Ou7shined

[quote name='TRBboy' timestamp='1322812018' post='1456053'] Would the pickup be wired in parallel as standard? I thought that series gave a thinner sorta sound, which isn't what I want really. Is it possible to wire up as above but in parallel? [/quote] They just come as they are. For example Stingrays are wired in parallel but SUBs are wired in series... same basic pups but just different wiring options. From what you've said, you have 2 wires joined but not connected to anything else this would indicate that they are wired in series which gives you the "thicker" sound option. If you took your white and sent it to the black and took the red and joined it to the green you would then be running it in parallel - easily done with a simple [url="http://static.zoovy.com/img/guitarelectronics/W500-H540-Bffffff/H/series_parallel.jpg"]switch[/url]... at this point selecting a single coil gets a bit more complicated but it's not impossible. edit : oops got them arse about tit... head fully out of bin now.... hopefully.

Fair point but it kind of does in as much as they designate which coil is which. In my example black and red are one coil and green and white are the other. Also in that diagram they are running in series before you throw the switch and you need to know which is which if you want to include a parallel option too.

[quote name='TRBboy' timestamp='1322787116' post='1456016'] Awesome, thanks again! Now I know you say "simple", but how do the colours correspond? (i really am that useless!) I'm guessing black at one end, green at the other and then white and red in the middle? Completely wrong probably! [/quote] No you are spot on. There's no hard and fast rules about north and south but using the fact that you have a green wire linked to your earth wire you could look at it like this.... north start = black north finish = red south finish = white south start = green bare/shield = self explanatory I'm just guessing at which way round the red and white are but you can work it out more accurately for yourself.

Phew! I thought this was going to be a thread in favour of setting fire to certain Dingwalls.

[quote name='TRBboy' timestamp='1322780715' post='1455959'] Thanks man, that sounds doable, just gotta get my head around what that actually looks like! Is there likely to be a schematic for that online anywhere? I find it easier that way, it's like wire-by-numbers! [/quote] Here's a simple one for split coil only...

Your red and white should be where you introduce the split. Red will be one coil, white the other. Choose which side you want to go for (trail and error is cool as it's 50/50) and wire your switch so that it disengages the red/white connection while sending your chosen colour to the board where that black goes in for one of the colour selection or to the earth/pot for the other - this can be determined with a multimeter. If it's not the coil you want (tap test with a metal object - Allen key) switch to the other colour.

I think the Nordys plus the ACG pre would make an awesome combo .... but it would be a severely modern tone and probably not what the OP is after.

[quote name='TRBboy' timestamp='1322775256' post='1455870'] Oooohhh! That would be ideal! I was expecting you to say that there would be no chance of getting anywhere near that sort of tone! [/quote] Well I wouldn't say it will nail it... but it might get close. I can get a solid sc P tone with my L-1000 when I go to split. Here's a rough comparison between my pup position and yours.

[quote name='TRBboy' timestamp='1322774398' post='1455847'] Thanks Ou7shined, I guess I'm more interested in splitting it to use as a single coil than switching to series really, although if it's easy I may as well do it all at the same time! I don't have any measurements to back this up, but I think the pickup on my Sandberg might be slightly further forward than on a 'ray, looking at the distance between the bridge saddles and pickup. [/quote] Fair doos. Yeah I think it seems to fall somewhere between the MM and P spots. You might end up with a usable sc P tone.

[quote name='bremen' timestamp='1322773536' post='1455831'] Out of interest: In the MM position, do you hear a significant difference between the two windings? [/quote] I don't think I've tried it in that position.... matron.

[quote name='geofio' timestamp='1322773460' post='1455828'] hi ou7shined, thanks very much for that , thats a relief, what was the biggest difference you noticed with the bridge?? cheers george [/quote] Np. The biggest difference? After I self fitted the BA I then had a bridge which actually lined up with the rest of the guitar.

I had one on mine. Oodles of room.

Series/Parallel is ok but you might want to experiment with it first with your bass as it might not seem worth the agro. I find in the MM spot it doesn't have a massive impact (just loud/quiet to put it crudely) but in the P spot it yields more definable results. A push/pull knob would allow you to include a switch into your circuit without having to drill any fresh holes... plus it's reversible if you decide not to go with it. If you wanted to go and do it anyway, I use a 3 way DPDT (on/on/on) switch for it on my guitars.

