BigRedX

I can't see the point in having an on-board pre-amp that just duplicated what you should be able to do better on your amp. The only on-baord pre-amp that I actually use on any of my basses is the ACG EQ1 as not only does it do something that I can't replicate elsewhere in the signal chain, but it also allows me to EQ each pickup individually.

Amps and cabs are just modules with a baked-in sound and some degree of adjusting that sound. If you don't like the sound a particular module gives you, then don't use it. I have the full version Helix and most of my patches don't use any amp or cab modules at all. When I do use them, it's either a guitar combo sim (Roland Jazz Chorus) or it is specifically for the distortion sound that a particular bass amp gives.

I think it has a s much to do with the kinds of music you like as well as the era when you got into music. My first interest in music was 70s glam rock and then progressed to punk/post-punk, synth pop and then acid house/progressive house. My while most of the genres I liked owed their roots to US artists, it was always the UK and European bands that took the music and made the definitive versions of it. Until the late 90s and early 2000s I owned hardly any records or CDs by US bands. In fact these days I probably have more Japanese music than that from the US.

It's not just the type of pickup but also where they are positioned and how they are wired up when both are selected.

I really can't see the point in commenting on a sale thread. If it's something I'm interested in buying, I will PM the OP, otherwise there is nothing worth saying.

To get back on topic... To the OP what is your bass rig for? Is it the sole means by which the bass guitar is heard by the audience, or do you have PA support?

Randomly changing the price for a higher one when relisting can be a legitimate technique especially if you have watchers who aren't bidding. Drop the price a couple of times and then put it back up. Eventually someone will take a punt.

It looks like it has never been serviced as it still has the Bulgin mains connector, which needs replacing ASAP.

Yes I do. The XLR cable goes to the single XLR input on the RCF.

I’d like to think I am Dan Weir of Espedaire Street. Not the front person, but the one responsible for (co-) writing all the songs, who just happens to be the bass player.

Definitely not a Kramer. It does share some similarities with the aluminium necked- Hondo Alien that I used to own - 2 screws on the neck-end string retainer (Kramers only had one). My Alien also had what looked like a Schaller 3D Bridge, but it was made of some weedy metal unlike the real thing. AFAIK All Kramers were made in New Jersey USA. The headless Duke was made simply by sawing off the headstock off their stock necks.

I haven't worn a watch for a long time (since the late 90s). In the days when I did wear one, if would always be removed before playing as it didn't go with the band image.

We've already done this. Please try and keep up.

The track length should be related to the circumference of the pot. The bigger the pot, the larger the circumference the longer the track.

Surely a mini pot will have a shorter track than a normal size pot?

16 for top E is pretty hardcore, but by comparison 60 for bottom E is almost normal. I use a 56 for drop D and probably wouldn’t struggle with something a little heavier.

Thank you. Now that's far more interesting than some seemingly random bass photo. It would be great to see the back of the body where the strings are anchored, because this bass may have a floating neck construction like Born To Rock (the joint at the headstock end suggests that it might) and in which case it wouldn't need a truss rod.

Luthier? Website?

It's our "German friend" Music Outlet Shop once again. Nothing new to see here, move along.

Mac OS has a very handy utility that will show which devices are on which USB bus. If there is something similar in Widows I suggest you use it to find which USB ports are attached to which USB bus, and use the port(s) which aren't being shared by other devices. Otherwise use SATA for your external hard drive.

@Happy Jack @Silvia Bluejay That might be why you can't get the ethernet connection to work. It looks as though you have to turn off the internal WiFi on the mixer to enable the ethernet connection. I have found several sources on the internet that appeared to imply this also. Time to get a good quality external router to allow simultaneous wired and wireless connections.

Thank you. If we were able to find a synth player with fantastic technical ability, who can also double up on guitar, percussion, backing vocals, is happy to sit out those songs that don't require anything extra, and willing do it all for occasional expense money, then we would have no need of the backing track.

@Stub Mandrel When it comes to string gauge and tension either your maths is flawed or you are not taking into account the construction of the string (solid core and several top windings on the thicker strings like low B). Looking at the D'Addario string tension charts a 34" 130 gauge low B will have a tension of 30.78lbs. Increasing the gauge to 135 will increase the tension to 33.32lbs which I make as a 8% increase. Also as I have said previously IME neck construction and the neck joint make the biggest contribution to getting a good low B. The longer you make the neck the more likely it is to flex and dissipate string energy leading to a bad sounding low B, hence the proliferation of cheap 35" scale 5-string basses which don't sound as good as a well made 34" scale 5-string bass. This is also why your maths doesn't work for short scale basses as the shorter neck is going to tend to be more rigid. Also it doesn't take string compliance into account, i.e. factors other than the tension which affect how stiff a string feels. Like string construction, as well as string break angles at the nut and bridge.

What is your laptop and what ports does it have other than USB?

Or you could just turn your amp up a little bit more.