Ghost_Bass

[quote name='funkle' timestamp='1490799353' post='3268146'] The issue is that manufacturers tend to shift the neck over (by moving the bridge away from the end of the bass) to get you upper fret access to those extra frets...at the cost of first fret access. [/quote] It doesn't make scense, sorry, look again at the pic i've posted (it's just an example) [quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1490795657' post='3268090'] [/quote] The bridge can't be moved closer to the end of the body without adding size to the body, yet the strap button sits on top of the 12th fret. Basicly, to fit your requirements of lesser frets while retaining a 35" scale, this bass would be modded to remove the bottom frets but would still be put together the same way with the same dimensions! This would happen: The overall dimension is the same, there's just some frets missing. If you want better access to the first frets you need to extend the top horn so the strap hangs closer to the headstock (above 10th fret for example) bringing the scale closer to your body.

get some silica gel bags to have in the gig bag or just leave it out of the gig bag (or with it opened) so it doesn't get that humidity layer on it. Also, it would be a good idea to get it out of the room early and have it in an intermediate room for a bit so it can warm up more gradually, the same before storing it in the cold room. Regarding salty humidity, wipe it of with a clean and dry towel every day before storing it in your room. If i was in your position i would try to find some time to give it a overall clean in both wood and harware every week or at least every two weeks. It's a lot of hard work to keep the bass in great nick and some setup skills are needed for this but it's your work tool and you need it to operate at its best for the duration of your contract, it needs maintenance like any other part of the boat.

A couple of questions raised by this situation: The neck may have been made in 2012 but the bass put together at a later date. Bass need to be disassembled to check for neck pocket / pickup cavity stamps to check for real build date. Bass may have been made in 2012 in odd colour and sent back to factory for reassembly at a later date. Again, check body stamps. Bass may have really been put together in 2012 and stored in stock until this year. It's a big plus IMO as you're sure that the construction is stable and the neck won't move any more. Frets and other hardware bits should show signs of oxidation after so many years standing still. If the bass is stable, sounds good, feels good and OP isn't thinking about selling it any time soon then it's a keeper, regardless of it's history.

I give you an example, my Yamaha is 35" and has the strap button above the 12th fret: (internet pic) It's still a bit of a strech to reach the nut, i'm used to it but i think you might struggle with it. If the bass had less frets but retained the strap at the 12th like you asked the size would be the same, only diference would be that the neck would end further from the bridge. edit: spelling

[quote name='funkle' timestamp='1490733521' post='3267567'] (...)[list] [*]21 or 22 frets max (no 24 fret instruments) [*]34" or 35" scale; 35" preferred [/list] (...) [/quote] If you're going for a 35" scale what's the problem with having 24 frets? the neck won't be shorter! If you're looking for a short bass you should look in to short scale basses.

I've read the tab in diagonal and not read all posts in this thread but i noticed that on the tab Jaco doesn't go lower than G (3rd fret) on the E string so, if your fretboard is missing a hole tone, to get the note you need you could tune your bass a full step up to F# - B - E - A.

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1490117161' post='3262327'] I've had similar - when EBS changed to making the pedals in China, they changed the switch to this... which is a bit naff and prone to breaking - the old one wasn't. It's an easy enough fix though - you don't need an exact like for like replacement (in fact, you should use the opportunity to upgrade the switch to a far more robust one!) - just solder on flying cables between the switch and the board. [/quote] It's a very fair point. I thought about it, any 4PDT switch will work if the pins are connected correctly but as it's a PCB mount switch i don't believe a new switch would fit with enough clearance from the board so it doesn't make contact with it whilst allowing room for the cables to be connected. If a direct replacement is available i think i'll stick to it. [quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1490125769' post='3262448'] Be warned if you're considering ordering from Banzai, their order handling and communications are awful. I tried to order from them a while back, never got an order confirmation, they ignored multiple emails and I only managed to get a refund after both opening a paypal dispute and commenting publicly on their facebook page. I'm not sure that I was just unlucky either, as their facebook page shows a number of similar posts from customers. Personally, I would buy from elsewhere if at all possible, even if the price is higher. [/quote] I know a lot of people that order frequently from Banzai without problems but 'm aware that problems may happen and i thank you for the heads up, If they give me any grief with the order i'll sen a switch directly from the manufacturer

Ok, here's an update. Regarding the contact cleaner: that's what i've been doing for the past couple of years, now it's time to replace it as it needs a repray at shorter intervals. I've found the manufacturer of the switch and also found stores selling it in EU. The portuguese dealer can get me a replacement from EBS for 28€, like i've told you. Banzaimusic.com has them for a bit over 8€ plus another 8€ for P&P: [url="http://www.banzaimusic.com/4PDT-Switch-HD-4FTQ.html"]http://www.banzaimus...ch-HD-4FTQ.html[/url] I've found the manufacturer in italy "ST Professional" and they were excelent at replying my e-mail in record time and are available to sell me one switch directly for not much over 5€, the problem is that from Italy P&P are 15€, so i thanked their offer and decide to get the one from Banzai. [url="http://www.st-professional.it/cms/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=73&Itemid=75"]http://www.st-profes...id=73&Itemid=75[/url] i've asked on facebook and a friend close to me is thinking in making an order from Banzai in a couple of days so i'll taka advantage of that and divide P&P with him so it should all be in around 10€ in the end. Still a bit too much for a switch but it's the cheapest solution. Thanks all for the help and comments, hope the info in this thread can help another with the same problem, i'm going to edit the title for ease of search. cheers edited: spelling

Steinberger does this But i have no idea how it's attached to the headstock or if it will work on the bass in question.

