velvetkevorkian

I actually quite like that- obviously T-Bird inspired but without the bits that make actual T-Birds look stupid.

A Precision is 34" scale. You can get extra long strings but there's not a consistent standard for what defines long/extra long scale, and it doesn't take into account factors like whether the bass is strung through the body or not. If you can get extra longs with the strings you like that's probably the best way to go. Hope that helps. Kyle

Can you not take it up with the Gallery?

Have you tried the 1/4" output next to the XLR?

You'll occasionally see a US Cirrus here, and I've seen a G-Bass (graphite neck) a couple of times, but the other models (US made Milleniums for example) are very uncommon IME, and much more expensive than they are in the US. The prices they go for on TB, even with shipping and taxes taken into account makes that a better deal in general. One of these days I'll get one from TB and find out how good they really are- I'm a big Peavey fan.

I'd like to see the full specs/options/pricing before making my mind up here. Let's not all rush to judgement on the basis of a few protoypes.

Any 5 or 6 strings with 36" scales on the horizon?

Its political correctness gone mad!

[quote name='fryer' post='794829' date='Apr 3 2010, 08:05 AM']Hi, I have recently bought a bass ( from Basschat of course ) with an Aguilar OBP 2 pre amp. I understand that it provides more output than a passive, but does it boost the output from the pickups, or does it just boost the tone controls ?[/quote] An active preamp can provide more gain, but the main function is to allow the tone controls to boost as well as cut, which isn't possible with passives. [quote name='fryer' post='794829' date='Apr 3 2010, 08:05 AM']Also, the wiring diagram shows a stereo jack to switch on the circuit - do I need a stereo jack on a normal mono lead, or do I need a stereo lead ?[/quote] Just a normal mono 1/4" cable should be fine- AFAIK that simply completes the circuit to engage the battery, there's not a stereo signal path that would require a special lead [quote name='fryer' post='794829' date='Apr 3 2010, 08:05 AM']And, I want to change the stacked pot to two separate ones - where's the best place to get them, and decent knobs. Maplin do pots for 80 p, but they can't be much good ? Confused. [/quote] No idea, sorry, although have a look in [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=81853"]this thread[/url] for some more informed discussion. Hope that helps. Cheers K

Probably the neck flexing slightly as you laid it down.

[quote name='Vibrating G String' post='792845' date='Apr 1 2010, 02:16 AM']Hmm, now I think I'm reading that quote wrong, is he saying lighter produces more fundamental and my reading skills are shot?[/quote] I think you have misread that one, sorry. [quote name='lightbulbjim' post='792870' date='Apr 1 2010, 07:23 AM']Does the guage really affect the tension? My understanding was that it was purely down to scale length. Following on from that the different string thicknesses across a given set of strings is to match the tone between various string tensions.[/quote] There are a whole host of factors which affect tension. All else being equal, a longer scale will mean more tension; increasing guage will do the same thing. This is why low strings are bigger than high strings- to try and achieve balanced tension at increasingly lower pitches. That said, there are many variables in the equation, so strings of brand X may have more tension than strings of brand Y at the same guage because of the way they're made.

Also, if you ever look at orchestral parts, you'll sometimes see other parts used as a cue; for example, if the flute plays a notable figure two bars before you come in, that might be noted in your part to make it easier to follow.

No 7 string sets though.

Meshuggah. Gnarly. (bass starts about 1:10)

What are the buttons for?

I've gone from using heavy guage strings to as light as I can with my preferred brand (Elixirs). I didn't notice any loss of bottom end but playing up the dusty end sounded noticeably sweeter to me. YMMV.

[quote name='Jerry_B' post='788026' date='Mar 27 2010, 05:13 PM']Don't do it if you're truly frightened by the prospect. That'll just make things worse rather than be an improvement. If you can get the job done by playing by ear, stick with that. I personally think that if you gel well with the other band members, that's what makes it all work - then you can rely on intuition, feel and instinctive timing. Being able to read can also be a curse. I was once in a band with someone who could only learn by sight reading first, and was terrified of 'going off the beaten track' from whatever the music said. Horses for courses I guess [/quote] That happens because that person never learned to play by ear, not because they learned to read. The two are not mutually exclusive- learning to read is not going to make you a worse "ear" player.

[url="http://glasgow.gumtree.com/glasgow/65/55862065.html"]"70s Kay Precision"[/url] on Glasgow Gumtree.

Probably better to go for a catch all title like "Transcriptions" or something similar. You might be better putting a post in the [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showforum=34"]site issues[/url] forum- the admins may actually see it there.

[quote name='uzzell' post='783489' date='Mar 23 2010, 02:36 PM']Again, I am all about the high C. I play mostly classical, chord based bass and it suits perfectly. I have often wondered what the next step up would be like, ie maybe tune A D G C F for super high pitch playing. Is there such a string that could do this.[/quote] I use a guitar string to get to the E below that- I think it would handle the extra semitone.

Good buy- I have a fretted and a fretless just like that but red and orange respectively. Excellent value. Will need to get some pics I guess... What electronics are you putting in? I actually really like the passive controls- rolling off the bridge tone with everything else maxed out gives me my ideal fretless sound.