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Wapping closed early 2003, so before that. Plus inner London phone numbers went from 01 to 071 in 1990.

Thanks NancyJohnson, the board is really clean, oil free and ready to go, I just need to ask, what the hell is a Q-Tip? surely not what I'm thinking? me being a UK novice.... 😁

Welcome back Kevvo.

I've been been absent for along time just due to lifes ups and downs i don't really play bass much these days but I'm hoping to start again maybe get myself a cheap fretless something a bit different for me anyhow enough rambling from me to anyone who knows me hi and everyone who doesn't also a big hello.

The first band I was in, about 86-88, - Drastic Action - the BL was obsessed by Dire Steaits although he thought he was Guitar George... do we did several Dire Straits covers with no lead guitar! Testament to how good the songs are of themselves. As well as Sultans we did Six Blade Knife, wild west end and Down to the Waterline.

a little bird...... the question i would ask rob is are the grooves cut deep to accept frets or are they just for the lines?? A phenolic (sometimes called Richlite) fingerboard can definitely be fretted, but it behaves differently from traditional woods like rosewood or maple. Phenolic is a dense, synthetic composite material, so there are a few considerations: Key Points Durability: Phenolic is extremely tough and stable. It resists wear better than most woods, which is why it’s often used on fretless basses. This toughness also means it can hold frets securely once installed. Workability: Cutting fret slots and shaping the radius is possible, but you need sharp tools and patience. The material is harder on saw blades and files than wood. Fretting Process: Frets can be tapped or pressed in, but some luthiers recommend using glue (like hide glue or CA) to ensure they stay seated, since phenolic doesn’t compress around the tang the way wood does. Existing Lines: If your bass already has fret lines cut into the phenolic board (common on fretless instruments with “lined” fingerboards), those grooves can be used as guides for installing actual frets. The challenge is whether the slots are the correct depth and width for fret tangs. If they’re shallow or narrow, they’ll need to be recut. Tone & Feel: Fretted phenolic fingerboards tend to sound bright and articulate, with a snappy attack compared to wood. Some players love this clarity, while others find it less warm. Risks & Considerations If the fret slots aren’t properly prepared, frets may not seat well and could pop out. Phenolic dust can be irritating when sanding or cutting, so protective gear is recommended. Once fretted, the instrument loses the smooth fretless feel that phenolic boards are prized for, so it’s worth considering whether you’d prefer to keep it fretless. If your lined phenolic fingerboard already has grooves in the right places, it’s not an “issue” to fret it—it’s more about ensuring the slots are cut to proper dimensions and using the right installation technique. Would you like me to walk you through the specific steps a luthier would take to convert a lined fretless phenolic board into a fretted one?

I've released an album this week on vinyl and CD using ElasticStage. Sound clips can be heard on their website. Available now at https://elasticstage.com/ianedmundson/releases/a-glittering-career-in-music-album

Powersoft

Another satisfied Ishibashi customer here - in Ireland, but the customs and taxes charges and processes are very similar to the UK. Ishibashi went above and beyond, even when An Post didn’t…

Would these be the same 3 blonde BV ladies as a previous occasion?

Looks wonderful and what a fantastic cause and event. I remember a video with Lee Sklar talking about how Phil Collins would make them spend months drilling the set so it sounded super tight but still felt fresh. Bet this will be the same.

That's nuts. Have you tried the UK distributor, strings and things?

Remembering back to the 80s/90s when I used to have to push everything to get an adequate sound, I enjoy having plenty more power than I need so I never have to worry and know my rig is well away from its limit.

What was the year you bought it?

Not sure what came over me but I contacted Ernie Ball for some pickup screws for my Stingray 4 I know, I know, I could've just checked on here etc but alas, I found myself at the checkout and I didn't like what I saw The huge cost is obviously the shipping - now I remember why I haven't bought anything from the US in a while

Yup, Fiebings Leather Dye. Black. Mask off your nut/binding, make sure the fingerboard is finish/varnish-free and clean (I'd already been using lemon oil, the board wasn't grimy). Oh, wear gloves. Apply the dye with a Q-Tip, and do smallish areas, let the dye set up for about 30 seconds and wipe off any excess. I was a little concerned about the inlay dots on the neck as it's almost impossible to go round them...i was easily able to clean off the dye on top of the dots with a Q-Tip dipped in some methylated spirit. Obviously I was concerned. Christ, it was a £4.5k bass. The results were very much what I wanted and there's been little dulling of the board since I did it. Good luck!