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All American OEM basses use imperial Alun Keys. You can get an imperial set from B&Q for relatively few pennies. The one you really wanted there was probably the 0.05" one.

On the other hand... The guitarist in my band plays through a 15 watt Pro Jnr combo and is still sked to turn down by sound engineers. He really isn't that loud.

Excellent job, congratulations!

Waterstone TP12 (neck-thru) 32" scale, passive.

The output barrel jack may be loose (inside), as it's a typical problem with these. Or it could be what @paul_5 said, so check after a few minutes of playing if it does that static noise again, if not, @paul_5 was correct, if it sill does, get a new barrel jack. Buy these as even the expensive Switchcraft don't last (I've tried so many until I found these that last very long): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Alnicov-Stereo-Copper-Guitar-Cylinder/dp/B08L69K6QH/

Spotted an item in the "wanted" forum from @pantherairsoft and had one that I was just thinking about moving along: instant payment and great communications including confirmation that item safely arrived. Perfect transaction and the easiest possible first sale on BassChat for me, thank you!

Interesting about the C4 - I've also got an older PJB Flightcase (also 4 x5s with two pointing upwards) and found that it didn't have the openness I was looking for, it also tends to boom too easily when the volume goes up. Phil has used various iterations of the 5" drivers over the years so it the C4 could be a very different beast. I'm also on the lookout for a used C2 which would be ideal for my bass teaching (the music dept where I teach is up several flights of stairs!)

Having owned multiple Roscoe's, I miss them all dearly. The LG 3005 is my absolute favourite of them all (and I'd totally string that with DR Black beauties - I assume that is what was on them but the strings had gone funny somehow, as they're not usually sticky at all). This bass is an absolute stunner. Giving me major Roscoe GAS!

The point is (been made by a couple of people now) that the L-2000/ASAT should already have one, if it's wired properly. Don't need to fit anything, just fix what's already there.

@andyhaines if you can try before buying, go on, it's the best way to pick the best cabinet for your needs. That said I would go down the 12 inches speaker road as the 10's may sound a bit dry in comparison and may start farting at higher levels, but not all as it's a matter of design...

what is it?

They definitely changed the formula towards the end. The silkless flats were lovely - very old school pillowy and thumpy. The last set I got before they closed had black silks on the flats and the E was unusable - dead cardboard type clunk

Thanks, I really appreciate the help! But I've got a set winging their way from Thomann as we speak.

Last set of Picato strings (flats) I ordered from Strings Direct (5 or so years back) appeared to be re badged D'Addario Chromes. Disappointing as the set I'd ordered before then were made by Picato themselves, no silks, no gaps between windings.

I have a rule of thumb that I tell to every player: If you can't hear yourselves playing, turn all volumes down. Most are dubitative until they do it. And never forget that you first have to match your sound level to the acoustic instrument(s) in the band.

You could always get a bypass switch fitted. Easy enough for a techie to do.

I've recently changed my main Status S2 from Bass Centre Elites to GHS Stainless Steels. The bass sounds very good on these, but there's more tension than the previous Elites nickels. They've only done one gig so far, so longevity is yet to be seen. The nickel Elites usually only do 3-4 gigs before needing to be changed. I wish Elixir did a 30-90 DBE set - I usually get 30-40 gigs out of the 40-95 gauge Elixirs on my Jazz.

This is the module pickup I designed This is underneath the top cover., The top cover fastens to the guitar body and is permanent. The clip at bottom right is a holder for a five pin pogo connector. This is the pickup frame, this connects to the top cover. You can see the three guide and screw sections that match above. The pogo connector at the bottom, connects to a pogo connector at the top. This then connects to the wiring loom. This is a generic piece and takes any pickup. This is a specific sledge for a Type 1 Humbucker. The raised circular sections connect to the humbucker bottom plate. The four circular holes near them are needed to attach the humbucker bottom plate back to the humbucker. Every sodding humbucker is different so it needs a different bottom plate. The three holes that are slightly recessed are the adjustment screws to raise and lower the humbucker,. I note that the bottom left appears to be missing the through hole it should have Here's a bottom plate for a Fender lipstick pickup. The only features that carry over are the three cut outs around the edge and the three recessed screws for raising and lowering the pickup. The idea was to have a standard top cover and pickup frame and only the bottom would change depending on the pickup. I got this working but not sure if it will make it into this guitar or bass. Rob