velvetkevorkian

That's because the forum isn't there anymore.

Curious. The WT-300 manual doesn't mention them, but the WT-400 lists them as being a 12db pad with the gain knob pulled out and the compressor bypassed when the enhance knob is pulled out. I would guess it's the same on yours, but couldn't say for sure. Hope that helps. gah!- beaten to it!

I expect to have fun. Anything else is a bonus.

[quote name='basshead56' post='900325' date='Jul 20 2010, 06:07 PM']I wonder if its actually in, or its a pre-order situation?[/quote] According to [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=93738"]one of our friendly affiliates[/url], the first shipment is expected in September.

How easy is it to switch, once you understand the basic arco mechanics? I've always played with a French bow (since that's what my teacher used) but sometimes wonder if a German bow would be useful.

Lovely! Definitely the right choice IMHO!

I'd love a 5 string Beast bass. Why yes, I am in a metal band, how did you guess?

I'll have mine as low as possible please

Across three strings I would play all the notes at the 7th fret with the same finger (probably the 3rd finger), in a kind of combination barre/rolling motion. If it was like this: |--------------------------------------- |------------------------7-------------- |---------------------7----7------------ |---------------5----------------------- I would play the 5th fret with my first and the 7th fret with my 3rd and 4th fingers on different strings.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='898869' date='Jul 19 2010, 01:03 PM']Agreed. You can get everything you need in Maplins and im sure it will be cheaper than buying a kit. A 6" ruler (and 18" if doing it the Lakland way) cost only a couple of £. A feeler gauge will be helpful if setting the basses up to the manufactures spec. Not sure how much they cost but they arent expensive. All the allen keys should have come with the basses anyway and a couple of screwdrivers are all that needed IME.[/quote] I set my basses up to my spec. I couldn't care less what the manufacturer recommends!

Honestly, for a basic set up I've never felt the need for anything more than a screwdriver and some allan keys, and I like my action very low. Try reading through some of the guides online (like the Willis or Jerzy Drozd ones), apply it to your bass(es). If you're happy, sorted. If not, you can buy additional tools and resources. It's not voodoo, but the only way to learn is to try it IMO. It's pretty difficult to do any permanent damage unless you're using totally excessive force.

If you raise the C string a bit does it behave the same way?

Leave it unfinished? I've seen a DB with what seemed to be a rosewood fingerboard before- looked quite striking!

Absolutely, and especially if it was a straight trade as the SR5 is significantly cheaper!

Here's a guide from [url="http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/setupmanual.html"]Gary Willis[/url].

The photos are the least of my problems with that ad- the typography, on the other hand, is almost unreadable.

Let's just say I'd rather be Darryl Jones than Bill Wyman.

About right for the Sadowsky, but the DJ4 is about £1100 on the GG website.

Was it you that brought the rain with you? They definitely have the best selection of quality basses in the city.

I go for versatility- I started out playing DB in school orchestras where we would switch from "early" music to romantic, classical and contemporary music in the same concert, so I think we just got used to playing whatever was put in front of us.

I'm very much in the "strict alternation" camp as far as the right hand goes- I try and keep the same pattern of fingers going at all times, using 3 fingers mostly. I'd say if you have a right hand technique that works for you there's no particular reason to change it. As far as emphasis in a band context, it really depends on the rest of the band and the overall sound.

A Basslab. Or maybe a Sei. Or a Dingwall. Or...

Hmm. Two [url="http://www.swrsound.com/products//search.php?partno=4415050000"]SWR Amplites[/url] would give 400W each into 4 ohms in one rack space, and its only 9.75" deep. The [url="http://www.hevos.nl/cms/en/?Products%A0:Amplifiers:%A0%A0_800D"]Hevos 800D[/url] is 1U high, 2x500W into 4 ohms. Looks like its probably deeper than you would want though. That's all I can think of right now...

I think a picture speaks a thousand words... The highlight of a pretty tedious weekend.