Ghost_Bass

You should have either 8 same size screws or 4 short (for E and G strings) and 4 long (for A and D strings). Having just one longer thatn the rest makes me think it's a replacement added by someone at some point, not a problem though, just use it on the A or D string as it's the saddle that may need to be raised the most.

Try this: Put the old neck in the bass, aply a bit of masking tape either side of the 12th fret on the body of the bass, trace a line where the 12th fret is. Swap the neck for the new one and measure the diference from the "new" 12th fret and the line you've traced, this should tell you (ballpark) how much the neck has to move and to wich side in order to intonate correctly with the position of the bridge. You can then decide what to do, either move the bridge or shave a bit of the neck heel if it has room for it without messing up the truss. The most important thing, take pictures and post here for us to see what's happening and advise you with more info. good luck.

I alway take my best gear with me to a bad venue as we only play them once (after finding out it's bad we don't want to be rebooked) but i have taken the backup gear to open air gigs without a cover above stage due to the moisture that forms during the night. Main gear: Yamaha TRB5PII - GB Shuttle 9.2 - Barefaced S12T - Pitchblack/MXR M288/3Leaf GR/DG B3K/EBS MC Backup gear: Yamaha TRB5P - Promethean P5110 - Zoom B3 Main gear isn't vintage or boutique but the backup gear isn't cheap also, mind.

Bought my Korg Pitchblack a few years ago (almost 10 IIRC) before the apearance of polytuners, never had the chance to try one of the TC as my Korg refuses to miss a beat, build like a tank and very very accurate pitch, also extremely easy to see in the dark.

I once lend a bass to a well known PT band (well known over here of course) as their roadies forgot to pack the basses in the van. I got a call from a friend who is friends with the band members asking me to help them out. As luck would have it at that time i was the owner of a Fender P (the guy only played with P's) and i was happy to let him have it. They came to my town for lunch (the gig was 30km away from me) and i had coffe with them and talked for a while. It was very nice to meet the guys behing the band (who i knew since i was a kid), they were good and simple people and i had a great bit with them. I got a signed CD and book from them as a gift. So, my claim to fame is, if i hadn't lend the bass [size=1](and they couldn't get another on time)[/size] the gig wouldn't happen, LOL

EBS Multicomp always ON in multiband mode with internal trim pots at Low-50%/High-75%, Comp a bit under 50% and Gain at 0%. Lets me keep all my dynamics and doesn't squash the attack. It takes care of all the peaks in the highs region but keeps the sound clean with all the harmonics. I don't use the comp to mask technique, in fact i would prefer not to use it but it does make a big diference playing live using other FX as OD and Wah as it doesn't let the sound get too harsh and have unpleasant peaks. Great for slap though i hardly ever do it.

The flag has become an icon of the Redneck/white supremacy ideology but it's also associated with all the bad things supported by the confederates in the civil war. Even in the remake of Dukes of Hazzard they did this scene to try to keep General Lee faithfull to the original but detract the characters from the politics/ideology: [media]http://youtu.be/Us7v8vQpmZg[/media] Of course they couldn't fully explain why the characters (suposed not connected with the movement) called the car "General Lee" in the first place. Going back OT, i would stop using the flags, the recent situations are creating a boiling pressure coocker close to explosion, you never know who will come through the pub doors everynight, it could easily lead to a very delicate and unconvenient situation...

Not a bad thing if the band members have a healthy relationship. In my band we've all been dep'd at least once (except the singer, he's the show so he can't be dep'd). We allways tried to find the best musician for those jobs (yes, better than the current musicians in the band) as there's a better change he can nail the songs easier. We have a great relationship as musicians and especially as friends so nobody is woried about getting sacked for a better option, it would never happen. It's a very rare thing to happen as we share a band google account and have the callendar sinc'd in our mobile phones, when it did happen (very well payed gigs at the last minute) it was allways the unavailable musician that gave the thumbs up for the booking with a dep as nobody wants to prevent the others to earn a little bit more money. I guess there are other bands with diferent friend/work relationship where this could turn in to a problem.

