BassBod

You've got to wonder - after the active preamp in the bass, the Avalon and the Redthing DI..what is the Aguilar contributing? These days I don't envy the gear, just having someone else who is employed to move it all and set it up. Luxury.

Nothing like a good moan - we all know exactly how you feel! But...my experiences here have been about 90% fantastic and even the bad ones have been sorted out in a sensible manner. It really helps that most members here actaully know what they are talking about and don't just quote "retail" or ebay values without question. I avoid shipping basses unless I have a very good hard case, and I rarely send stuff beyond the UK. I hate paying Paypal fees. If possible I meet up with buyers/sellers. Most annoying experiences were: 1) a "boutique" USA amp head that sounded great but hummed like a bee (nothing wrong with it..just the way it was built) 2) agreeing to buy something, then seeing it re-advertised on ebay. Not really bad experiences, just life. No doubt the economics and the season are causing more problems than usual. I'm not selling one or two things because I just don't think I'd get a decent price, but I can move them on later. In the meantime I'll carry on using them. Remember - there's always Ebay!

As mentioned, some companies (Alembic for one) use "centre to centre" at the nut, but outer edge of string to next string at the bridge.

I've used one a few years ago - the answer is Probably. You might also find you have to file the scratchplate a bit? Mine seemed a little "oversized" compared to most. My best P pup experience was the Dimarzio model P - a really good sound with plenty of mid range to give definition. I thought it was better then any "real fender" I' heard...but I've only heard a few.

Very nice.....looks like LaBella strings? A lovely simple design that lets you get on with the playing - enjoy. On a different topic - where did you get on the amp setup?

Two suggestions. Look for an old Tokai jbass or an older japanese squier - these tend to be very faithful copies and more importantly are made of "good" quality wood rather than laminated from allsorts. The other option I'd recommend is Brandoni in London. They used to have good stocks of Jbass bodies and necks, from quality (Japanese?) makers. Some of the hardware can be cheap and cheerful, but its worth a look. I've still got an alder bodied Jbass I put together ten years ago and it feels and sounds great (with a Badass and Seymour Duncan pickups).

It can probably be "dressed" a few more times before you run out of wood. Take it to a good luthier - don't know your part of the world but Jon Shuker and Jim Fleeting spring to mind, or our very own bass doctor- have a look at the list. I'd expect to pay £250 upwards for a "pro" job, but most of that would be labour for getting the old board off safely and tidying up. People often talk as if ebony blanks cost big ££...but they don't.

My experience is limited - I only had the loaner Compact for a few days. But my observation is that it is too easy to associate light weight with being "flimsy"...we are used to cabs being heavy and most of us older buggers probably associate that with "quality". Ten years ago I would have avoided a cab that was fairly light, because it would've been made out of crap chipboard, with crap drivers and probably a crap design to go with it. My current Euphonic Audio cabs sound very good, are pretty small but are not very light. But this is changing. The ply that is used in the Compact does look very thin. It is thin..but its designed and constructed by someone who is interested in developing and producing a good speaker cabinet. My first impression of the Compact was "incredibly light for 1x15..must be made of cardboard...and sound rubbish". I was wrong, and could happily gig one for virtually everything I do.

Just put a passive pJ set in and enjoy it? You don't ever have to use the J pickup..but its easier than filling and re-finishng.

Another vote for "almost straight". Actually, that sums me up pretty well! It does also depend a lot on the bass and the strings - on a trad Fender I'm much happier with a little neck bow than I would be on something more modern like a Warwick. And I don't mind working a bit harder playing flats than rounds.

Measure nut to 12th fret and double it - that'll give you the scale length of your bass. No need to be precise, all you need to know is whether its closest to 30" or 32". These are the two "standards" that makers work to as defining short or medium. With that bridge you be ok. Some 30" scale basses like Hofner violins need 32" medium scale strings because the tailpiece is a few inches away from the bridge. Also string-thru body bridges need longer scale strings for the same reason. Good luck (and check out Pyramid Golds from Thomman. Expensive but very nice)

I found Thomman had the best selection (including shorts) and good prices..as long as you buy more than one thing so the shipping is worth it. Check the bridge design on your bass as some 30" scale basses need medium (32") strings because of tailpeices etc?

Congratulations Chris - there might be a lot of grumbling here about vintage prices...but we all love a happy ending. Enjoy.

As you say, its a matter of taste really - both should give you a good tone, its really a question of whether the amp is adding something you need to be in the PA? I've found that engineers often prefer to take a line from the Sansamp rather than an amp head (whatever make). I think its mainly because thay trust them and also don't expect radical amounts of eq - quite wrong most of the time!

Lets have a go.... [attachment=37380:DSCN1099.JPG]

Yes, that's the one. But mine hasn't got any electronics and the usual aluminium bride/tailpiece is made of rosewood instead. BB

Thanks again to the organisers - p#ssing rain and crap traffic couldn't ruin the fun! Highlights for me - the chance to play an Eminence, Wal ProIIE and see some lovely Shukers..and to meet some of the real life BChatters I've been talking to for a few years. Now I've got to decide which bass gets the new strings.....I like that sort of problem. BB

There are two main differences (apart from the size). The bridge is usually wound hotter to get a similar output to the neck (less string movement near bridge=less output) but also they are usually reverse-wound so that they hum cancel as a pair.

I've used the nickel rounds for years (on and off) and also the flats. The flats are nice - just like flats used to be. The rounds are good, perfectly usable but not as nice as the DR or Thomastik I normally use. Having said that, they are around half the price, or even a third of the UK price for DR's. Pete the Fish used to fit Picato's as the factory strings in the later days of Wal..and Mo Clifton uses them for extra long/short custom strings for his designs (short scales with a heavy core wire). If you are a down- tuner I'd talk to them for suggestions? As with all deals, try them first.

I'd suggest a used GK Microbass combo - they really are small and pretty light and can gig very well (with DI). Can't really go wrong with one?

Best all round option I've found is the Hiscox case. Its not indestructible, but is very very resiliant and does protect the instrument well (even if the case gets a battering). Also they are not very heavy, so not such a pain for all the other carrying around airports busses and hotels etc. My last one had done thousands of "van miles" car miles and a few flights before I used it to ship a bass I sold. The case had a few dents (one or two were more like punctures) but all the latches still worked and nothing had ever happened to the contents in 4 or 5 years.

The Eden traveler is a good amp, but not a loud one. Mine (earlier 300 or 400w version) used to overheat if used at 4ohms or pushed loud into 8ohms. I found it works well as a preamp - get a used power amp and enjoy? I now use the EA 500 head, which is fantastic, loud enough (for me) and versatile, once you understand the preamp (looks complicated, but isn't). If I want a warmer sound I use my old Sansamp in front to fuzz things up a bit.

Again, I'd suggest the DiMarzio model P - like an old Pbass, but a touch more output and mids. Try it without the Sansamp (although I like them...but into an Ampeg??)

Its worth contacting Nigel Thornbury (luthier and co-designer of the Ashbory). Yonks ago when I had one of the Guild versions he supplied some blue strings which were tougher than the clear ones. I think it was what they used on the second longer-scale version, that hasn't been revived by Fender as it was never distributed in America. I think his retail site is highlystrung.co.uk or something similar?