Ghost_Bass

I use this one: https://en.audiofanzine.com/stand-rack/rockstand/rs-23010b/medias/pictures/a.play,m.524039.html It's nice as it can be adjusted for different heights and different footprint sizes. It can also be used as a tilt stand with one of the booms raised and the other lowered.

I had pedaltrain in my hands a couple of times and own the HB so i can safely assure you that there's almost any difference in quality appart from the logo silkscreened in the side (and the spaceship logo looks cooler in my eyes hehehe). The gig bag is indeed very nice and feels roadworthy. Buy with confidence.

In all fairness i don't play lowrider style, i lift the neck for better access and can tune the bass without having to take it off, hehehe: As you can see in the pic i don't hang the bass directly in front of my belly, i have it a bit to my side making access easier but i was already doing it before owning a 35" bass. About 15 years separating these two pics... now i'm feeling old... great to see my bassface hasn't changed though!

Following the link you posted here's Sandberg's reply to the qustion of the grooved ZF: So, the reasoning i'm seeing here is that the ZF ie grooved to bring down the action to the best possible height. I'm sure the optimal height won't be the same for every string so i understand the point of the groves over a plain (smaller) fret but in that case i also see a point when other say that they might aswell have made it without the ZF and add a brass (or even steel) nut leveled to the optimal action...

No! Like it was pointed in many threads before, the tension put in the neck by the strings is way bigger than the weight of the bass hanging by the headstock. Just don't try to swing yourself around the room tarzan-style using the bass as a rope. I'm sure the wall hanger would brake and you could hurt yourself in the fall (the bass would be fine though).

I'm a short guy and have no problems reaching the first fret on my 35" TRB. After getting used to it other basses feel like flimsy guitars...

If it's a bolt-on bass you can buy a new neck with the correct fret spacings for 35" and would need to move the bridge (or not if the neck can be custom made for that effect). It may end up unbalancing the bass and cause neck dive. You're better off buying a new bass.

Can you carefully drill out the head of the nails so you can lift the metal strip? I know you said they're headless nails but they need to have a bit of a head to be able to fix the strip. Can you post a close-up picture of the strip without the rubber so we can see the fixing method? Doing this you can remove the strip and the tolex with minimum damage (but have to be very carefull and patient in the drilling process). After removing the tolex you can nail the remains of the nails further in and re-aplly the strip with new nails or small screws a bit to the side of the original fixtures.

Yep! Try to fix it yourself the way you described first. It will be the cheaper and non-destroying method. If it comes to that take it to a good luthier that you know will be able to make a good job of routing out the skunk stripe, replce the rod and refinish the neck like the original.

True, as a portuguese i can confirm this info.

Answering the OT, it's not necessary to have a bass to record, It will depend of the type of bass lines you're playing. Simple lines without bells and whistles, just holding the root and some walking bass, can be played well in a keyboard. A real bass guitar will bring more options to the table, using diferent techniques you can get sounds that the keyboard can't reproduce properly, you'll have more dynamic control over the notes and sounds. But you already bought a bass so enjoy it and use it, it may help inspire new lines and options on your recordings.

Only donside for me in a PJ setup is that the bridge pickup isn't a H. A PH setup (with reversed P, if i'm chosing) is the best of everything especially with a coil tap on the H for added flexibility if a traditional Jazz sound is required. Oh, and 5 strings and if it needs to be passive a stacked vol/tone for each pickup and light and the neck has to be vintage tinted and... Thats derailing the thread...

Anyway... problem solved! Easy!

You can go cheaper without going lower quality. Thomann now offers it's take on the Pedaltrain, it's branded Harley Benton Spaceship. they have diferent sizes, the boards come with gigbags included and they make bundles with PSUs. https://www.thomann.de/gb/cases_for_guitar_effects_guitars.html?sw=harley benton spaceship They also have them with hard cases. Just got one for myself and it looks and feels well made and roadworthy.

Just spit it in the face of the punter and shatter the glass in the floor in front of him... that will teach him!

Just grab the pint they place on the sub and drink it yourself. After a couple they'll stop leaving them there.

If everybody has monitors there's no need to have a PA in the back, it will only make things worse and muddy the stage sound. If it's too loud for the OP, especialy since he's using his rig to fill the room, then the backline needs to be turned down, a lot.

Been using D'Addarios practicly since i started playing bass. Had the usual experimentation period in the beginning with other brands but found that the price/timbre/lifetime ratio offered by D'Addario is the best one. In all these years i only got one dead B string in a set. Got it from Thomann so they were the ones i contacted with the issue. Next day a replacement string was in the post, no questions asked.

More like a hybrid, getting both plusses: the sound of a fretted note and the stability of a nut.

The way i see it having a bit of grove cut in the zero fret will prevent the string from moving a bit to the sides (because it would be anchored by the nut further back without the grooves). In my mind this will help keep the tunning more accurate and stabilized. I don't think Sandberg are missing the trick here, in fact i think they may be on to something.

- Load van - 30m to 2h00m travel to venue; - Setup gear, PA - Soundcheck - Have dinner and a couple pints - Play gig for almost 3h - Wait for pub to start emptying whilst having another couple of pints - Tear down stage gear - Load van - 30m to 2h00m back home *plus, on fridays i get to do this after an 8h work day Never had problems sleeping, too tired for thoughts.

I'm very glad you ended up with the proper fix for your problem, this is how it should have been handled after the first contact. Kudos to Eude for leading you in the right direction. One more win for BC Enjoy your "new" rig!

I think i've said this before, Ashdown let a faulty piece of gear leave their factory (it may work but it's faulty because it can't operate with the installed ext speaker out without blowing the amp), it shouldn't have been sold in the first place. The only way to fix this is for Ashdown to send a courier pick up the combo at the OP's home, have it shipped to them and replace the driver for a suitable 8Ohm unit that's designed for that enclosure, and then ship it back to the OP. All this FOC and if they value their reputation adding a cover for the combo or another complementary gift would only suit well with them. If it was my combo i wouldn't accept anything less from them and i would go all the possible ways to have this situation solved. Their position on this and the way they're trying to avoid the responsability is very concerning. One brand in my not to buy list!

There's this, they may have something that works for you: http://www.customearprotection.co.uk/applications/music/

Not if they're turned off. From what i understood from the OP the band doesn't go all in the PA (he said if he had to get headphones he would need a mic to pick the band's sound) he just wants to reduce the overall noise level. appart from the industrial hearing protection a cheap set of wireless headphones should do a similar thing and wont look so daft.