I allways do it, it's a fun way to give them that first stretch so they settle in tune

If you don't want to spend a lot of cash keep your current filter and add a used EHX Bassballs to the collection. Used without the OD it puts out a decent down sweep sound. If you want a one solution pedal i can't say enough good things about 3Leaf, i've had them all and still prefer my MK1 3Leaf Groove Regulator, sounds amazing!

Yesterday i walked in my studio and remembered this thread when i noticed my old battered Boxer15 so i do still own TE gear!

I don't need to worry about this anymore. My dream bass is my current (and forever) TRB5PII wich could have only two (impossible) mods: It could be way lighter and it could have some kind of magic active/passive switch that not only bypassed the preamp as also the active pickups... These days, whenever i'm looking to get another bass i just make sure it has this stamped on the headsotck:

Had a TE rig consisting of a GP12 300W head, a 2x10"T and a 1x15" cab a long time ago. Why i don't own it anymore? - Too heavy to carry singlehanded; - The thing people call "heft" to me it's just mud and noise that upsets everybody on stage and gets in to every single mic; - I go through the PA, don't need 1/4 of the power it put out; - Too big to fit the booth; - Impossible to store at home in a small corner; - Can't do a "one travel" with all my gear; - Lots of knobs, not very easy to hit a great tone out of the box; I do loved owning mine and remember it with a warm feeling in my heart but for me it's Class-D and Neo cabs all day long now!

This is how it works [b]for me[/b]: I set my bass EQ pretty much flat with my choice of strings in order to achieve the widest tonal range possible (it helps having a full range bass that doesn't have a strong build-in colour). Amp EQ is also left flat unless there's some freq ressonating in the room. I can go from reggae to rock by using the pan knob and adjusting my right hand, no need to fiddle with other knobs. I'll never nail the exact tone for the song but i don't worry about it, it's best to have a great almost there tone that compliments the rest of the band and the room.

If you really have to use screws for the pickup cavity (and i think it's a good idea as it's a cover that shouldn't need to come out very often) use small, black screws and fit them over the darker lines of wood. It should give a more discret, almost invisible, look to them. But you should have thought of this already

I wouldn't say that boosting mids is "the answer". I would say that owning gear properly chosen so that it puts out the closest to your tone possible in "flat" is the main key to this. If you find yourself boosting mids means that you have a "scooped bass" (see how i didn't took the change to make a joke and say "you have a F****r... ) and need to change bass or just the type of strings. Regarding Froggy's post, looking at his EQ i would say straight away that the 30Hz slider is there to be cutted thus cleaning his signal instantly. Personally i would also cut a very big lot on the 60Hz slider. All the remaining slider i would leave flat and listen to the tone taking away all the things that i think is too much before adding other frequencies. Somebody mentioned the old Trace elliot user manual in a previopus post and they're spot on in the way they advise people to aproach their EQ, 3 critical rules that, if followed, will result in the best tone possible: #1 - The sub-bass sliders (between 30 and 80 Hz) are there to be used as cut as it will result in a cleaner tone without mud or boom. the same applies to the top end sliders, they're to be cutted until hiss and other noises disapear; #2 - Start with flat EQ, adjust gain before everything else. Listen to tone and take away everything that's exagerated before adding whats missing (if the tone is to trebly you should remove highs instead of adding lows first. After each change in EQ re-check the gain and adjust to it's optimal level; #3 - Don't use extreme curves on the sliders, allways center your EQ curve around the "0db" line for optimal performance. If your desired tone "curve is too low or too high on the sliders move all sliders so they center around the 0dB line; Adjust gain again, just to be sure... Can't remember the exact words but this is the filosophy i've bee using and it works very well.

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1499165943' post='3329607'] But nobody except you will ever notice ... [/quote] That's no excuse, you're just trying to come up with things to justify your opinion. Everybody knows that the bassplayer can leave the stage mid-song to go to the bathroom or have a pint and nobody will notice, not even the rest of the band...

I never boost bass on my EQ and i don't cut mids. First EQ change i do in the mixer is to turn on the HPF on the 70~80Hz region. Who said that bass was there to be felt, not heard?!!

