clashcityrocker Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 hey all. so after getting my combo fixed and adding a new cab (ashdown 575w abm with 2x10 cab) i was quite annoyed that it seems way quieter than i expected. on over half way in a tiny little practcie room. the dude at the rehearsal place (long term bassist) said i should just use my Active bass (musicman sterling) on the passive setting,i tried this for 5 mins and it was twice as loud on the same volume setting. can i do this long term or will it bust my amp/bass!? is the musicnam output just really really quiet?also on passive setting,the little input dial on the amp actually moves whereas on the active setting it doesnt move at all,suggesting its hardly getting a decent signal cheers thanks alot,this is annoying me!!! simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andydye Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Hav had several mm basses and have always used them in the 'passive' hole, I was told that only mega Pokey active basses like alembic etc go in 'active'... This may it may not have been correct info but it has worked fine for me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_b Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 [size=4][color=#222222][font=Arial]Doesn't everyone use the passive input? [/font][/color][/size][color=#222222][font=Arial][size=1][/size][/font][/color] [size=4][color=#222222][font=Arial] [/font][/color][/size][color=#222222][font=Arial][size=1][/size][/font][/color] [size=4][color=#222222][font=Arial]I've played active basses for 20 years and I always use the passive input. You get more poke and better dynamics that way![/font][/color][/size][color=#222222][font=Arial][size=1][/size][/font][/color] [size=4][color=#222222][font=Arial] [/font][/color][/size][color=#222222][font=Arial][size=1][/size][/font][/color] [size=4][color=#222222][font=Arial]ps [/font][/color][/size][color=#222222][font=Arial][size=1][/size][/font][/color] [size=4][color=#222222][font=Arial]I’d also get another 210 to get the best out of your amp.[/font][/color][/size][color=#222222][font=Arial][size=1][/size][/font][/color] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warwickhunt Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 +1 with using whichever sounds best... your ears will tell you if you are driving it too hard and you can then tweak it back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deanbean502 Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 I always use the passive input it really pushes the tubes in my head without having to crank it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franzbassist Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 Yes, always try the passive input first. If it distorts (in a way you don't want or like), lower the input gain or switch to the active input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_5 Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 [quote name='deanbean502' timestamp='1325361093' post='1482607'] I always use the passive input it really pushes the tubes in my head without having to crank it up. [/quote] ditto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prime_BASS Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 (edited) Depends on how much headroom you feel comfortable with on your gain stage. Personally I like a lot, but a lot of active slots I find the gain knob needs winding way past 12'o clock. I find amps with one slot have better range on the gain stage, and some have a -dB cut button. Also much easier to work with. You should use which ever one achieves the appropriate gain level to get the most out of the amp. Edited January 1, 2012 by Prime_BASS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluRay Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 I have MM bass and ABM head - and always have to use the passive setting. The Vu meter hardly budges otherwise. I think MM basses must have quite a low output. But when I use the westone, it clips so have to use active for that. I think it just comes down to whatever sounds best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clashcityrocker Posted January 1, 2012 Author Share Posted January 1, 2012 Thanks alot guys. Will be straight in the passive mode tomorrow Also,with the 8ohm combo and the 8ohm cab I should be getting 4ohms from the amp so the full potential of 575watt? Even though its a 2x10 not a 4x10? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixdegrees Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 I used an old Trace Elliot SMX dual compressor in front of the pre-amp to boost the signal, but without clipping the pre-amp. This gave the head a much better signal to work with and resulted in much more clarity and punch, as well as perceived volume. The only downside was more string noice - mostly a bit of 'clank' when playing solo. It's almost like turning a passive Jazz into a semi-active bass. But it may have the reverse effect if used with an active bass and end up cutting/clipping the output of the bass. You're welcome to borrow it and see if it works for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluRay Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 [quote name='clashcityrocker' timestamp='1325419750' post='1482889'] Also,with the 8ohm combo and the 8ohm cab I should be getting 4ohms from the amp so the full potential of 575watt? Even though its a 2x10 not a 4x10? Cheers [/quote] Yep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icastle Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 Same as just about everyone else - everything gets shoved into the passive socket here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VTypeV4 Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 Use the VU meter and trim it to just less than 0dB. Its what its there for so you trim the input to the optimum level irrespective of passive or active input.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warwickhunt Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 [quote name='VTypeV4' timestamp='1325437747' post='1483137'] Use the VU meter and trim it to just less than 0dB. Its what its there for so you trim the input to the optimum level irrespective of passive or active input.. [/quote] This is the 'Ashdown' VU meter we are talking about... well known for being as much use as a chocolate fireguard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leftyhook Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 I have a passive and active bass. I use a Hartke 350 head with options for both. They balance out when in appropriate inputs. I have however used my active bass in the passive input of an Ashdown combo for around 4 years. No problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VTypeV4 Posted January 1, 2012 Share Posted January 1, 2012 [quote name='warwickhunt' timestamp='1325438588' post='1483154'] This is the 'Ashdown' VU meter we are talking about... well known for being as much use as a chocolate fireguard! [/quote] In such a case, another reason I'll stick to Trace Elliot! I'm not a massive fan of VU meters anyways, my Allen & Grief GL3000 has a number of them on the meterbridge. They are interesting but do have to be interpreted differently, especially with transient signals ie bass guitar or drums vs hammond organ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thurbs Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 I see in a lot of other threads talk about "gain at 11 o'clock" and "volume at 11 o'clock". This suggests to me that some users see the two knobs as separate volume controls which is far from the case (all be it have similar perceivable effects). I have always used the rule that the signal path should be as hot as possible throughout the chain feeding in to the power amp. The logic being that hotter the signal the less likelihood there is for interference. That way the power amp is amplifying the largest possible signal, you get less interference and more gain. To find out what the limit is for a signal I pluck whilst turning up the gain until either the clip light comes on or you can hear distortion, then back it off a bit and hey presto, you have a hot signal. This is slightly different when you are driving pre-amp valves if you want distortion but with the ABM you can control the valve drive separately. So to answer the OP, I would put the guitar in the hole which means you have the hotest posible signal going to the power amp without causing clipping or distortion. The only active bass I used with my old ABM was a 2 x 9v Ibinez and that was hotter than a nun in a cucumer farm and was fine in the active hole and I was able to control the gain no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmmettC Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 [quote name='Thurbs' timestamp='1325578484' post='1484494'] To find out what the limit is for a signal I pluck whilst turning up the gain until either the clip light comes on or you can hear distortion, then back it off a bit and hey presto, you have a hot signal. This is slightly different when you are driving pre-amp valves if you want distortion but with the ABM you can control the valve drive separately. [/quote] +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4 Strings Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Always use the passive regardless - Except...! I have just put a new battery (first one) in my US Jazz Deluxe and it overdrives the passive unput on my Hartke. Dead worried, I tried the active hole and all ok. First guitar I've used which actually needs the pad on the active input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassace Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 I played my DB a while ago through a Superflightcase. As I had an outboard preamp to impedance match the piezo pickup I naturally(?) put the signal on active setting. Sound was so-so (I knew the stage was 'difficult') so I switched to passive with the gain set high. Sound much improved with a nice clear middle. Knocked the compressor out and I had the best sound possible. So pleased that I went and got a smaller Flightcase for easier load-in on smaller gigs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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