Acebassmusic

These threads raise their head every few months or so in various disguises - "never play above the 5th fret!", "chords over everything!", "roots 'n' fifths only!", "slap it like it owes ya money!" 🤣 None of which are right.......or wrong! @Stub Mandrel said it for me "It depends entirely on the context". If we all subscribed to the less is more then those oft hallowed basslines from Rhythm Stick, Rio, Do I Do, Wherever I Lay My Hat, Roundabout etc. wouldn't exist. Likewise a pumping 16th note frenzy as the bassline for Dreams or Too Soon to Tell probably wouldn't work too well either. 😁

Sold Rod some straploks. Easy deal and great comms. Thanks Rod

Not the 310 but the 210. A friend has 2 x 210 MNT which he only uses both for big gigs. Normal pub gigs he only uses 1 in a 5 peice covers band.....and he's not quiet 🙂 I used his rig for a dep I did for him in a big hall and it didnt break a sweat. Based on this and other reviews I bought one 210 for the rehearsal space and running it with a Tecamp Puma 900 and find theres no lack of bottom end or clarity with it. I have yet to use mine on a gig as I usually use my Berg CN212 which is itself pretty awesome. I doubt you'd be dissapointed with either the 310 or 410 you're looking at. If you need the volume without PA support then the 410 might edge it. For moving and storage the 310 would win for me. Alternatively get one of each "just in case" 😉 🤣

I have in the past looked around for info on the switches as it wasn't initially clear to me whether the "lowest", "low", "high" etc related to frequency or boost. On the Ken Forums he only says something like the bass, mid and treble controls are set to "some frequencies that sounded nice but I can't remember what they are and I think I have them written down somewhere"! I then found a sheet on the Smith site for the PAPA outboard preamp that has the same dip-switches in and he talks about them adjusting the basic frequency of the unit. From this I gather that the bass, mid and treble controls give you cut and boost and the dip switches are there to "fine tune" the frequencies. Currently mine is set with the New configuration but I feel a "twiddle" coming on to check again what they do in practice 🙂 My current Fusion 25th and the 6'er I traded for it.

Why not make your own adjustable one? See post 6 for the better one......Adjustable Radius Block

This is is the way I did it with my band for a number of years: Use your DAW to record all your clips and samples and pan hard left. Add a click track to the DAW and pan hard right. Before the start of the song add 2 bars of extra click. Record the whole track to CD (other media forms are available 🙂 ) When you play the media through your PA route the left track (music) through FoH. The right track (click) gets routed only through an Aux output to a headphone amp and into headphones for the drummer. When you press play, only the drummer can hear the click. They use the first bar of clicks to get the tempo before counting everyone else in using the second bar of clicks and away you go...... The drummer uses the click to keep everyone together and everyone else just listens to the drummer as normal. Obviously there's no flexibility / on the fly musical arrangements once you use this process but we found it great for adding in random extras like brass stabs, pads or occasional strings without having to find a "rare as rocking horse doo-doo" keys player. The reason I went down the CD media route was simplicity and reliability. I'd tried to do it originally by programming a midi player and found the tech would occasionally decide to do something different to what I wanted 🙂 The player I used and have just sold was a Denon DN-300Z ( Denon link ) It allowed me to route and play the backng CD through the PA during the gig and also stream tracks via Bluetooth from my phone for in between sets. I could remotely change the volume if required.

They send the money by Paypal gift / friends and family. It means theres no charges and ensures they cant claim the money back at a later date.

I usually ask the sender to transfer in GBP. This usually saves you the cost of changing currency (% of total trasnsfer) and any potential losses due to currency fluctuations.

I've got the Puma 900 and love the "Taste" control. You can add snap and clarity or more rounded vintage tones.

Here........SD Pick Up Covers

Thanks. 👍 As long as theres over 1mm adjustment left on the bridge saddles then all is OK.

Lovely looking job you're doing there.....giving me ideas! 🙂 I might have missed it but when you originally removed the finish and sanded the top, did you reduce the thickness of the whole bass to compensate for adding the veneers? (depth of pre-amp holes / bridge height etc)

Did it work before you stripped it? Some close up photos of the wiring etc may help.

It certainly was a good bass and it was Luke Capon I traded with. I think he got rid of it so I've no idea where it is now 😞

This Sidewinder Custom "Melt Top" used to be mine. I bought it in the States and brought it back to the UK, played it for 4 or 5 years then traded it for a Shuker.

I've always had a hankering for one of the 24 fret, 5 string versions but they seem as rare as the proverbial rocking horse doo-doo 🙂

Yet another great deal done with Dan, just like the previous ones we've done. Bought his Status S2 and it arrived in superb condition. He's a veritable gent and a pleasure to chat with. Thanks again!

I have a MV5 (24 fret) and even with the smaller body it doesn't have any neck dive. In fact it balances better than I do 🤣