Musky

[quote name='Mog' timestamp='1389540435' post='2335254'] Dunno how its done but my Hydrive 112 has that option and its come in useful very often (see below) (See above) I've used the impedance switching on my Hydrive 112 on a few occasions to get the full 500 watts out of the LH. Usually in mid sized venues without adequate monitoring. [/quote] I knew someone had used twin coils for this. I don't know of any commercially available drivers that have this though, and even if they are available it's going to seriously cut down driver choice (possibly to one). It'll also affect TS specs. And you'll still probably be getting less than a 2db increase in volume.

[quote name='Mog' timestamp='1389539019' post='2335233'] Design the best cab for metal \m/ Seriously though, fair play for taking this on and sharing it. It's gonna be an interesting watch. One suggestion I'd make would be having the 1x12 switchable between 8 and 4 ohms. Obviously the more components added will increase the overall cost but perhaps the final plans could have this as an option. [/quote] A switchable cab would ultimately mean just adding some form of resistance to a 4 ohm cab, which would create more problems than it solved (i.e. heat) for no increase in volume. The only reason I could see for doing this would be if your amp didn't go to 8 ohms. Impedance switching on cabs is just marketing nonsense IMHO.

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1389456681' post='2334368'] I already have 3 112 cabs and 1 212 cab. Why would I need another? Convince me. [/quote] Because 4 is one more than 3.

The zoom B3 does everything you want aside from 12v operation. Losing one of the features you'd like and investing just a bit more in a separate box to cover that will open a lot more choices...

And another vote for the old school type cab. I'd thought about something like this myself - not huge bass extension, but strong in the low mids. Which pretty much describes the sound of the old sealed Marshall 412.

I'm sure plenty of people have gone into a shop and then bought online. It doesn't bother me at all, as long as the condition is still what I'd describe as good. Swirls in the paint which you need to hold to the light to see don't worry me. Although Musicman20 would probably agree with you.

[quote name='Bassassin' timestamp='1389314922' post='2332890'] Happy to help! Those tuners are the ones with the cast chrome buttons, which turn up on Japanese basses from pretty much all known brands & manufacturers - although not usually on Fujigen Fender copies, it's true. A lot of hardware on early/mid 70s MIJ stuff appears to be Gotoh, and I have seen a NOS set of these in a Gotoh box. As for the bass - it's a Status alright, although nothing to do with that nice Mr Green: From a Jedson catalogue which is probably circa 1972. This might well be a decent JapCrap J if it sells for sensible money. Jon. [/quote] Cheers for chipping in Jon. I can't quite make out those tuners though, despite you going to the trouble of cropping the catalogue scan. Are they the same ones that they used on Shergolds, for instance?

I've a vague recollection that these have come up before. Nothing to do with the Essex company (obviously) but there was a Status brand well before the more famous one. The pickups are the same as appeared on Fuji Gen basses, but doubtless they weren't the only factory to use them. I don't recall Fuji Gen using those tuners though. Hopefully Jon will be along soon to put me right. Edit: Actually I think the tuners might be the plastic topped ones they used in the early 70's, rather than the rectangular ones I first thought. So maybe it is a Fuji Gen after all.

[quote name='0175westwood29' timestamp='1389301786' post='2332693'] well what your getting is a hint of overdrive, what i will say and im guilty of this is when you have a good sound on your own or "design an od at home it sadly does normally get lost in a band mix, i try and find a hole for the distorted bass to fit in. im also insanely luck in having a guitarist that is willing to work with me to make space for each other. also ive been surprised sometimes as i think ive got lost listen to a recording and my bass sound fit really well. but from your clip something low gain maybe even something like what you have the behringer set to have no impact or change sound but just with a small gain boost, i did this before i got my overdrive pedal to push the amp a tad, or in your case the pre amp. andy [/quote] I think this is spot on. Listening to the clip it's quite a middy sound, which always cuts through and there's nothing near it in the mix. I think the problem is less one of the right overdrive, but one of finding the right EQ to suit your current band. Oh, and hang on to that guitarist Andy!

Sunday (when he posted the auction) was the last day of the free listing offer, so I can understand him putting the auction up like that. Although he can't be too bothered if he hasn't updated it almost half way through the auction.

[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1389081073' post='2329570'] Listen to it over and over again. Play along with it until I get the part right. If I'm really stuck I might try youtube, as there are some decent versions of some songs out there... Obviously it takes longer if you don't know the track in the first place! Mine is not a scientific method... Then again, if guitarists are not bothering to learn the tracks properly, do you? Would a rough approximation suffice? [/quote] Repeated listenings for me as well, although I use the Amazing Slow Downer which makes life a lot easier. Best Practice and Audacity will do the same job and are free.

Because the various brands/exporters/distributors use the manufacturers stock photos. Edit: if you flick back through the Japcrap thread you'll doubtless find Jon referring to this.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1389044614' post='2329342'] Me neither. What else is there we don't know about..? [/quote] I was wondering exactly the same thing when I posted that. I didn't realise that the dots to the left of the thread titles took you to the first unread post until Wayne pointed it out a couple of years ago...

