Sparky Mark

We're all getting older and weaker. We all know ceramic speaker loaded cabs, heavy iron amps and anchor weight basses sound best but balsar wood basses, class D heads and neo cabs are the latest fad. I remember when bass players were real men not a bunch of feeble bodied whiners.

My slab bodied pre Ernie Ball natural ash Stingray (on the left) was my only bass for 10 years in my 20's. Even then I thought it was heavy but I've never played another that sounds as good. I'm convinced that the high mass is a factor in its immense low end. I'll have to dig it out from under the bed for a gig sometime but use lighter basses for convenience.

So what is it?

In order of capability (all things being equal) I would rate 10" and 12" loaded cabs from least to most thus: Single 10 (relatively low volume gig) Single 12 (low to medium duty) Two 10 (medium duty) Two 12 (Loud) 2 x Two 10 (Loudest of this bunch) I've never tried gigging a single 10 alongside a drummer without backline support and only use 4 strings. I doubt two small 10" cabs could go both loud and low especially with a 5 stringer if you're playing rock with drums.

The online videos don't do them much justice. They are a good young band, but they are a bit over hyped due to the Elton John connection. First time I saw them in Shepherds Bush it cost me £5, the second time £15 and well worth it. Of course they are never going to be as important as LZ, but compared to most of us middle aged cover band rockers they are worthwhile cutting some slack.

That video is awful. I've seen them a couple of times and have to agree with the LZ comparisons but I would have suggested Highway Tune as a better introduction to them. It's one of their earlier songs before the vocals went too high register.

The only thing I find a little disconcerting about mine is the thump from my cabs when I switch it on, even with the gain and output turned down. I've started to only connect my cabs once it's powered up which might not be necessary as the thump might be harmless (but makes me jump/cringe almost every time!).

Yes, but that's the only ones I could find too other than £25 plus VAT (plus shipping?) at Watford Valves. I agree that desoldering this tube would be tricky. It's most likely lead free solder (RoHS compliant) which is a pig without higher temperature equipment. If you really want a Markbass head with a valve pre I'd strongly recommend one of the older TA series.

Strangely enough, the loudest watts I've come across are the 300 or so that reside within my Bugera BVV3000I all valve head.

Yep. I got a pair with my Series 6 GP12 AH200.

Scratching my TE itch with this AH200.

That sounds like a good idea. Please keep us informed how much getting it working costs in the end. Cheers.