Sparky Mark

I usually only gig with a single bass so once the amp is set I don't need to adjust other than for volume or room effects. It's interesting that you comment earlier that this is the only head where you have to make major (other than input level?) adjustments between your pb and sr basses. I would see this as an indication that the ABM is giving a more accurate representation of both basses rather than imposing the amps sound. The one control that really needs to be set correctly is the pre shape button which I have off (pushed in).

Have you been able to use it with a band yet? I think this head really shows its strengths in the mix and can sound just average in isolation.

That's interesting and begs the question of what you don't like about it?

£479 for a genuine 600 watt RMS class AB power amp with footswitchable 12ax7 and solid state blendable pre amp, 9 band EQ with mid pre shape, variable compressor and octave down, mute switch plus more is a fantastic deal for the best to date ABM. The only issue with all the above is that to get your tone (which almost certainly is in there) with ABM heads requires spending time learning how all the features work and interact with each other. Because I own lightweight amps that I play basically flat ( and I'm lazy) my ABM600 hasn't made it to a gig yet but at rehearsals it has demonstrated to me its immense power and flexibility. If I could only afford one amp I would be happy if it was an ABM600 evo iv; I'd just have to pull my socks up and learn how to use it properly.

If you haven't got one, download the ABM user instructions which gives full details of what the compressor is doing and how it is dependent on setting the input levels optimally.

It's most likely got the mini tube pre (not a 12ax7) as per the Momark and LM tube. The graphic looks to be from the Momark range too. The power section is per the Ninja head. It'll be in Markbass yellow too I reckon although the colour in the photo looks darker. Looks good to me but £800ish for far east product could be too high.

We're all getting older and weaker. We all know ceramic speaker loaded cabs, heavy iron amps and anchor weight basses sound best but balsar wood basses, class D heads and neo cabs are the latest fad. I remember when bass players were real men not a bunch of feeble bodied whiners.

My slab bodied pre Ernie Ball natural ash Stingray (on the left) was my only bass for 10 years in my 20's. Even then I thought it was heavy but I've never played another that sounds as good. I'm convinced that the high mass is a factor in its immense low end. I'll have to dig it out from under the bed for a gig sometime but use lighter basses for convenience.

So what is it?

In order of capability (all things being equal) I would rate 10" and 12" loaded cabs from least to most thus: Single 10 (relatively low volume gig) Single 12 (low to medium duty) Two 10 (medium duty) Two 12 (Loud) 2 x Two 10 (Loudest of this bunch) I've never tried gigging a single 10 alongside a drummer without backline support and only use 4 strings. I doubt two small 10" cabs could go both loud and low especially with a 5 stringer if you're playing rock with drums.

The online videos don't do them much justice. They are a good young band, but they are a bit over hyped due to the Elton John connection. First time I saw them in Shepherds Bush it cost me £5, the second time £15 and well worth it. Of course they are never going to be as important as LZ, but compared to most of us middle aged cover band rockers they are worthwhile cutting some slack.

That video is awful. I've seen them a couple of times and have to agree with the LZ comparisons but I would have suggested Highway Tune as a better introduction to them. It's one of their earlier songs before the vocals went too high register.

The only thing I find a little disconcerting about mine is the thump from my cabs when I switch it on, even with the gain and output turned down. I've started to only connect my cabs once it's powered up which might not be necessary as the thump might be harmless (but makes me jump/cringe almost every time!).

Yes, but that's the only ones I could find too other than £25 plus VAT (plus shipping?) at Watford Valves. I agree that desoldering this tube would be tricky. It's most likely lead free solder (RoHS compliant) which is a pig without higher temperature equipment. If you really want a Markbass head with a valve pre I'd strongly recommend one of the older TA series.