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Considering changing basses


xgsjx
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I've had my ibby SR1000 for about 20 years & as of this past couple of years it's been giving me a sore wrist when trying to play chords or octaves (I posted something about this in the general forum). I've checked with the doc & there's nothing there, so I went to my local (music shop) & tried a few different basses just to hold my fretting hand on & spent about 45 mins in the shop doing this with Fender & Cort basses (all he really has in) and I never got any pain in my wrist at all. That leads me to conclude that the very shallow neck is the culprit.

So now I'm thinking about getting rid of my bass (which I don't wanna do :) ) and replacing it with something else with a thicker neck (about 90% of other basses I recon!).

Problem is, I've no idea what it's worth to sell & what sort of money I'd be needing to spend to get a bass of similar quality.

The bass has quite a few chips in it but plays like the day I bought it & has been ultra reliable, I've never had the need for a backup bass.

Any help on pricing what I should sell this for (if I do) & ideas on manufacturers to replace it with would be very much appreciated.

Cheers,

G

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[quote name='xgsjx' post='433299' date='Mar 13 2009, 09:46 AM']I've had my ibby SR1000 for about 20 years & as of this past couple of years it's been giving me a sore wrist when trying to play chords or octaves (I posted something about this in the general forum). I've checked with the doc & there's nothing there, so I went to my local (music shop) & tried a few different basses just to hold my fretting hand on & spent about 45 mins in the shop doing this with Fender & Cort basses (all he really has in) and I never got any pain in my wrist at all. That leads me to conclude that the very shallow neck is the culprit.

So now I'm thinking about getting rid of my bass (which I don't wanna do :) ) and replacing it with something else with a thicker neck (about 90% of other basses I recon!).

Problem is, I've no idea what it's worth to sell & what sort of money I'd be needing to spend to get a bass of similar quality.

The bass has quite a few chips in it but plays like the day I bought it & has been ultra reliable, I've never had the need for a backup bass.

Any help on pricing what I should sell this for (if I do) & ideas on manufacturers to replace it with would be very much appreciated.

Cheers,

G[/quote]

No help on manufacturers here, but just to echo the preference for wider/thicker necks. I've tried tried and got rid of a Jazz and an Epi EB-3 on the grounds that I just didn't get along with the necks. I built a bass which was P width and was instantly at ease. Since then it's been P width all the way. I had a go of an OLP MM3 5 string - got rid of that because the strings were just too damn close together - it's probably my poor technique but I found it very claustrophobic.

Funnily enough I have found that either property (width/thickness) seems to make the difference - I have a Warwick Rockbass Corvette which is J width but a lot thicker front to back and it seems comfy enough which surprised me.

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If it's one of the 80s SR1000s (with the ebony board and the DiMarzio pups labelled 'C1' or somesuch), I sold one two years ago for £225. It was pink, though. They're a lot of the bass for the money, but not very sought-after, as far as I can tell.

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You're right, that it might be an issue related to depth and/or width of the neck and wrist angle, but there may be other reason. One major source of problems can be position - it's important to maintain the same playing position whether standing or seated, to avoid your wrist having to make micro adjustments. Another major source can be string tension - it's important to recognise the point of positive resistance, as the fretting hand never makes contact with the touchboard.

For me, after I started suffering pains in my wrist and fingers I found that switching from a long-scale (34") to a medium-scale (32") neck relieved the problems.

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[quote name='xgsjx' post='433299' date='Mar 13 2009, 09:46 AM']I've had my ibby SR1000 for about 20 years & as of this past couple of years it's been giving me a sore wrist when trying to play chords or octaves (I posted something about this in the general forum). I've checked with the doc & there's nothing there, so I went to my local (music shop) & tried a few different basses just to hold my fretting hand on & spent about 45 mins in the shop doing this with Fender & Cort basses (all he really has in) and I never got any pain in my wrist at all. That leads me to conclude that the very shallow neck is the culprit.

So now I'm thinking about getting rid of my bass (which I don't wanna do :) ) and replacing it with something else with a thicker neck (about 90% of other basses I recon!).

