Ghost_Bass

Yamaha BB1000S - got it in a trade of a Ken Smith for a TRB5P+BB. Thought i would keep the desired TRB5P and move on the BB to recover some funds. What a sound! Best P i've ever heard and the bridge pickup works all the magic. Has been out more times than the TRB too, still hasn't taken the place of my main bass, a TRB5PII. EDIT: can't wait for the Flexsteels to wear out so i can fit some halfrounds and bring in the rumble!

I AB'd the cables. Even some cheap warwick patch cables were making less noise than the George L's. Bought the EBS ones due to their slim design that allows me to fit all 6 pedals in that board and haven't noticed noise when powering with individual PSU's but i'll have another try to see if that's really true. I must admit i was sceptical of such small and thin cables, they don't have a big core area but being EBS it gave me some confidence to try. Were you using any 18V or big amp (+300mA) pedals with those patches?

Looks like a no go at the ISO-1 then... here's one of the reviews in Thomann's site:

The HB ISO-1 looks perfect for my board, it has the size, the outputs, all my pedals run at 9V neg. center but need to check if it's really isolated like @rmorris pointed out.

I started having noise issues rescently, never had them before. First thing i found that reduced a lot of noise was to replace my George L's for the EBS ones, now i'm using EBS in all patches but @dannybuoy's comment has got me rethinking it. I've tried separating the pedals trough several PSU's that i have and the noise goes away. That's the main reason i was considering getting a new isolated PSU. Like i've stated i've been using the same PSU for the past 10 years so i don't know what's new on the market these days. I've looked at the CIOKS DC5 but i would have to daisychain two pedals in order to feed my board.

Hi everybody. I'm looking for some comments on choosing a new PSU for my pedalboard. I've been using a daisy-chain type 3A PSU that i bought from "effectpowersupplies.co.uk" almost 10 years ago and it still works fine but i'm up to 6 pedals now and i'm starting to get noise from lack of individual isolation in the outputs. My pedalboard is a Harley Benton, copy of a Pedaltrain and has space and fittings underneath for a PSU. It's this one: And here's a pic of the real thing: I've been looking in Thomann (it's better for me as i can get a joint order with the rest of the band and get free shipping) and i'm between these two PSU's: https://www.thomann.de/pt/harley_benton_powerplant_flex.htm : https://www.thomann.de/pt/harley_benton_powerplant_iso_1_pro.htm : I'm leaning for the second one, the ISO-1 as it clearly states that all outputs are isolated, not sure about the first one, no info on that. The powerplant Flex seems to have a better layout to link the cables though. So, what would the BC community choose? What are your thoughts about them? Does anybody has either of these and can make a small review? I'm also open to other sugestions that would fit in the pedalboard and won't cost much more than the cheapest pedal in that board Thanks for looking Marco

I allways cut the tip of the strings. I'm sure they're cut during manufacturing also so i don't see how it can affect the core. Never had one brake or slip. I allways make sure i gan get 2 to 3 turns around the tunning post plus the bit the goes inside the center of the post.

First thought is that you have crosstalk between piezzo and magnetic. Either a blend pot for both circuits before sending to the jack or a couple of resistors to avoid crosstalk on the end of each circuit before soldering on to the jack - kind of like the old fender stacked vol/tone circuit. This is from my mind, haven't spend time investigating those circuits you have there to be sure of what i'm writting.

And why not? If you have the space and are willing to spend a bit insulating it and making it more comfortable it's a valid solution with the plus side that you'll be making noise outside of the house

for £5-600 you can get a used Fender that will be way better than you affinity. Just lurk around the FS secction. A brand new Squier (VM, CV, artist, etc.) will be less than your budget and also be a lot better.

