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Children of the Grave - Slack Babbath

I think it would have been late 80s.

Little Children - Billy J. Kramer/The Dakotas

Asda sell them

Many thanks Pete

Of course accurate, honest specifications are important, but so is understanding the basic principles of the physics behind speakers (and transducers), which is where this whole thread/discussion has become so confusing. Lots of incorrect assumptions resulting in incorrect conclusions.

4 ohm 410's make a lot of sense because many 410's have a real world power handling of between 600 and 1000 watts RMS, and there's more available volume this was as a single cabinet solution. If you want 2 x 410's, than a 2 ohm capable amp is not that difficult to find. It has nothing to do with valves versus solid state, there are plenty of examples of 2 ohm capable amps in both types. If there is enough current available from the amp, then it doesn't matter as they go hand in hand. No, it's all about voltage x current x cosine of the phase angle between the voltage and current (which is the definition of real power). Actually, speakers are a current controlled device, the movement of the cone is due to the opposing magnetic fields, one static and one modulating. based on the current flowing through the voice coil. The force F=I x L x B x sin θ (where θ is the angle between the current I and the magnetic field B) The voltage is what causes the current to flow. Voltage and current exist together, you can't separate them aside from the inclusion of the phase angle between them. The voltage causes the current to flow, the current flows because of the voltage, and the real power is ultimately what matters. Since real power is more difficult to measure, apparent power (which assumes that the power factor (or phase angle between the voltage and current is 1) is most commonly used and is plenty accurate for like comparisons.

Fender operated SWR for 10 years, it was a struggling brand when they bought it and it was still struggling when they shut it down in 2013. The newest products (AmpLite amp and GoLite speakers) were probably the best products in that last 10 years, better than many of the legacy models in terms of build quality and performance, but it was too little too late to save the company. Before somebody accuses me of not knowing the history and those products, I was there working for another one of their companies that was shut down a few months later (after 6 years of ownership).

Different players, music styles, gigs and venues all have different needs. What works for you may no work for another player and there is nothing wrong with this. It doesn't make you more right or the other player more wrong.

Just thought I'd add back to this - turned out the place I'd seen the list of variants wasn't here but TB. Which means I can't post a link to it here, but looking for "Music Man Basses 101: EBMM, SBMM, S.U.B., USA SUB" will turn it up.

I second that. Theyre not cheap and they're not shallow if thats a deal breaker. I used two for a number of years both as PA amps and with my bass. I think I sold them to @Happy Jack about 4 years ago 🤔

Q-Tips are a brand of cotton buds https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotton_swab

Wapping closed early 2003, so before that. Plus inner London phone numbers went from 01 to 071 in 1990.

Thanks NancyJohnson, the board is really clean, oil free and ready to go, I just need to ask, what the hell is a Q-Tip? surely not what I'm thinking? me being a UK novice.... 😁

Welcome back Kevvo.

I've been absent for along time just due to lifes ups and downs i don't really play bass much these days but I'm hoping to start again maybe get myself a cheap fretless something a bit different for me anyhow enough rambling from me to anyone who knows me hi and everyone who doesn't also a big hello.

The first band I was in, about 86-88, - Drastic Action - the BL was obsessed by Dire Steaits although he thought he was Guitar George... do we did several Dire Straits covers with no lead guitar! Testament to how good the songs are of themselves. As well as Sultans we did Six Blade Knife, wild west end and Down to the Waterline.

a little bird...... the question i would ask rob is are the grooves cut deep to accept frets or are they just for the lines?? A phenolic (sometimes called Richlite) fingerboard can definitely be fretted, but it behaves differently from traditional woods like rosewood or maple. Phenolic is a dense, synthetic composite material, so there are a few considerations: Key Points Durability: Phenolic is extremely tough and stable. It resists wear better than most woods, which is why it’s often used on fretless basses. This toughness also means it can hold frets securely once installed. Workability: Cutting fret slots and shaping the radius is possible, but you need sharp tools and patience. The material is harder on saw blades and files than wood. Fretting Process: Frets can be tapped or pressed in, but some luthiers recommend using glue (like hide glue or CA) to ensure they stay seated, since phenolic doesn’t compress around the tang the way wood does. Existing Lines: If your bass already has fret lines cut into the phenolic board (common on fretless instruments with “lined” fingerboards), those grooves can be used as guides for installing actual frets. The challenge is whether the slots are the correct depth and width for fret tangs. If they’re shallow or narrow, they’ll need to be recut. Tone & Feel: Fretted phenolic fingerboards tend to sound bright and articulate, with a snappy attack compared to wood. Some players love this clarity, while others find it less warm. Risks & Considerations If the fret slots aren’t properly prepared, frets may not seat well and could pop out. Phenolic dust can be irritating when sanding or cutting, so protective gear is recommended. Once fretted, the instrument loses the smooth fretless feel that phenolic boards are prized for, so it’s worth considering whether you’d prefer to keep it fretless. If your lined phenolic fingerboard already has grooves in the right places, it’s not an “issue” to fret it—it’s more about ensuring the slots are cut to proper dimensions and using the right installation technique. Would you like me to walk you through the specific steps a luthier would take to convert a lined fretless phenolic board into a fretted one?