neck got a number stamped on the heel? That should tie in with this sort of period.

If it were me I wouldn't buy anything that didn't have an action that I could live with. Some basses are set up as well as they're ever going to be without some major work.

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1384886491' post='2281918'] They would sell very well indeed, and if they used some of the better Korean factories they could be excellent instruments. It's not going to happen under the current ownership and management of the company, however. That's just not their business model. [/quote] +1 [quote name='skankdelvar' timestamp='1384893496' post='2282060'] Why not email Mr John Hall at Rickenbacker? I'm sure he'd welcome any suggestions, him being such a good listener. [/quote]

[quote name='AMPEG' timestamp='1384866001' post='2281549'] The pots are deffo Jap...but someone told be the circular rout is only done on MIJ, CIJ AND MIM and not on USA models [/quote] No, they were definately routed like that in the late 70's. There's a recent thread covering this topic about here somewhere.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1384810624' post='2281078'] Serial number is correct for 1977-1978. [/quote] Bit of a weird period for serial numbers in the late 70's - S8 numbers were still showing up on instruments in 1982. Incidentally, this has just prompted me to add a picture to the [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/128339-70s-fender-precision-timeline"]timeline[/url] I did a while back. I'll get round to adding more at some point.

[quote name='AMPEG' timestamp='1384808966' post='2281048'] Hi all, Right, I am now doubting the authenticity of my Fender P bass which I bought in the 90's.The neck is numbered S898018 on the front of the headstock (just under the word Fender) It says made in USA. Now the body...it has a small sticker in the pocket with the same number. In the pot bay there is a sticker with a different number 11.11.80. Also there are two strange routs.... just below the pocket is a circular rout about he size of a 2 pence peace...... Its central and about an inch and a half below where the truss rod part of the neck will rest. Also there is a rout of about 3 inches stretching from the pot bay towards the lower horn of the body. Thankfully the scratchplate cover both. It is obviously trying to appear as a 1978 Fullerton bass but I think its a Frankenbass. Anybody got any suggestions. [/quote] That sounds like it's got everything I'd expect a late 70's P Bass to have.