Tough one. But you need to stand your ground and tell her you need a music room. Being a bass player is part of your life and you need to have the proper conditions for that activity. If she says there's no space available then tell her you need to build one that can't be taken by anything else. Probably you should have taken this stand in the past in one of the occasions you had to lose your room but there's still time to get it again. Tell her that with a dedicated music room you can have all your gear stored there out of her way and you can rehearse/learn new songs in a closed space where she won't have to put up with your noise. good luck!

Wasn't this made a few weeks back? For me it's all about the music and the people first. Start with great musicians, become a family over time, enjoy playing together songs everyone likes - result: a booked agenda earning good money playing for packed venues. For me this is the natural order of things. My band doesn't aim to play every day or every weekend, if we wanted we could but that would involve lowering our price. We leave the house only for a fair pay and enjoy ourselves everytime.

If you're going to the trouble of working on the fretboard applying epoxy why don't you cover the entire fretboard? It would be the best way of adressing that issue and end up with a job well made. you know, like they say, if you're going to do the work might aswell do it properly

WOW! What a vision! I agree that removing those brass plates will make it look a lot better and avoid the danger of injuring yourself when plugging/unplugging the jack. A good luthier should be able to do the job Norris has described in the previous post to an almost invisible finish. It's just a matter of how much are you willing to spend on it.

Just look at the the tuners from the back of the headstock. When the tunning peg (pointing upwards) is offset to the left of the axl it's a L, when it's offset to the right its a R. Not sure if this is the proper reference but its how i distiguish them.

Kudos to you for not settling whith what you had and also to Ashdown for presenting you with a working solution for your issue, even though there was nothing wrong with the amp, as there may be some people that aim for the sound this amp has from factory. This may be a helpfull topic for others in your position.

How's the DI out in your amp? Does it have the switch for mic/line? If you could send it in "line" and in "pre" then you could cut all the lows you want in the EQ without affecting the signal to the sub. There are a few amps in wich the "send" output is post-EQ so you would be cutting lows before sending to the sub. This is how i would be doing if i wanted a similar result from my Genz Benz head. I don't know your amp so you should check these things first.

+1 In my case i set the amp's EQ flat and use the bass on-board preamp to EQ the sound (in honesty i only boost a bit of bass and the rest is kept flat also). I don't do this because the amp's preamp is bad, quite the opposite actually , i do this for two main reasons: 1 - i can change, tailor, adjust my tone anytime without having to turn my back to the audience mid gig. 2 - doing this i can be sure that the sound i'm getting from my rig is as close to the soung going to FOH as possible.

Glock is excelent, their "flat" setting is as flat as you could get and there's no drop in volume when changing from (flat) active to passive. Tonal versatility is huge. My absolute favorite even though i don't own one at the time and won't replace the stock preamp in my TRB.

Why? If you have a designated space to store your gear why leave it in the way on purpose? If you keep your gear stored everytime you have the time/chance it will be more likely that your missus won't bother you about gear left in the hallway in those rare occasions she may find it there. Regarding the OP, only solution i see to that question is to move the gear directly from the storage to the boot of the car without stopping in the hall. Or rent a storage unit far away from your house whre you can grow your collection without her knowlege Good luck!

Good luck, hope you get it up and running soon. Please post here all the relevant info Andy has given you and the results you get from your tests so it may be helpfull for somebody else in the future with a similar problem.

It isn't uncommon. In more than 10 years using D'Addarios i've had one new set come in with a dead B string. Contacted seller and a replacement string was in the mail free of charge the next day. Like someone mentioned, PM D'Addario UK in this forum, it will be faster to get the issue pointed out to them and i'm sure they will solve it ASAP.

Try contacting Jeff Genzler, maybe through the Genzler site or facebook page. Don't know if he will be willing to assist you but you could be lucky. www.genzleramplification.com www.facebook.com/genzleramplification/

Yep! Tobacco burst (brown burst) + 3-ply black-white-black PG is as good as it can possibly get. Replace the neck for one with maple fretboard and with "vintage tinted" laquer and it's my favourite colour combo for any Fender instrument.