[quote name='lownote12' timestamp='1489760691' post='3259583'] As the OP I'd just like to say that I liked several things about this bass: light weight, smokey pickups, good B tone, good finish, including smooth fret ends. All that it needed in the end was a KiOgon loom to unleash its goodness. [/quote] So, the wiring loom took care of the "quiet, muddy and boomy" sound you were gettin? In that case it's a good, cheap and justified upgrade.

I'm alone in this thread by the look of things... no problem, i'll keep it running in case anybody has this trouble in the future. Here's more info, i tracked the manufacturer of the switch: http://www.st-professional.it/cms/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=73&Itemid=75 I've e-mailed them to see if they sell direct to public or if they can point me to a Portuguese/Spanish dealer where i can get a quote. I'll keep this updated.

[quote name='dyerseve' timestamp='1489763785' post='3259647'] I would contact the manufacturer directly and explain the situation. They may even be able to supply one FOC [/quote] I'll try and get in touch with them via fecebook but i don't think EBS is going to offer me anything... I've found the type of footswitch, it's a 4PDT footswitch that works in two rows of 6. the cheapest place i've found for it is Banzai Music at 8,33€ but there's another 8€ of P&P.... https://www.banzaimusic.com/4PDT-Switch-HD-4FTQ.html Anybody knows of any UK store that stocks them?

Well, i think i really need your help. Just got a quote from the dealer, they're asking 28€ for the switch! Ouch!!!

After about 10 years of allways ON operation the footswitch on my EBS Multicomp pedal has started to act. Occasionally it turns off by itself but as it's latched in the ON position the result is that i loose sound. When i press it to get it to work again i feel it's stuck and when it comes on it outputs a lower signal, i have to press it a few times until it latches again in a full signal position. I'm not going to try to fix it unless there's no other way, too much trouble to mess with those tiny parts inside. I was going to replace it yesterday having taken order of a brand new 3PDT switch but upon opening i've found a switch type that i've never seen. It has 12 pins in two rows, here's some pics to explain it better: The pedal is the true-bypass version, non "SE", btw: I've already contacted the store where i bought the pedal as they're the Portuguese dealers for EBS in order to get a quote for a replacement part but we all know that getting parts from the brand is allways expensive. I've never seen this switch before and google isn't helping. The "pat pend" engraved on the switch makes me believe that this could be some kind of proprietary switch custom made for EBS. Does anybody knows the name/reference of this footswitch? If i can get on efrom eBay it will be way more cheaper. Thanks in advance

[quote name='No lust in Jazz' timestamp='1489678352' post='3258923'] Sorry - its a thread about modifying a Squier VM P 5 bass - sounds like you had a bad experience of doing this - which bass was it? [/quote] No, you must have misundertood my post or it's just my lack in english vocabulary that didn't allowed me to explain well. Summing it up, a VMP5 is a cheapish bass, what's the point in buying a cheap bass only to spend a fair bit of money in upgrading working pickups/wiring/bridge/tuners/etc.? In the end the bass will be more expensive but won't be worth the inicial investment plus upgrades! If it was me, i would prefer to sell the VMP5 and but another budget 5-string P-bass of another brand that doesn't come with those shortcomings. Then i made a joke about wich bass i would get, in that price range, that wouldn't have those problems - Yamaha BB425(x) obviously, just look at my profile and sig... hehehe - but there are more out there that will also have more punch and good B string off the shelf in the same price bracket (Ibanez, Sire, etc.). Cheers

MXR Bass Octave Deluxe for me. Bought it a long time ago (2008-2009 probably) after trying some market competitors. I went for the MXR because it had (and has) a very natural sounding octave, not synthy, it's true-bypass, easy to dial in useable sounds, has blend, and it's been a working horse ever since. Never tried COG or OCTAVBRE, but have since tried Aguilar, EBS and OC-2, etc. and i still prefer to keep my MXR in the pedalboard. It's cheap too

Sibob, is the pedal true-bypass? In the pics of the kits they show a DPDT footswitch and not a 3PDT. I'm aware that they may have a millenium bypass in the circuit, hope you can confirm this to me. True-bypass is a must-have for me as i run my pedalboard with a PSU and is part of my signal chain. Cheers

[quote name='No lust in Jazz' timestamp='1489600012' post='3258308'] Oh... I'm really sorry to read this, which one did you own? [/quote] Could you explain your question? Don't quite get it...

I wouldn't spend money on such cheap instrument if the part ain't broken. If it was me i would sell it and buy another bass, for the same money, with better sound/components (won't say wich but you know what i'm talking about )

Just get a new neck for it and use the rest of the insurance money to treat yourself to a new bass

Of course! that's why i kept upgrading my main bass until i've found "the one"

Right now i believe that Kubiki's are starting to raise their value. One thing i'me sure that won't be worth anything in a few years are MIJ Yamahas so you can start unloading yours in my hands while you can still get a reasonable (low) price for them...