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I'd get one of these....... (I have one ). Active/passive so best of both worlds.... https://www.gear4music.com/G4M/Fender-FSR-Deluxe-PJ-Bass-Sea-Foam-Pearl/6FEB

I have a 50p coin for the first player I see with one of these.

Yes that seems to be the direction folk are going Many heavier cabs sold off and a few amps but not so many bread and butter brands in class D Ashdown Ampeg Orange GK MarkBass

Sounds like a desperate fake piece to appeal to his Deform supporters...

The hardest part of a concern like this is finding your USP (unique selling point). Why should anyone buy one of your things instead of someone else's thing? G4M or Harley Benson are cheaper and have plenty of good online reviews; Warmoth have loads of custom options and a good rep; Retrovibe makes short scales and Telebackers or whatever they're called, they're unusual and cool; Squiers are actually Fenders so they're the original; so-and-so has beautiful quilted tops and hand-polished cherry bursts, they're pricey but worth it; [insert brand here] has a bunch of endorsements from famous players. What's your thing to separate yourself from the crowd? It might just be that you're small and have great quality, everything made to order and finished to the nth degree. It could be a cool gimmick or an actual useful feature. It could be not doing Jazzes and Ps at all but getting some custom body shapes made for you. Maybe you just have a really good instagram or youtube channel. But you gotta find something to stand out. Or you could just make a bass you like and sell it here or on ebay or wherever, then make another one.

The Eich BC112, rated at 300 Watts/4 Ohms, ICEpower module: The GR Bass One 800 and Acoustic combo, rated at 800 Wattsm4 Ohms and even 1000 Watts/2.7 Ohms, ICEpower module: And now the official data. BC112: https://www.soundimports.eu/en/icepower-125asx2.html One 800 and Acoustic combo: https://www.soundimports.eu/en/icepower-700as1.html So what is happening with the Eich (Tech Soundsystems, Tec, TecAmp before that) is that players are pushing them to their limits, because they are way less powerful than what's been abusively announced and ... cooking them.

The design reminds me of this:

Ok. I wondered how you'd tested it. All earths should be common. The 'Martindale' testers upthread would show missing/bad earths on sockets. More reason for performers to have their PAT certificates up to date.

There's one of these available for sale at the minute

It could be being driven by lightweight equipment. I initially bought a lightweight amp and kept my old one as a spare. I've now bought a lightweight 10" cab and would be looking at selling my cabs if I upgraded them, but probably keep the amp.

I have an ampeg ba115hp combo amp. It had a squeal that kept getting louder and louder. The longer it was plugged in. Anyway I fixed the squeal. Now I don't get any noise from this amp when I plug in my bass. Could anyone please help figure out where them wires should be? Thank you in advance for the help. I

Do whatever you can to remove sources of anxiety other than the performance itself - so get clothes ready the night before, have a good night's sleep (if you can), and on the day make sure all the gear is working and set up how you want it well in advance of playing.

The only way to find the amp that suits you is to take your cab(s) to a shop or two and try some out. You need to find the amp that makes the sound you like with your chosen instrument and cab, whether or not it's considered "hi-fi". Unless an amp has no eq or it's eq can be switched completely out of circuit, you cannot be certain that it is "hi-fi" because you are hearing the designer's preferences even with eq set nominally flat. In my experience, bass amps claimed to be "hi-fi" tend to have slightly boosted lows and highs and a recessed midrange, which gives the impression of clarity, but isn't "hi-fi" in the true sense. They sound great in the shop, home and studio at moderate volumes, but can tend to fall a bit flat in a live band context, unless they have enormous power on tap and you have some serious monitor-type cabs. Nothing like a bit of a low-mid bump to cut through a mix, hence the enduring popularity of the P bass.

Fender American Performer PJ? https://www.gear4music.com/Guitar-and-Bass/Fender-American-Performer-Precision-Bass-MN-Satin-Lake-Placid-Blue/2R9X

"You've got five seconds to look at this Warwick 6-string. Then draw it from memory."

It means we're full of cr@p and not ashamed to say it.

I think transparent has not the same meaning to everyone, to me, it means, first of all, no compression and no signal modification or tone colouring. The MarkBass heads are not transparent at all and have a huge emphasis in the low mids region and a tendency to compression. The Quilter BassBlock is certainly not transparent at all and colouring the sound a lot with lot if compression when turning the master up. Just like @Linus27 and you @andyhaines I'm a fretless player and like a dead flat tone coming from the amplification part, so I have tested as many amps as I could and often those upon recommendation were so disappointing as people ignore what transparency means. The other thing that drives me mad is fan noise, so it has even narrowed the search a lot more, otherwise I would recommend instantly the Bugera Veyron 1001 M (not the T version). I also like a cabinet to be as transparent as possible, hence the use of FRFR stuff over a quite long period. Now, I'm not gigging anymore as the bass duet is over since March and, at 60 years old, I'm fed up by the musicians egocentric personality, so I now play through my soundcard into my calibrated speakers, which is the best tone I've ever had, but it also shows how bad most instruments are...

Seen many cabs for sale in the BC classifieds but so few amps Is this a trend ?