[quote name='rubis' timestamp='1322693228' post='1454723'] .... but is it right to call it a Wal? [/quote] Well, there's a noob trying to sell a 70's Fender P on here who would think that it is.

You've misunderstood what I meant about "harmonically pleasing" which is ok as I was being intentionally vague about it - I use a bit of theory and physics not just my ears (which are obviously useless by your presumption anyway)... I have no idea about the 22 fret 24 fret neck example you mentioned but I do know (and I though most people did too) that you can't just swap them about and Bob's yer auntie.... Tonewood argument? No, there's no argument, you're just having a pop at me and my sh*t ears... Oh my goodness look at the time... I've got basses to build.

[quote name='Grand Wazoo' timestamp='1322665593' post='1454156'] [b]I am rich!!![/b] [/quote] Yes, yes, we get it already.

[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1322663793' post='1454120'] But the "Sweet spot" moves every time you fret a note changing where the harmonics lie. Besides that Pups move position depending on who makes the instrument. There is no hard fast rule they should be in position "X" . Even look at Fenders. Two positions of the Bridge pup on a Jazz. On a P the split is in a different position to the single and then the Telebass has it at the neck. That's before you get into things like reverse Ps . There is no right or wrong position just what sound right and doesn't to the ears of the listener. As long as the 12th fret is put in the middle distance it would work. [/quote] A lot of R&D has gone into finding the opitmum placing for pups. Hence the need for things like Leo's test-bed bass... When I rout for a pickup (unless otherwise directed - MM sweet spot, P bass sweet spot etc) I place it in a harmonically pleasing position. Obviously there is no one defining sweet spot but you can't just go banging it in any old place, because it just doesn't sound right - I learned this the hard way. But you look that way my deary and I'll look this. AFAIA there is no system yet available where the hardware automatically auto-intonates to the the played fret so this argument about shifting harmonics is moot as there is little we can do about it. It's about as helpful to the cause as saying avionics is pointless because planes can't go backwards. (I have no idea where that example came from ) ... I guess this is the point where you say "Ah but MIG-29's can fly backwards".... then I remember I have work to do.

[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1322662334' post='1454090'] It would if the neck is made specifically. [/quote] Well no. Because the pups should be placed in a "sweet spot" which in relation to the harmonic distance between the nut and bridge. A custom neck and shifting the bridge will work.... but moving the bridge on a headless ain't as easy as all that, leaving you with the option of re-routing for the pups.

[quote name='andybassdoyle' timestamp='1322661836' post='1454082'] IF you did it, which seems unlikely, what would you actually gain. [b]It must be easier to simply switch the neck[/b] or the bass? Don't close any doors you don't have to close etc... ?? [/quote] That won't work either as the bridge and pups will be in the wrong places relative to each other and the neck too.

[quote name='4 Strings' timestamp='1322610037' post='1453635'] Just a note about my Jaydee, the neck is mahogany coated in lacquer and the fingerboard ebony - which sinks in water. There are no scratches or breaks in the lacquer but the neck still moved. Clearly the wood still changed with temperature and moisture regardless of a finish, in my case anyway, which surprised me. Its normally kept in the music room which is only heated when I'm in it and can be freezing at other times, but no issues (with any basses). [/quote] Yep there are many factors which can cause it and we've only touched upon 2 of them and not all basses are susceptable... although your fluctuating temps in your music room would be a good starter. If you could maintain a steady temp in there you might see big improvements.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1322604602' post='1453549'] That would be my first plan then, neck off, airing cupboard, 1200 grit wet and dry all the playing area of the neck, back in the airing cupboard then liberal coat of gunstock oil. Check the wheel of fortune works in [i]both[/i] directions using a long straight edge then refit and see how it goes [/quote] A sound plan.

[quote name='fryer' timestamp='1322600923' post='1453463'] I've tried a capo, and the frets and intonation are fine. Re the strings, I am going to fit the adaptor so I can use single ball end strings. Just got to have a look at the truss rod. Not sure about the dot markers. Where's my saw. [/quote] Before and after pics please.