Ou7shined

[quote name='oli@bass' timestamp='1322216458' post='1447970'] I guess you won't mind me adding some pics of mine here... (BTW both pics were taken by Mike before shipping them) [b]1981 StingRay[/b] More pics here [url="http://s239.photobucket.com/albums/ff59/oliAtBass/EBMM/B022673/"]http://s239.photobuc...s/EBMM/B022673/[/url] [b]1983 Sabre[/b] More pics here [url="http://s239.photobucket.com/albums/ff59/oliAtBass/EBMM/C004642/"]http://s239.photobuc...s/EBMM/C004642/[/url] [/quote] Hey Oli glad you made it to here. Beautiful basses man. Your Sabre looks almost new.

[quote name='V4lve' timestamp='1322212101' post='1447886'] Anyone bought from these Slovakian guys? They are the only supplier of MM type (capstan nut) rods I can find. [url="http://shop.sollerguitars.com/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/102/products_id/1441standart--material/ns-580-mm.html"]http://shop.sollergu.../ns-580-mm.html[/url] The allen key type are no good cos there there isnt enough space at the heel end to get an allen key in. [/quote] I've not... but their prices do seem very competitive (not looked at their shipping costs yet) so I think I might check out the quality of some of their bits and bobs in the near future. The one from Stewmac I mentioned earlier can be found [url="http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Truss_rods/Adjustable_truss_rods/Hot_Rod_Truss_Rods/Spoke_Nut_Hot_Rod.html"]here[/url]. They are a little dearer but the quality is top notch and the double sleeving means they are less likely to rattle. These Hot Rods do need a relatively deeper recess to sit in so check your dimensions throughly first - you need it to be tight as a gnats.

Simple answer; 95% of the time, yes.

Our German chum setting up viral ads once again?

Follow the [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/159775-sowadya-think/page__hl__norman__fromsearch__1"]white rabbit[/url].

Defil apparently.

Well done... now put that fecking lump hammer away. [quote name='V4lve' timestamp='1322137470' post='1446952'] ....But before that I need to tidy up the mess I made of the heel and see if I can patch it up with a block of maple (completely new ground for me). May resort to something else if that proves too difficult. The good thing is that it will be hidden so just needs to be tidy and structurally sound. Feeling better about this now. [/quote] If you neaten up that hole into a nice rectangle and give me the dimensions I make you up a maple filler block and post it down to you. Just a thought - now you have the t/r out, couldn't you just get someone to weld the snapped bit back together?

The real-world difference is minimal. As Andy above has mentioned your pot value has about as much impact on the tone as the wood does ... ie. pups and strings have an infinitesimally more greater affect. All it means is that the values through the sweep between 0 to 10 is changed, as all you are doing is going from zero resistance to it's top value resistance (whatever it may be) and with a 500k pot at some point during the sweep you will be hitting 250k anyway then as you sweep past it you bleed off less and less top end. You might hear the difference more with guitars than basses (which is probably why you read about it all the time) but in reality you will have a more noticeable impact on the tone bleed off with the choice of capacitor value than you will with a pot.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1322071848' post='1446225'] ....This reminds me of that thread about the number of frets we all have and someone said they did not like playing 24+ fret basses because it made [u]all[/u] the frets feel bunched up [/quote] Us bass players can talk some awful shyte at times eh.

Interesting comparison. I kind of like the Deluxe - sort of in between P and J. I've recently done some design work on a super P with 24 frets and the body reminds me of that.

I was at an auction recently where a similar one went for a tenth of the price.... I'm thinking someones put the comma in the wrong spot, yes?

If there's enough to nip some pliers/moleys onto it, then heating with a soldering iron tip to expand the wood and loosen the stub, then unscrew using the pliers might do the trick. If it's deep down you might just have to drill around it with the smallest diameter bit you can get your hands on then once extracted drill, plug, then re-drill the hole. Also there are screw extractors on the market worth looking into.

[quote name='noelk27' timestamp='1322074493' post='1446272'] Don't know why this lot list items on eBay. Sure, sell lots of small ticket items, but rarely move big ticket stuff. [/quote] Probably for the very reason we are talking about his auctions right now.