Problem is, I've no idea what it's worth to sell & what sort of money I'd be needing to spend to get a bass of similar quality.

The bass has quite a few chips in it but plays like the day I bought it & has been ultra reliable, I've never had the need for a backup bass.

Any help on pricing what I should sell this for (if I do) & ideas on manufacturers to replace it with would be very much appreciated.

Cheers,

G[/quote]
My osteopath has treated various musos, bass and drummers. He points out that we sometimes vear towards adopting a bad playing position. I had a problem many years ago on double bass where my teacher at the time simply altered the angle I held my wrist AND elbow height. This completely "cured" the wrist angle pain I had been suffering.
With electric bass, I see my osteo every 6 months or so to get me bones "rejigged" back into alignment but he always asks that I wear the bass higher rather than lower. He reckons that in his experience, the arm/wrist/shoulder action is better helped with a decent height held instrument.
You stated that you felt okay in the shop playing bass but if were you sitting then you may well have been playing with the bass at a different height/angle than your normal standing position. Also, angling the bass neck upwards a bit may help.

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Unfortunately I do get the same pain sitting down playing my bass & I have it hung so it sits pretty much the same either sitting or standing.

I have for the past few months tried loads of different positions (with my bass that is), adjusting the strap length & the angle I play it at & tend to normally have the neck up a little so the headstock is roughly in line with my shoulder, but I still get the left wrist pain after holding chord positions etc for more than 10 mins.

All is fine if I'm just playing single notes and most scales are painless & I've recently lowered the action of the strings to see if it helps but to no avail.

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My G&L L2000 tribute has a beast of a neck! At the nut it`s 44mm and feels quite a handful at first but no probs after playing it for a bit. It might feel strange comin from an Ibby but it`s better than any Fender I ve played.

It`s a great bass, every sound you can think of, passive and active. The build quality is superb as well. Mines was £560 brand new from Hartnoll Guitars. I bought it over the net but it arrived nicely set up.

Here`s a wee piccy.
Jez

[attachment=21978:SUNP0011.JPG]

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[quote name='bass_ferret' post='434140' date='Mar 13 2009, 08:32 PM']I have always found modern Warwicks a bit on the lardy side :)[/quote]

I should maybe point out I haven't played a Warwick newer than about 1995. I've always had older ones.

Whoever mentioned technique above might have a point. If you're fretting too hard that could cause problems pretty quickly. In my experience super-skinny necks tend to cause cramp-like feelings in my fleshy thumb-drumstick area (technical anatomical name there) but have never given me wrist issues. I usually think of wrist pain being caused by gripping too hard or bending the wrist in weird ways while playing.

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[quote name='xgsjx' post='433345' date='Mar 13 2009, 10:32 AM']It's the SR1000E from 1990, with IBZ C2 pups.[/quote]

I'd say Dangerboy's right about the price range - last year I sold a 1990 SR800 fretless for £250.

Off the top of my head, 1990 was around the transition point between Japanese & Korean manufacture - an "F" prefix serial will be Japanese (Fujigen Gakki) & these will probably get a slightly better price than later Korean versions.

I played SRs for years but don't get on with the skinny necks at all any more.

Jon.

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From the sound of it, I might just keep my bass if it's worth very little. The sentimental value is higher than £250.
It is a Jap model & the serial starts with F & then 6 #s. I got offered £600 for this bass about 10 years ago & was tempted to sell as I wasn't playing much, but was glad I didn't not long after (joined another band for a brief spell).

I'm gonna have a look at some cheapish Warwicks as I tried a Corvette last year & liked it. I do plan on getting a bass built but I think that'll be at least a year away. I've seen a couple of things that might be of interest but I need to wait until next month to see what my work bonus is like.

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It does look like a painful position on my Avatar, but I normally don't play in that sort of position.
My bass is usually directly in front of me & the strap holds it in the same position whether standing or sitting. I usually have the neck tilted up slightly to keep my wrist fairly straight.
The majority of songs I'm ok, it's just holding chords or playing octaves via string skipping that gives me jip.

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