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Dr Lo-Riders


Turk
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Yes... they're too expensive! I've played pretty much all the strings there is to play over the years. DR's are great. However the price of them is just crazy, and I've played plenty of other brands of strings that do just the same thing at a far more affordable price. Having said that, all strings are expensive right now.

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DR's are expensive, but I think they are worth it.

I've been trying Dunlop Nickels for the last year. They are cheaper and were recommended but while they sound nice they don't last half as long as DR.

I think I'll be going back to DR after this set of Dunlop’s.

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Thanks for the input guys. I'm looking at Lo-Riders specifically. Not DR's in general.
The Lo-Ridares are apparently slightly stiffer than standard. Has anyone any experience with the Lo-Riders. Is there much of a difference between them and other stiongs of the same guage ?

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A voice for the opposition...

Personally I can't stand DR strings they all feel far too floppy for me especially E and low B. After seeing lots of rave reviews for them here I went out and bought a range of sets including Lo-Riders. I didn't like any of them and I can't remember the Lo-Riders feeling any stiffer than the others.

Having said that string choice is a very personal thing and there are plenty of people who do like DR strings here...

Personally I prefer La Bella Hard Rockin Steels.

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I currently have a set of 105 Lo-Riders on my Jazz Bass. I noticed they died much quicker than other sets of DRs I've had, and I didn't notice any extra stiffness. If you are interested in trying them, there are some US sellers on ebay that do great deals.

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First thing to consider is that DR strings are pressure wound, unlike the Warwick Reds, so you should consider dropping a gauge to attain compliance closest to that which you're currently used to. As for the specifics of Lo-Riders, this design uses a hex core - Hi-Beams employ a round core. Strings with hex cores will feel less compliant (more stiff) than strings with round cores, and with like for like gauges there is an appreciable difference in feel between Lo-Riders and Hi-Beams. As to why some people experience Lo-Riders "dying" more quickly than other DR designs, such as Hi-Beams, this is a common feature for any string designed around a hex core, and occurs as the ratio of void to metal is higher and as these voids fill with play wear detritus. Simply wiping such strings down after use would significantly extend life cycle.

Personally, I don't think there's one right string. You have to match your string choice to your particular instrument - and by that I mean the instrument(s) that you own. Among the Yamaha BB2000 series basses I own, two have serial numbers within ten digits, so manufactured within a few days of each other in the early 80s. One can be set with an exceptionally low action, and works best with DR Sunbeams (a string that works well with many of the 2000s); the other can't be set as low and works best with a stiffer string - and although I tried Lo-Riders, over the course of six months, it now wears R Cocco strings. Similarly, the majority of Aria Pro II SB series basses I own work best with Lo-Rider Nickels, with the exception of an SB900 and an SB-R150, both of which work best with Dean Markley SR2000 strings. But, for consistency and quality, DR is the string I consume in the greatest quantity. Bought in bulk, by the box, you can get some good deals.

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i think DR Low riders are awesome... expensive yes but worth it... hex core for extra stiffness.. you can get a real low action on these,.. an amazing precise tone on a jazz bass

i do prefer the round core strings though, for a bit of floppy growl on a jazz bass.. MM's are my string of choice...i dont want to sound like Marcus Miller but they feel great to play, and they have a great bottom end to them... i will probably never buy another brand of string...

Edited by bubinga5
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[quote name='Turk' timestamp='1337380825' post='1659264']
I currently use Warwick Red Label (45-105). Pondering over trying Dr Lo-Rider steels. Any input or opinions ?
[/quote]
I used to use Warwick Black Labels in the same gauge and have moved on to Sunbeams (on my jazz) and Lo-Riders (on my Stingray 5). I think, like pretty much all of the replies so far, that there's a limit to how much other's experience can tell you as string choice is so personal but I really like the Lo-Riders. They are expensive, which would be a pain if you didn't get on with them.

What is it you want that you're not getting from the Red Labels?

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Not tried lo-riders.
I have tried Hi-beams (nice)
and the Marcus Full beams - which are amazing on my P after about a year and a half... but on the warwick as they got older they were too bassy. Now got a set of the coated DR on it which I'm enjoying.
I like DR strings. If you want something similar and cheaper Status' Hotwires are pretty good

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[quote name='benthos' timestamp='1337452222' post='1660379']
I used to use Warwick Black Labels in the same gauge and have moved on to Sunbeams (on my jazz) and Lo-Riders (on my Stingray 5). I think, like pretty much all of the replies so far, that there's a limit to how much other's experience can tell you as string choice is so personal but I really like the Lo-Riders. They are expensive, which would be a pain if you didn't get on with them.

What is it you want that you're not getting from the Red Labels?
[/quote]

The Reds are fine, but I'm trying to get the action lower again, so a slightly stiffer string should help.

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[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1337425913' post='1659695']
Just looked through all my string sets and have discovered that I still have a set of unopened DR Lo-Riders Nickel Plated 45, 65, 85, 105 - that's set NMH-45 that you can have for £10 including postage if you want to try some out cheap.
[/quote]

If the op doesn't take you up on these I'll gladly take them?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I didn't find the Lo-Riders noticeably "tighter" than their Fat Beams, or any other string! And, as others have commented, I did notice that the LRs lost their zing earlier than the others.

