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  2. Yes, 100% and even more so playing fretless. For me, I am the most comfortable playing a Fender, mostly a Jazz but a Precision is fine and Japanese Fender's are my favourite as the gloss necks are my preferred finish and the build quality is incredible.
  3. Wish I had the cash right now, but as I don’t I hope it’s still available when I do.
  4. I can get a reasonable sound out of any of my basses. The Seis, though, are the nicest of them to play. Does nobody else consider playability to be the most important aspect of a bass?
  5. I prefer to avoid heavy chemicals due to the lack of ventilation but the neighbous are away for a couple of weeks so the shared landing might be an option. I need to go and get some other painting and wood finishing bits anyway (1980s build flat, doors and skirting need a bit of sorting out) so I'll see what I can pick up. I'm not worried about resale value as Bolivia has no market for this kind of thing and I couldn't play it standing up for more than 5 minutes without giving myself a serious shoulder problem so even if I do make a mess of things noone will see it.
  6. I have a MIJ ATK100. Absolutely great bass, very old school, very light and currently wearing flats, lovely thing. Low output, and honestly nothing at all like a Stingray. No idea if the 200 or other models are different in terms of that, and mine is the most basic version, but it definitely doesn’t sound like a ‘ray. Really great bass though, and definitely has its own vibe going on.
  7. I had a ‘63 that I gigged hard 1978-88…kick myself every day for letting it go. American vintage for the pickups…
  8. Bought a bass from Mike, very good communicator and overall so happy with the transaction. A highly recommended basschatter!
  9. MN pots have tapers which go to 100% over 50% of the travel, so both of those are possible.
  10. Front and rear of my Aria FEB.
  11. THIS ^^^
  12. Bonny lad, you know that Basschat is fundamentally the worst place you can go to for opinions, because you'll end up with dozens. You've listed pros and cons from the five versions you've identified - and I'm assuming your leaning towards a Fender - but remember nothing is set in stone; you can replace bridges/machines/other hardware, it's highly unlikely that you're going to need to replace a neck, you can buy a hardshell cases (and so on). Remember also that you'll save a few bob by sourcing a used instrument. My advice would be to go out and try a few. You may find that there are other manufacturers that may tick the boxes as well (Lull, Lakland, Sadowsky).
  13. Can confirm tape, as mentioned by stringray boy, works fine - you just need to be careful how you wrape it around the finger/s so that the end does not catch on strings when playing. One careful application will last a two hour gig and avoid blisters. Has saved me some sore digits many times when over rehearsing too close to gig or had daily gigs . After application, take a few minutes to get used to the "new" feel of the wrapped fingers on the strings - then it won't feel quite so odd when the gig starts. Also second advice above re volume - try and let the amp do the amplifying !
  14. Brian lives on the border of North Ireland and the South and I know EU shipping wouldn’t be a problem. He’s an absolute gent to deal with and packs things perfectly.
  15. Canoe Dig It — King Floyd
  16. Having a clearout to try and calm my current pedal analysis paralysis problem! All prices include UK postage. Dr. Scientist BitQuest, limited Blackout Edition. Also includes the extra EEPROM kit allowing you to swap out sounds for others. Jack of all trades multi effect in a tiny package. Mint, boxed. £180 Dr. Scientist Phreak. Super musical ring modulator. Mint, boxed. £180 Maneco Labs Small Nimbus. Mutable Instrument Clouds in pedal format, with Parasites firmware. Powerful granular delay/verb/synth texture generator. Great condition, no box. Note that a manual for this pedal doesn’t exist, you have to use the manual for Clouds… and you’ll need it! £220 Red Panda Bitmap2. One of the best bitcrushers ever made. Mint, boxed. £200 Aguilar Octamizer. V2 version. Great octave down. Mint, boxed. £120 DOD Meatbox. Sub octave monster. Excellent condition, boxed. £110 PastFX PX-101 Lowpass Filter & PX-251 Control Processor. Clone of the Moog MF-101, as well as all the LFO power of the CP-251. Incredible quality clone of one of the greatest filters ever made, with notable improvements (power, proper bypass etc). Only selling as a pair as they are a match made in heaven. Offering a sizeable discount to make them a valid purchase as a pair. Mint, both boxed. £250 Also selling Iron Ether Super FrantaBit here. Any questions, please ask. Small discount given for multiple purchases. Collection in Derby is welcomed.
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  17. A quick razz in the GIMP, and you're welcome! To answer your question, not always but in this case yes, there is a noticeable difference between the two pairs. Granted it's a variation on a theme, but it is there.
  18. Maybe give the Ampeg Venture a go? They can nail the SVT sound (and the B-15 sound) and they go all the way from a little 300W version up to a 1200W beast. Personally, as a former Ampeg user, I'm wary, just because Ampeg's last range of Class D heads had some major reliability issues, but the Ventures are supposed to be much better. But, once bitten and all that. Failing that, Ashdown. Maybe Aguilar. I've been using an Ashdown RM800 for years and it's been reliable, sounds great and, if I want to go down that slightly fuzzy road, it can do that, although its character is a bit different to an SVT-3.
  19. BEST BUY I would also like to add these to my best buy list. I started a thread - The Flats are off. Stating i have moved away from my Deep talking La Bella set on my CS 62 Precision. Well I have now traded it for the Bass above, but now discovered La Bella low tension flats, a completely different feel and lovely tone and guess what, they are now on all my basses. crazy world ain't it.
  20. Today
  21. I yacht the sheriff - E. C.
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