ahpook

one thing i've had some success with for impedanece matching around fuzzes is an EHX LPB-1. its output impedance is ~10k, about that of a pickup. the downside is that it's not an uncoloured pedal (slight bass cut and mid-boost) and it does invert the polarity of the signal, which can cause problems in effects loops. put the LPB-1 in before the fuzz and engage them together - you may find it tames the tizz a bit.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JtpFOBJA7O8[/media] awesome. it's post-rawk.

[quote name='bagsieblue' timestamp='1391286665' post='2355479'] I've got an old 90's price list giving prices for Fortress and Fortress One. Fortress one being c£100 more made me think this is the active version over the passive version. So, I think the difference is passive / active. That said there is a Fortress R&B which I believe was passive as well!! [/quote] thanks for the info.

Here are my most recent projects - I give them all pseudoscientific names, for the hell of it Firstly the 'Unity Engine': A vero Klon buffer based on a TL072. I've upped the input cap a little to 220n from the layout i followed and improved the supply filtering. Next a the 'Z-Pinch' - a monster bass fuzz. It's a Poodle Parts germanium booster driving a Poodle Parts Woolly Mammoth clone. I orignally had a variable resistor in front of the fuzz al la Masdotron to get round being driven by a buffered pedal, but it never worked properly. I had the Ge booster spare so I upped the input caps and made a stupdily heavy fuzz by chaining them together. Lastly a Mu-Amp. Just called 'The Mu-Amp'. My most successful vero build so far. Did the vero layout myself in DIYLC. Sounds very good on bass - even compresses a little as the gain is increased. I used a Poodle Parts footswitch PCB for this one. I've some gut shots if anyone's interested - I'm not that neat tho !

i saw Russian Circles last year - one of the best live sounds i'd heard in ages, brilliant gig to boot. brian cook sure knows how to get some amazing bass sounds. killer beardage too.

[quote name='Marvin' timestamp='1391198881' post='2354600'] As with most things in life, it's just best to fiddle with your knobs until you get a satisfactory outcome. [/quote]

[quote name='pendingrequests' timestamp='1391171934' post='2354047'] just checked and the Mooer draws that amount of power... [/quote] i do my research.

Oh dear... seperate power supplies it is then !

hotwires have silk (i didn't know they were called that) at both ends - both black.

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1391123019' post='2353667'] I reckon you have clock noise from the Mooer breaking through to the 9V line. You could try wrapping the Mooer's 9v supply cable around a ferrite ring - you can get clip-on ones from Maplin. Either that or different socks [/quote] exactly what i was thinking....although the sock change might work !

EBS MIcroBass ?

in that situation - 1x15, bass, mid and treble controls - i'd be cutting bass straight away and taking it from there. with a PA, even more so (assuming you're just using the amp as a monitor) YMMV as always.

Have you seen [url="http://guitar-machine-heads.com/download/C1ffcfe16X12a3cdeff9eX4465/BassSteg_BassSteg2000_4_saitig.jpg"]this[/url] diagram ?

[quote name='pendingrequests' timestamp='1391110562' post='2353466'] Yeh putting the mooer just after the tuner has helped Andy thanks [/quote] interesting - i'd not have thought it would have made a difference. nice to be surprised - it shows you've still things to learn

[quote name='0175westwood29' timestamp='1391107756' post='2353407'] also you could try supplying the mooer of the tuner its an isolated supply i think so might help. andy [/quote] sadly, i suspect this will be the eventual solution

[quote name='lowdown' timestamp='1391086112' post='2353047'] For balance. [size=4][color=#333333]"What do those two knobs at the front do?" - "They sing and play guitar".[/color][/size] [/quote] shamelessly stolen

the boss should be fine. the mooer claims to be true bypass, so i can only assume it's somehow injecting noise into the power supply. try connecting the mooer to the daisy chain, but not wiring into the signal chain - is it still wurly ?

sounds like the mooer doesn't like the supply it's being fed. it's quite a current-hungry pedal at 128mA - which boss psu are you using ?

I wasn't aware they were different things. To my knowledge there used to be only 3 Fortress models: Fortress One (or just Fortress) - PJ for 4-string JJ for 5 Fortress Masterman - twin J-pickups stuck together in a musicman stylee Fortress Flashback - lipstick pickups and a scratchplate I'm quite happy to be corrected tho...

The bassline to the verse of 'Space (I believe in)' by the Pixies has been rolling round my head all week. bom bom da-dooo bom bom bom http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urJW5ed-5G4

I had a acoustic bass for a few years, admittedly not a top-notch one, but it certainly made me realise that they're [i]very[/i] limited in their application. Great for noodling at home without an amp, but useless unamplified against anything execpt a lightly fingerpicked guitar. If you like the piezo sound, or the look, then go for it, but in my experience they lack more than they have.

If you can get hold of a 2nd-hand Alesis D4 or D5 they will act as trigger to midi converters