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BassBod

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Everything posted by BassBod

  1. I regularly use just a GK MB combo or one EA1x10 with EA or Clarus amp head. A lot of my gigs are "almost acoustic" or no drums so I can get away with it..I've learned the hard way that very very few drummers are comfortable playing these quiet gigs. Rather than get frustrated at having to keep the volume down I like to look at these gigs as a chance to have a really good full sound - well, it keeps me busy anyway! Bit more boost at 42 Hz anyone (or would 46 be better in this room)?? I have also done a lot of big PA jobs with no amp, just the Sansamp and using the stage monitors. This is almost impossible to predict, and you never know what it sounded like anyway...but seems to work ok, if you can suspend any belief in what you are hearing whilst playing the gig.
  2. Doubt if there are any rods in that one...didn't they go for the full graphite neck? Someone here owns one, I'm sure... Anyway - lovely bass, and I'd love to buy it - but far too expensive for me, so I'll have to make do with my humble Epic. Good luck with the sale
  3. I played a very similar bass (fretless Kestrel with 2 Kent Armstrongs) a few years ago that had an accident..and a complete headstock re-build by Hugh Manson. Was completely sound and a good repair, but if this is the one, it should be disclosed. Obviously may not be the same bass, but there can't be too many of these around?
  4. I'm still very happy with my lightweight set up - EA 500 with one or two cxl1x10s. The cabs are a bit heavy for their small size, but that's relative. One thing I've done for years is to dirty up the clean sound (also with SWR) with a Sansamp..it really helps to make things sit better in most musical styles - not really distortion, but just a smudge. Don't forget you can pick up old trace/swr/ampeg/alembic preamps fairly cheap - they're not popular because of the 19" rack format, but they also light! I sometimes use the EA 500 as a power amp and it works very well.
  5. There could be fault with the trace XLR, but more likely (as suggested) its the difference between mic level and "line" level...as I understand it there isn't much of a standard amongst amp makers. I've had numerous complaints over the years with various amps' XLR output being "too hot" or "not there" or "too noisy"...usually the desk can take either./or be adjusted to a working level. The only failsafe method I know of is using a jack line output from the amp into a good passive DI box that sends a mic level signal with no added circuit noise or hum issues. Also usually works fine with active DIs provided they have a line or attenuated input...but they can overload. And not in a nice way.
  6. Another endorsement for the K&M (with backrest and footrest) from Thomman. When the exchange rate was better it worked out around £100 delivered. It really is good...the only problem is something else to carry in to the gig. But there are loads of times where it makes life more comfortable, even with a heavy BG. Its also good to use for practising at home...although I really need to do more of that!
  7. Look at the Orchid electronics site - around £35 and really good.
  8. Look at the Orchid electronics site - around £35 and really good.
  9. I used one in the late 80s - very light (nothing in it!) and usable for small gigs. Don't expect it perform like an old trace elliot.... If you are on a very tight budget and won't be playing very loud its ok....but I'd suggest a trawl through evil bay to see what they go for?
  10. I got the old preamp a while back and got some replacement knobs etc from gbaudio. I think a lot of the bits are generic UK industry though, so maybe worth looking up some general electronic bits suppliers?? Switches all work fine on mine as well...although I have seen some sold on evilbay as "rare" or "hard to find"...
  11. I bought one here last week - used it at the weekend for EUB gigs, made the GK combo sound a lot warmer and "older". I've only played through B15's a few times, years apart, so I've no idea if this pedal does a good emulation or not. But I like the sound it makes in front of a small modern combo.
  12. +2 - bought VT bass pedal - arrived quickly, in great condition. Easy transaction
  13. I bought the Clifton used, for not much more than a Dano would be new...they do crop up sometimes. May be worth asking Mo if he knows anyone that might be selling ? I've played a few of the longhorn reissues, they are pretty comfortable and very light. The build quality is basic, but ok and the sound is what it is.
  14. I've got a Mo Clifton piccolo "travel" bass - five string, normal tuning but an octave up and a 24" scale. Its also fretless. Its a great little bass for noodling on..taking on trips etc I've also played it with an octave pedal and that works surprisingly well to give a bit more depth to the sound. Look em up? [attachment=29436:DSCN1098.JPG]
  15. Was that the blue fronted stuff?? No pics..no amps. There must a few examples still around?
  16. Someone buy it quick before I get all nostalgic....I really, really can't afford to! BB
  17. I'd go for something like the Aguilar 2 band (the first version, boost only) or the East "stingray" two band. You won't have to boost the top end with EMG's, but they warm up nicely with a good low end.... I put the boost/cut version into a Warwick with EMG PJs and it was great, but I never used the cut function.
  18. look for a used Alembic preamp (F1x or F2b) - it isn't just about having a valve..its about circuit design. I'd also rate the SWR grand prix or Studio 220 head or Groove Tubes preamp (front end of the Studio 220). The Aguilar stuff is great, but tends to be expensive. Don't forget cheaper pedal/ preamps - the Sansamp, Aguilar DB924 or Sadowsky DI can all sound fantastic.
  19. Now that's a bass.....if only i didn't need a car (or food...clothes...)
  20. I'd suggest looking at the nut - to get the best mmmwwwaaaww..you'll need the slots to be cut really low, just above the the fingerboard surface..and I mean "just". Only makes a difference on the first and second fret positions but its usually set too high (because its easy to overcut and mess up the nut). If you want to try yourself make sure the files are a reasonable match to the string sizes and put a strip or two (stacked) of masking tape in front the nut so you know if you hit the board. good luck BB
  21. Thomastik flats would be warm and lovely...status black plastic flats would be twangy and growly. Both might need the action moved up a touch if you are a hard hitter.
  22. BassBod

    Cocobolo

    If you really want to use it, I'd suggest a sandwhich, with something lighter and more " resonant" like alder or cherry in the middle, with thin faces on the front and back. Bubinga is heavy enough..no need to go any heavier
  23. Another one for Bristol (almost Bath) here...and a direct comparison with SWR Goliath II or EA CXL112....
  24. The Harvest bags aren't on the new site - I got mine about two years ago when I visited the workshop. Would've loved to have walked out with a new bass or EA amp....but that's all I could afford. Its a great gig bag.
  25. Bass Buddy vs Demeter....that's the sort of choice I would like. With me the equivalent would be Raven Labs DI vs Alembic F2B - makes me glad to be a bass player!
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