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PS - can also do you a pickup ring with a thumb rest designed for the Steinberger Spirit, which I think might well fit your Hohner. https://makerworld.com/en/models/1434657-steinberger-spirit-humbucker-with-thumb-rest?from=search

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:812666 If you'd like the base plate from this lot, I'll print you one.

My wife suggested that, then clapped her hands and said "so I need a 3D printer, you see". She recently changed jobs and is missing her old gigantic workshop with its CNC machines, panel saws and room of 3D printers. I think that would probably be the smart idea, but I'd prefer to get this done in less time than it takes to decide on a model of 3D printer, buy one, make up the STL for the part, print it, etc.

How about sticking a 3d printed base under it?

I have had such a hard time selling this bass. It was my first decent 5 string and I don't play it any more and the interest i've had with offers are no good to me. I'm seriously considering the thought of having it embedded in acrylic to make an actual coffee table bass. I'd take the electronics out of it as they can be used in a non alembic bass. An alternative is what I have done many times in the past when tormented by the idea of selling an instrument or gear that I no longer use but have become attached to, Which is give it away to a young musician. I did that with some mesa boogie gear. I have someone in mind who is a young bassist that I have become a big fan of. But I don't know if they even like alembics so I won't mention it here in case they are a member and I change my mind. Ha. .

Welcome Skyler.

There's a really interesting Carol Kaye interview online which I've dipped into before. Near the beginning, Carol talks about how she had to work on her groove and placement when she first switched over to bass from guitar. She borrowed a metronome technique from her Jazz playing, where she set the metronome to beats 2 and 4 and worked on her groove this way. So does this actually work? I delve into this concept in my latest lesson, featuring part of the Carol Kaye interview and dissecting this technique and the exercise that she demonstrates. This could be the perfect way for you to work on your own 'pocket' and groove playing.

I know, I realised it was the wrong one - but it wouldn’t let me delete it😟😟🙈🙈

No longer needed as work has given me a nice new HP laptop. This was my spare travel PSU. Its the 65W 1706 model, comes with the cloverleaf lead and UK plug and the stupid Microsoft dedicated power connector rather than the USB-C that the rest of the world uses, apart from Apple and Microsoft. There is a special place in hell reserved for the executives tw*ts who thought they were being clever and generating revenue for their companies by using propriety connectors. Sadly it works so I can't just fling it in recycling. It has a massive number of ports, no I'm lying, it has a single USB-A 2.0 port. You can connect a mouse, wow, just wow. These are approx £11 on eBay new, I'll send it for the absolutely nothing simply to get get rid of it. Amazon has it for the extortionate price of £14. Here's the Amazon link to it https://amzn.eu/d/bsMPodm If you need it, this means you have a MS Surface Pro and nothing I can say or do will make life any better for you. My suggestion is to change jobs for an employer that values you. Rob

At the moment, the clean and processed audio needs to go up to the tone3000.com to be turned into a NAM. However tone3000.com have recently made an API available, so maybe the Anagram or at least the Darkglass Suite will be able to streamline this in the future. I have to say it was really easy in practice - use the Anagram as a USB audio interface, record two tracks of noodling in Logic, bounce each to a file, upload to tone3000.com, download the NAM. I got a really good model of my Bear Foot Blue Berry which sounds just like the pedal and is very dynamic. Absolutely, I have some patches set up like this, works well. On the whole I'm loving my Anagram and have used it on home and fly dates with no problems. The audio quality is pristine (unlike the HX Stomp) and the interface really usable (except for accidentally dragging blocks instead of scrolling along - Darkglass know about this). I'm looking at adding an additional footswitch as MIDI is coming very soon. Would love some more blocks including a ringmod, synth, slow gear etc.

Women’s Prison - Loretta Lynn

Hi This is no longer needed. It's a plastic front and rear for a Macbook Air M1 A2337. Other models may fit. I'm pretty certain it's one of these and the colour is very similar to this but but can't say its Pastel Orange. https://amzn.eu/d/aXM6zgi There's a load of surface scratches and one corner is slightly cracked. However its better than having nothing on your expensive Macbook Air. I'll even post for free. Rob

Been Caught Stealing - Jane's Addiction

I can imagine! The bit of my brain that manages low back pain is screaming "NO!!!!" but I'm just overriding those negative thoughts as they look so cool. Even if I didn't gig them, they'd look good in the corner of my practice room.

While I'm sitting around, periodically applying more coats to this polyurethane toffee apple, I figure I may as well sort out a few of the remaining issues with the instrument. The big thing to sort out is the damaged front pickup. These basses have a slightly unusual pickup arrangement (for a bass, at least) where the guitar-humbucker-sized soapbars are mounted to pickup rings. The pickups were originally held in place with what my (American-born carpenter) wife identified as No. 2 machine screws. These are anchored into brass threaded inserts that are cast into the tabs on the sides of the pickups. On the back pickup these are still intact and have the appropriate hardware still. On the front pickup the treble side tab has snapped off. I can only assume this happened during the process of fitting the midi pickup system, as I can't see how this fairly sturdy tab could have broken other than if it was dropped onto a hard surface. The previous owner attempted a fix using self-tapping M3 machine screws and a lot of epoxy. They tapped out the surviving bass insert to 3 mm and cut a thread through the oddly rubbery plastic of the makeshift tab they'd glued on. That home-made tab seems to have failed pretty quickly though, and it was broken when it reached me. I have some M2 machine screws and associated threaded inserts to hand, so I'm thinking I'll just cut away both the epoxy tab and the surviving (but retapped) tab and replace them with a single piece of wood or plastic across the bottom of the pickup with M2 threaded inserts. Like so. The pickup rout is flat on the bottom, so I don't need the gap between the tabs. As an interesting aside. The hardware used on this bass is almost all imperial, despite it being a German-designed instrument made in Korea. I'm guessing they were bound by the terms of the Steinberger license to reproduce the hardware exactly, including the No. 2 machine screws for the pickup mountings and the No. 6 woodscrews that are used to mount the bridge and headpiece.

Those and my Boogie 1516 are genuinely the best cabs I’ve ever owned. Not light by any means but worth the effort 🤪

Lack of a sound provenance back to 1990 or thereabouts puts me off buying a vintage instrument.