Ghost_Bass

Been using Shaller strap locks for a few years. I love the concept but had some minor issues. The nut in mine comes loose from time to time, and even using a wrench to tighten them they get loose after a few weeks. I use a Minotaur strap that's a bit thick but it shouldn't be a problem, but every time a step on stage my routine is "pick up the bass - insert jack - re-tighten strap screws by hand - tune bass". Luckly i've found these new locks in Thomann a few seconds before doing the checkout in a recent order so one of the new sets is comming my way as i'm typing. Good thing i spotted them last week as i've only seen this thread today. I think the grub screw on the new nut is the key to solve the main problem with the old ones.

Fender Jazz = 2 pickups =/= one trick pony Enough said

Maybe try messaging @KiOgon on this forum, he does some nice wiring looms for basses, maybe he can build you what you need.

Sorry but i don't know enough about electronics to recomend a resistor value, the ones i used was in a passive independent stacked vol/tone circuit. You have an active circuit there so i can't say for sure the same values would be OK. Best option is to do some searches in the web and try to get an opinion from real techs. Here's a starting point with some links to help you: It's an old thread, so no pictures since the site upgrade but will get you some info on the subject. Cheers

I owned a late 70's italian Eko (gibson EB copy) with this system in a one-way truss rod so the idea isn't exactly new. I too wish more builders would use it.

Better ask Jeff Genzler directly. He won't take too long to answer your e-mail.

I would bet it's a plywood body with a (paper?) laminate on top for the sunburst... the color is all kinds of wrong

Well... when a Fender sets you back close to 1.5k and doesn't have half the QC, Fit&Finish and attention to detail i can't say that Musicman is an expensive brand. They're absolutely flawless basses. well worth the 2k price tag in comparisson with the competition. It's still too rich for my pocket though.

I still want to own a SR5 in the future but mine doesn't exist (yet). EBMM are getting closer though. Now, they just need to take this, put a second humbucker and shave off the weight down to the 8-8.5lbs of the new line: Edit: Oh! and add a Pan pot too!

In 2010 i bought a SR5 new, online, in a store that i believe no longer exist (guitarandampshop.co.uk or something very similar) for something close to £1150 with P&P to Portugal included. Still wish i hadn't sold it but it weighted a ton and some. At that time there was an identical one (except it had rosewood fb) in a local store with a horrible setup priced at 2300€!

What about a 5HH with the standard OVAL pg? Why they keep that huge piece of plastic on the 5ers? Looks so much better with the oval, like the Classics released a few years.

Ouch! My headstock....

Already forgetting about your roots???

Here's mine (beer included) 🤣:

How's that even possible? There are no bolts to show... 😂🤣

How's the preamp in that amp. A Fender tone stack type by any chance? If so true "flat" should be around Bass 2/10 , Mid 10/10 , High 3/10. If not, there's nothing wrong in pushing the mids a bit for bite or highs for snap.

Er... hummm... ...carry on. as you were.

I may be wrong and i'm not an electric engineer but poweramp clipping can and will blow the PSU and/or other power stage components. I know it for the wrong reasons, back in my youth i managed to blow a PSU on a practice amp by feeding it with a very high line signal... lesson learned.

I wasn't talking about preamp clip, i was refering to power stage clip. Preamp clip is just distortion, power amp clip is what can harm an amp. But now that you mention i think i may have missunderstood the OP. He may be talking about preamp clip. edit: english is not my main language

There's no standard in amp design for the clipping but i'll leave you with the an idea of what most manufacturers state about clip lights: There's nothing wrong in getting it to come on from time to time but make sure it also turns off. When you get the light constantly on it's time to back off the gain a bit before you can harm the amp.

Yep, manufacturers are paying attention to what players are looking for. Lot's of people using PT and looking for small footprints. Bar/pub stage area is premium in most places. I'm guessing there are more options comming up in the future smaller, with more outputs and more affordable.

Thanks for the tip. Didn't know about Strymon, they do look very cool and 500mA per out is excelent. I've seen that they also have a smaller and cheaper 5 way PSU: https://www.thomann.de/pt/strymon_ojai.htm it's just 3mm taller than the Zuma and 30€ cheaper. But the Truetone is still in the lead, i don't have high current pedals in my board, can't say for sure but they all must be between 50 and 100 mA. Keep those ideas comming, there must be many like me that are unaware of the offerings of real isolated PSUs for our boards. Cheers

There's this one: https://www.thomann.de/pt/truetone_1_spot_pro_cs6.htm I've been on their site and they say it's isolated like the bigger CS7 and CS12 but in a low profile that'll fit underneath a Pedaltrain. It has 6 outs at 2x500mA 2x100mA and 2x200mA, 4 of them are switchable between 9 or 12V. looks like a winner at 139€. Any comments? this thread is starting to look like a monologue appart from the precious help from a couple of BC'ers. I'll back off on the posts for a bit.

Just another question, if i was to choose the Powerplant Jr, wich is galvanically isolated, wich two pedals should i get less noise sharing the same output? I'm guessing the tuner is one of them and will be turned off when playing and the Compressor should be avoided as it's allways on. All other pedals are used very little appart from the GR wich gets most use. Only pedal combo i'm using ATM is octave in to wah in a bridge of one song.

I've sent a mail to Thomann and got a reply: I'm very happy for this type of communication from them, a fast reply without any marketing BS. It's just a shame that both suggestions from them cost close to 200€, so one more boutique pedal in that board when we look at it. I'll take a look at the smaller CIOKS offerings to see if any has enough outputs for my board, the DC5 would be perfect if it had just one more...