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1389041650' post='2329270'] Something I'd like more would be either a "Back to top" link or a "View new Content" button at the bottom of the page. It would save getting to the bottom and having to scroll back up. [/quote] There's a back to top arrow at the bottom of the page, in the light gray bit to the right of the 'Help' link. It's pretty well hidden though.

[url="http://audacity.sourceforge.net/"]Audacity[/url]?

The reverb on it suggests it's a guitar amp. I remember Badger amps being advertised in the back of the music press in the late 70s - small combos selling at the budget end of the market, but that's all I know of them. You could try it with a bass and see if you've got use for it, otherwise sell it or give it away. Seems like a shame to bin a functioning bit of kit.

Holy cr@p! Hopefully a new thread can be cut in the truss rod - I'm sure this is a problem that many luthiers must have come across before and have the tools for repairing rather than replacing the entire rod.

[quote name='cameltoe' timestamp='1388836518' post='2326568'] No the relief is set perfectly now, how I would consider it to be anyway. What I was considering is if removal of the shim and the resulting change in neck pitch would drop action at the 8th relative to the 15th. Above post states it will raise action especially at the higher frets- This is what I was wondering- if the higher frets are affected more by removing the shim, then this will allow a lower action at 8th due to increased clearance higher up. [/quote] Removal of the shim would have have exactly the same effect as raising the bridge, i.e. raising the action. Because you're adjusting from the body end the greatest effect would be seen at the dusty end but it would also raise the action on the lower frets, e.g. the 8th. You've effectively got a lever arrangement with the fulcrum at the nut, like in the right hand picture below. To change the action you can raise or lower the upper line (the strings) with the bridge, or you can raise or lower the bottom line (the neck) by shimming but in either case all you're doing is changing the angle of the strings relative to the neck. You can see that you can't simultaneously drop the distance between the neck and the strings at the 8th fret whilst increasing it at the 15th by adjusting the angle.

Removing the shim won't make any difference to the problem you're describing. All the shim is doing is giving you greater adjustment at the bridge by increasing the back angle of the neck. Remove the shim and you'll get a higher action, particularly at the higher frets. When you lower the bridge to correct this you'll be back to where you started with the fret buzz. I'd be looking at the relief and/or the fret heights. Edit: Martin beat me to it!

[quote name='Mark_Bass' timestamp='1388829290' post='2326451'] Taking a cue from the posts here I brought two sets of light elixirs from the US fleabay. All in with shipping it was £63 so assuming I don't get stung on import it works out as a decent saving. [/quote] Fingers crossed for you!

[quote name='squire5' timestamp='1388795051' post='2326296'] Its a bloody Squier P5! There are hundreds of them about.I have 2 myself.Yes they have Jazz pickups,yes they have Precision bodies and they have wide necks and YES,there are other threads on this forum about them,but they're nothing new. [/quote] If anyone would know, it would be you.

[quote name='BetaFunk' timestamp='1388780612' post='2326077'] I've had a go on a couple of Krappy guitars. Kevin at Krappy has just made me the 2-String Bass but it hasn't arrived yet. I'll let you know all about this one once it arrives but generally they are what they are. I know that's a bit sketchy but i think when you buy one your opinion is based on what you think you are getting rather than what it is. I hope that makes some sense. Whatever anyone thinks of them they are fun! [/quote] Cheers. That's kind of what I'd imagined, and why I've not pulled the trigger. Sometimes the journey is more fun than the destination! I might be searching skips for a 2x4 and some nails to use as frets though.

[quote name='BetaFunk' timestamp='1388755219' post='2325624'] That's two of us in the market for one but i don't see them catching on somehow. I do have a Krappy Guitars 'Mark Sandman/Morphine' inspired 2-String Bass though. [/quote] How does you're 2 stringer play? I was always curious about those Krappy Guitars but put off by their disclaimer.

[quote name='FretNoMore' timestamp='1388738139' post='2325356'] It's really hard to recommend a dirt pedal, it depends so much on your taste, music style, and what gear you will pair it with. The only good advice is really to try pedals in person if you can. Otherwise you can only do as much listening and reading reviews online as possible, weigh all of that together, and then take your chances. And then do it all over again because what you bought didn't quite give you that sound you have in your head. Been there, done that, still looking. What I will say though, is it doesn't hurt if the pedal you choose has a blend and/or an EQ built in so you can tweak the sound a bit. [/quote] +1 Checking out youtube demos only gets you so far. The differences can be very subtle and difficult to describe on paper. The only way you're really going to find out which you prefer is by trying them in person, and even then you'll probably end up looking around for something else that gives you just a little bit more of what you like about your choice. It's a long and potentially expensive process.

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1388693366' post='2325002'] Bruce Foxton & JJ Burnell Fender Precision - though both can really be covered by a black/black/maple US Standard. Would just be nice to see the pair of them recognised by Fender for really bringing the Precision up front in the mix (plus having some great chops as well). Think there may have been a Fender JJ at some point iirc? [/quote] I thought JJ went with Shuker because Fender wouldn't do him a sig bass???