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If you pop the top then you should be able to see the value and taper of the pots. I’ve got an old TC head that’s broken that I don’t mind desoldering them on mine if they’re the same value.

@Silky999 Who did the wrap? Looks like it might be a better bet than my local car place who have never done it before! Presumably it does not go under the bridge so the contact with the wood is unaffected?

Hey everyone! I’ve followed Bass Chat for a number of years but only just joined the community properly. My name’s Dan, and I’ve been playing bass for around 20 years. I’m lucky enough to work in the music industry through my own music studio and events company, and I also play in a few different bands. Earlier this year, I was fortunate to join the artist rosters for both Blackstar and Alpher Instruments, which has been a real highlight for me. Over the years I’ve owned more basses than I can count, but lately I’ve found myself gravitating more and more toward short scales. My JMJ Mustang has actually stuck with me longer than most others, which says a lot! I’m a huge advocate for short scales—not just for their mojo and unique vibe, but also for how playable they are. One thing worth mentioning is that I developed a tendon issue in my right hand about 3–4 years ago (likely from overplaying). Because of that, longer-scale instruments aren’t always an option for me, but the lower tension of short scales means I can still play comfortably for much longer. So, I’m partly here to say hi, and partly to share my appreciation for short scales. Really looking forward to being part of the conversation!

I have done some experiments with Z (the load the pups see) - and found there can be all kinds of changes in sounds as a result. However, I found, deciding which is "the best one?" an difficult choice- it's possible to make 20 modifications, each yields a different sound, the obvious one to go for is not always that obvious! So for me, end result, just don't waste time experimenting. I connect passive pups into a hi Z preamp/interface (>1Mohm) using a short good quality lead. If I want fuller/cleaner tone I go for active pups. One test was to have little capacitors across the passive pups at the socket on the guitar, using a selector switch, say 20pF, 100pF, 220pF, 1000pF I could switch between. They did seems to have an effect on tone, which directed to me think, I need a short good quality lead (low C) - but then a radio link which has a high Z input, all sorted. So now I don't do anything - I take it as-is. Just my MO.

I'll admit I'm fascinated with the neck construction here.

In my originals band - I have more input from a rhythm and chord change standpoint (knowing the most theory) than anything else. But no real melody or actual "song" input if that makes any sense..

I suspect the difference you hear when shifting a bridge backwards or forwards slightly is the change in the relative position of the soundpost qnd the bridge foot. If you move it by 5mm, say, that's going to be a barely noticeable change in scale length, but a significant change in the gap between bridge and soundpost.

Update: Well, the sale has fallen through. The guy selling said he could not find the case and didn't want to send it without but I got a full refund so I've not been scammed. I think he's either a flake or found out how much it'd cost to send the thing or both - the listing didn't even mention a case so he's not a very experienced seller. Anyway. It wasn't a scam.

Can you not change the key of your playback system..? Any track in Reaper, for instance (other DAW's are available...) can be transposed up or down, without changing tempo. Worth looking into..?

That's a repaired neck break! Though I'm puzzled as to why you are saying it is a 90's bass. By 1990 Warwick necks were Maple with Wenge stringers; that neck is predominantly Wenge and likely an 80's bass. 'If' done correctly and by someone who knows what they are doing, a break can be repaired as strong as new. However... the fact you can see it a mile away makes me wonder how competent the repairer was. Unless it was significantly cheaper than other examples I'd just wait for another to come along. Saying that, if this was repaired in the late 80's and looked like that when repaired, then it is 35 years with that repair so could be fine.

This has certainly been a riveting read!

My suggestion, open the unit up, take a good close up photo of the "pot" (potentiometer), we need to see how it is mounted to the PCB and to the front panel, from that it's possible to guess what it type is going to be. We also need to see it's resistance value (and taper) so look for something like 200KB, A10K it's usually printed on the "pot" in black or white ink. I would have thought Music Tribe would direct you to their Service centre, but I know sometimes that doesn't always get a result.

All those different keys are my worst nightmare!! I’ve depped a few times and all the songs have been in the original key/recorded version. i really struggle to practice & rehearse if I can’t play along to the original version.

Having said that, as soon as my new bass reached these shores, it has now been "misrouted" no fault of Thomann themselves mind. Another day of anxious waiting.

I was enjoy the bird songs and quiet sound with a dash of humming noise in the garden sitting under the gazebo drinking my coffee until some **** decided to bang in one of the gardens further up.

In the punkyfunky and the funkybluesey bands most of the songs begin with a full structure written by me, but everyone writes their own parts with collective input. In the FunkyRockDancey band songs are usually started by guitarist producing a synth backing and sending it to me, then I add a bass line to it and that gets sent to singer, drummer and other guitarist - all this is by WhatsApp and email. These "jams" then become the basis for new releases and even get played live very, very occasionally (look out Chester - 11th October is the first public Weeds outing in at least 9 years!).