On the price thing, I have looked at buying in bulk from the States - but if you get hit for import duties and suchlike, the savings can be minimal. It seems to be a bit of a lottery whether you get charged or not! :huh:

Edited by Conan
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[quote name='noelk27' timestamp='1337426664' post='1659721']
First thing to consider is that DR strings are pressure wound, unlike the Warwick Reds, so you should consider dropping a gauge to attain compliance closest to that which you're currently used to. As for the specifics of Lo-Riders, this design uses a hex core - Hi-Beams employ a round core. Strings with hex cores will feel less compliant (more stiff) than strings with round cores, and with like for like gauges there is an appreciable difference in feel between Lo-Riders and Hi-Beams. As to why some people experience Lo-Riders "dying" more quickly than other DR designs, such as Hi-Beams, this is a common feature for any string designed around a hex core, and occurs as the ratio of void to metal is higher and as these voids fill with play wear detritus. Simply wiping such strings down after use would significantly extend life cycle.

Personally, I don't think there's one right string. You have to match your string choice to your particular instrument - and by that I mean the instrument(s) that you own. Among the Yamaha BB2000 series basses I own, two have serial numbers within ten digits, so manufactured within a few days of each other in the early 80s. One can be set with an exceptionally low action, and works best with DR Sunbeams (a string that works well with many of the 2000s); the other can't be set as low and works best with a stiffer string - and although I tried Lo-Riders, over the course of six months, it now wears R Cocco strings. Similarly, the majority of Aria Pro II SB series basses I own work best with Lo-Rider Nickels, with the exception of an SB900 and an SB-R150, both of which work best with Dean Markley SR2000 strings. But, for consistency and quality, DR is the string I consume in the greatest quantity. Bought in bulk, by the box, you can get some good deals.
[/quote]

Completely agree with that. With a little exception to the Jonas Hellborg Signature set which contains a roundcore with a single outer wrap. These strings are quite stiff compared to the DR range.

Plus I´m a huge fan of the R.Cocco strings, too. Especially the steel strings. Their nickels are more stiffer.

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Used to use DR strings..and mostly Hi Beams, exclusively for nigh on 20 years. The low rider has a T-core, IIRC.. and DR used to be about quality and the premium was worth it then. I don't feel that now.
From all that time using them, I would say they were about the best around, IMO..and I've tried loads to replace them of late and they are still up there fresh out of the pack - subject to my QC theory- but I don't use them now and am giving away all my old sets.

I would put Super steps on a par with DR's now..Ken Smith also and XL pro's just below. Those sets are also about £10 per cheaper per 5st set.

I use Newtone customs now and I feel they are the string that DR use to be, IMO.

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[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1339411005' post='1687944']
I use Newtone customs now and I feel they are the string that DR use to be, IMO.
[/quote]

I have a set of Newtone Diamonds on my Geddy Jazz. Great when new, but nowhere near the life span of the DRs for me.

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I use the LoRiders since ten years and more.
They are expensive but I never found something like that in sound but cheaper.
In my opinion they are the most versatile stainless steel that DR make. They are a little bit brighter than Hi Beam. Just give it a try once.
Everybody has personal taste on strings about bass tone and playbility, so the best move is give it a check. Cheers

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[quote name='CBbass' timestamp='1337478050' post='1660702']
When I finally get a bass I'm happy with I plan to get some of these. I have used hi's for a while now but I think lo's will give me what I'm after. In regards to quality, you can not go wrong with DR strings.
[/quote]

Hmm, got a set last week that were a bit dodgy. The E string was uneven and had extra winding in two places. I've used DRs exclusively for 2 years now - mostly they are great. Don't know about the low riders as i always use the High Beams which seem to last me about 6 months and i play a lot. That said, i hate em when they are new and it takes about 2 weeks to get them how i like em.

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[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1339411890' post='1687964']
I have a set of Newtone Diamonds on my Geddy Jazz. Great when new, but nowhere near the life span of the DRs for me.
[/quote]

That is strange... I go through strings quickly but have had a set of Newtones on since before Xmas..which is unheard of for me.

I have looked after them and protected them but even so..a month is around the best I can do for strings normally...and the brightness of strings is critical for me.

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I will chime in here, as DR is a NJ, USA company with deep roots in the industry, and they do things sorta the old fashioned way.

Every string is made here in NJ. QC is sick good, and they do spend a lot of time making string sets so they are balanced. While it may add to the cost, well worth it.

Lo-Riders are the only DR string over a hex-core. So they are more like a standard string you would find in any shop, and have a similar response, at least I've found that. To me they are high end steel bass strings, but definitely have more low and definition in the low.

DR strings is owned and founded by Mark Dronge. Mark is the son of Al Dronge. You would know Al Dronge as the owner and founder of GUILD. Sadly, Al passed away many years ago, but left his son with a great legacy that still continues today at DR.

tom

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