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Sparky Mark

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Everything posted by Sparky Mark

  1. If you never intend moving it out of your house I would recommend removing the 6550 valve retaining springs. They can scratch the glass surface of the valve leading to cracking and failure. I actually replaced them in mine with Ampeg retainers that only grip the valve base. I think their purpose is to stop valves unseating themselves during transit, therefore not required if it's staying put.
  2. I get the impression that they were just too expensive to produce. There seems to have been a limited production run in 2012 then no more. Talkbass threads report that some units had terminal problems but others are still going strong both in home and regular gigging situations.
  3. I bought one a couple of years ago and it's a beautiful sounding amp. I am impressed with the quality feel of the controls and the infinium auto bias. Like you I don't have a gigging need for it, but I can guarantee that when you hook it up to a decent 4 ohm cab ( a single 12 won't do it justice IMO) you will be even more amazed at the depth and quality of sound of this amp.
  4. By stating Markbass Proprietary Technology (MPT), Markbass wanted to differentiate itself from all the amp companies that used proprietary (off the shelf) ICE class D power modules by emphasising that its class D power sections were of its own design and manufacture.
  5. Markbass did the switch to class D in the LM3 in 2012.
  6. I don't think that amp tech knows what he's looking at. The 500 watt Momark power frame is class AB but with a switch mode power supply meaning it doesn't need large transformers associated with more traditional class AB heads. Just because it's light doesn't mean it's class D. The LM2 and early LM3 were class AB. The Momark 800 watt power frame is class D.
  7. Whereabouts are you?
  8. Bought a bass from Tom today. He's a busy chap (just back from Germany) but was still happy to drive and meet halfway to do the deal at a great price. Another trustworthy Basschatter. Cheers Tom; safe travels.
  9. Not without swapping out the 4 ohm speaker in your combo for an 8 ohm one; then you can.
  10. Which head are you using? I ask because the dimensions of that cab are to suit the Ampeg full width heads including the SVT and V4 etc. Which cabs have you tried out that didn't work for you? Could be that a single 12 or 15 might not give you that full precision thump (if that's what's lacking?) on its own and a second cab (or a 212 or 410) would get you there.
  11. If you want additional tone options something like a Tech 21 VT Bass pedal would be a lot cheaper and possibly easier to use.
  12. You have an option to replace the internal 4 ohm speaker with a suitable 8 ohm version, then you can add another 8 ohm cab. Two 8 ohm cabs will be significantly louder than the single 4 ohm internal speaker.
  13. If the speaker in your combo is marked as 8 ohms then you will be okay to connect another 8 ohm extension cab giving the total impedance of 4 ohms.
  14. Does the amp in your combo have two or three speaker outlets?
  15. Thanks Justin. Totally agree with John's comments; there's no way I would attempt any maintenance on any amp, let alone a valve beastie. I was more interested to find out how simple a valve swap would be for a tech if and when the time came. If your new set lasts as well as the originals that'd see me out. The question about impedance wasn't so much about using 2 ohm cabs, rather that you could connect a 4 ohm load ( one 4 ohm or two 8 ohm cabs) to each of the two 4 ohm outputs. Those outputs give loads of options.
  16. Sorry to be thick but it looks like this can operate at 2, 4 and 8 ohms output? Have the valves ever been replaced? I also know nothing about how valves are biased but the photos in that link don't show any trim pots or devices that would allow bias adjustments?
  17. Then add SOLD the thread title. Cheers.
  18. You're welcome. Although it's very lightweight for a 410 cab having slot ports at both front top and bottom makes it fairly tall and it's quite deep too. But those dimensions allow it to go deep as well as very loud. I'd recommend that you get a 4 ohm version if possible as you can utilise your amplifier's full output as I can't imagine needing to add another cab. It's that loud with a genuine 500 watt head.
  19. I used to have a 4 ohm STD104HF which I used with either a LM3, SA450 or TA503 head. It was absolutely the best cab for larger or outside venues. Too big physically for my latest car and small pubs so it had to go. I don't know if the current version is as good as my earlier version loaded with B&C speakers. At £400 for secondhand it's a brilliant 410.
  20. What year was it made please?
  21. An amp doesn't deliver an impedance, it sees that load which means it can deliver up to its maximum output. A 212 cab may be able to utilize more than the 300 watts if it isn't hitting its limits/maximum output already. Thermal ratings have little to do with volume, just how much heat the speaker can dissipate. A high sensitivity/efficient speaker will get loud with less power and then have to dissipate excess input energy as heat. A larger speaker should be able to move more air and dissipate more heat.
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