[quote name='EssentialTension' timestamp='1322067964' post='1446161'] Which majority are you referring to because there's been some dispute? [/quote] Haha nice one. I think we know which way it will go though. (I also think most of us know that FPTP in this particular poll will leave the real majority feeling a bit had) In years to come we'll look back with fondness to the halcyon days of yore when we once had that cool little "like" button for a while.... which was recieved well enough, so much so that the forum pixies then added a "hate" button too... which sparked off a "debate".... so then we then had to have a poll... which in turn lead to more debate and private lobying... which ultimately ended up with us getting rid of the whole darned thing altogether. Anyhoo..... (NSFW) [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0l7YvlvkE24[/media]

I think the word "respectively" is missing from his title.

I just knew the text was going to be in green the second I saw the pic. Up to his old tricks then. Although to be fair it looks quit nice (apart from the steam-punk control plate) .... not 600 smackers nice though.

Cor lummy. Can't wait to see it in the flesh at Moffat myself. One thing, please don't start a thread with "NBD" in the title... it's so effin' trite. Any nibbles at your 5er?

Previous owners invariably do claim all cracks to be cosmetic... just like dings in the neck never seem to affect playability. This one looks ok from that pic. The crack doesn't seem to be following any obvious weakness in the grain. If this bass has the t/r access in the heel then that should be a good solid lump of wood right there. It does look like some overzealous neck oil application has resulted in a bit of seepage under the nut though which may start to cause the finish to chip away.

[quote name='sk8' timestamp='1322054023' post='1445880'] +1 Oh wait, i should have just liked that............ [/quote] Yeah we all know how you "like" it.

[quote name='synaesthesia' timestamp='1322050986' post='1445800'] Fender used a brass metal strap, not tape, from my recollection. Presumbably because it is stiffer, stronger and adhesive metallic tape was probably not readily available at the time. That said, I used thin 6mm wide copper tape on my '62 RI Jazz. Works perfectly and 'looks' correct. A replacement strap is available to vintage spec if you are worried about being correct to orig. spec. [url="http://angela.com/jazzbassbridgegroundingstrap.aspx"]http://angela.com/ja...ndingstrap.aspx[/url] You could buy a sheet here and cut it yourself. This fella on ebay sells 6mm copper tape really cheap: [b][url="http://tinyurl.com/cel3mss"]http://tinyurl.com/cel3mss[/url][/b] [/quote] I make them all the time using copper tape. They solder like a dream and when stuck to the body are as stiff as the wood they are stuck to (and are fantastic conductors). I was just wondering why a recommendation of a brass strip over copper might be thought to be better.

[quote name='skankdelvar' timestamp='1322051344' post='1445806'] I couldn't agree more. It is a very silly system and I've said so elsewhere. [/quote] I'm tempted to "like " this Skank... but it wasn't surreal enough or mildly evocative of a bygone era. Here...

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1322006796' post='1445515'] Seems like a popularity contest to me... and I doubt that will be what it is intended for and will be discredited. I have seen forums split the camp like this before and then the whole thing that made it a general community ended up as a very small active content.. You might still attract new members so you can appeal to advertisers .................................... You'll get self serving cliques or groups and a herd mentality which might even hunt in packs to promote their own end or products. This needn't be premeditated but that wont stop it. .........which will promote a backlash from a few who then will go off and find another forum and you'll lose good members and be left with a jolly little club... It will be no good thinking...this forum is different because of the people who are here..they all think that. The single most valuable resource here is people and their opnions/experience...diverse as they may be, as that encourages new members. If you lose that..you could become a club and end up like the MM forum [/quote] There is more than a grain of truth to this. I myself have found myself wandering to alternative sites recently - it's a combination of the new "upgrade" and the fact that I feel even less able to speak freely here now with the hate button looming over every post... and not being affiliated to any cliques, it genuinely does feel like that.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1322049810' post='1445772'] [left]It's going to be hard to lose our high-scoring 'Like' totals though, isn't it Skank? [/left] [/quote] Yeah it's a funny old thing this rep system... you make quips all day long and you earn a massive rep score yet if you take time out from your day job to assist people to get their basses working or impart actual knowledge you don't get nowt.