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1497905333' post='3321267'] Have you figured out exactly which pedal is causing the issue yet? Because you'll want to know how much current it draws. There are two isolator tips I'm aware of, one cheap: [url="http://www.diago.co.uk/adaptors/isolator.html"]http://www.diago.co....s/isolator.html[/url] And one expensive: [url="http://www.thegigrig.co.uk/timelord-c2x15357225"]http://www.thegigrig...ord-c2x15357225[/url] However the Diago is only rated for 110mA max but the GigRig Timelord can handle 999mA. GigRig also produce the 'Virtual Battery' but I can't find a power rating for it. On the other hand, you can get an isolated supply for less dough than the GigRig Isolator, this one has come recommended by a fellow BCer in a nearby thread: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301907679302"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301907679302[/url] [/quote] Would the diago isolator tip remove some of that commomn noise we get when turning on the OD/Dist pedal?

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1499119408' post='3329408'] Decent question, David. I'm not sure my experience counts for much but the conventional wisdom is probably based on historical failures of truss rod threads, nuts and allen sockets. The problem isnt as much the rod itself, but the forces involved in turning the nut when it is under maximum tension is always going to be much higher than when it is under less tension. If everything is spot on, it will be OK - the nut or allen socket not soft, the correct and unworn spanner or allen key, the threads on the rod and nut to correct hardness and no dirt, corrosion, etc.. But sometimes one or more of those is not spot on and if the thread strips or breaks or the allen socket rounds off...well then there's a very serious problem. All that slackening off the strings does is reduce that risk. And it's perhaps more about how serious the consequence of failure is than how likely it is to happen. As an aside, there are some basses and guitars where I personally don't slacken off - you can generally tell by how stiff the nut feels whether it is a potential problem. There are others where I would always slacken off. And sometimes it depends on the value - the beautiful and valuable '86 Wal I'm doing some neck work on at the moment is one of those... [/quote] Great answer, i do the same. Normally don't slacken the strings unless the truss rod nut looks chewed or rusty. The use of a correct size (with a snug fit) key is essencial to a good result. I've been known, when the correct allen key is a bit loose, to grab the next size allen key and file it down for a snug fit. Keys are cheap, replacing a truss rod isn't!

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1499164083' post='3329585'] Why on earth would you touch the controls on a bass? Set and forget, guys, set and forget. [/quote] I do it with the amp, pedals, bass EQ and volume but i do like to use the balance knob for my benefit. If my bass allows me to change the colour of my tone to fit the music style why on earth would i want not to use it? [quote name='Highfox' timestamp='1499164622' post='3329593'] I think that depends on the tone you are after for the song. I go some reggae, blues, rock, funk, so for me I sometimes like a different sound for each [/quote] Precisely!

I love (the idea of) this amp, on paper it has everything i need as my tone comes from the bass and hands, only need amp to make it sound louder and correct the room accoustics if needed. Haven't jumped on the wagon due to reading comments about the overated 800W power and fan noise. If ashdown re-releases this with the new'ish 700W ICE poweramp module and a noiseles fan (c'mon, if i can get a cheap noiseless fan for my PC very easily what's the deal with using an old spitfire engine as fan!!!) i'll jump on the bandwagon!

I prefer a Balance pot as i use a lot of diferent tones troughout the gig, from full bridge for some funkiness to almost full neck for some reggae with a lot of prefered combinations in between for everything else. I just coudn't get all those tones and variations with the turn of a single knob with a VVT and keep my volume unchanged (well, in theory i could but it would be way more time consuming and more knob fiddling involved).

Well... i would rather not play at all than give poor, distorted, fart sounds to the audience. If it can't sound good it shouldn't sound at all, kudos to class-D for that!

[quote name='fleabag' timestamp='1498744116' post='3326773'] Thanks Terry So like the poster above , Norris, who had some mod done to his Peavey which was doing something similar , can i get someone to add a mod to the amp somewhere ? A capacitor across the power switch according to mr Norris ? [/quote] I don't hink you need a mod, your amp should already have a filter to avoid this thump, what you need is to take the amp to a tech for a checkup. I'm not technical but i suspect you have one (or more) capacitors in the poweramp out aproaxing the end of their lifespan. Easy and cheap fix, get it done before you harm the speakers.