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Sparky Mark

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Everything posted by Sparky Mark

  1. You could add a Markbass New York 151 cab which has an adjustable piezo tweeter. This tweeter is fine when you can control its level. This cab is also the perfect size to stack under your JB combo.
  2. I'd never thought about this before but on reflection most of my non Fenders are natural finishes and the vast majority of my Fenders are sunbursts with tort. 3TSB, tort and dark, dark rosewood is my favourite.
  3. "Modifications: I have the brilliant Jon Shuker move the P Pickup a few cms towards the Bridge." I think you meant a few mms as there is about 7 to 8mm difference between the RH and standard P pup positions.
  4. The bridge pup on the RH has plenty of grunt on its own.
  5. I think it's an American Standard that were equipped with Custom Shop pups from about 2012. The lightweight tuners came in a little later (maybe a Professional Series?) The sticker on the scratchplate film usually specified the precise model.
  6. The Hydrive 410 is sealed too.
  7. Oh, twice above you'd said it was a 4x12 which was a great Trace Elliot cab. A modern 4x10 such as a Bergantino would outperform an old Trace Elliot 4x10 for sure. Or if you're happy to carry heavy cabs another TE 4x10 would make a significant difference to your volume.
  8. The 4x12 on its own should be quite formidable; I'd try it without the 1x15 and see how it goes.
  9. If you are driving a 500 watt RMS amp hard with distortion into that rig the 1x15 is the weak link. A 4x10 and 1x15 isn't considered a good match nowadays no matter what was common practice back in the 90s. A 4x12 (800W thermal rating) with 1x15 (300W thermal rating) is an even less balanced rig. Of course at reasonable levels you shouldn't have a problem but should have the 1x15 at ear level so you can hear when it gets distressed (although with distortion that could be difficult).
  10. This is a very good observation. Running 4x12 and 1x15 cabs together seems like an uneven system. The 4x12 won't even break into a sweat at the point the 1x15 is hitting its limits if you're playing at high volumes and blowing up amps indicates you are pushing things. (Lemmy used to pair his 4x12 with a 4x15).
  11. I figured that at £350 if mine went wrong I'd just skip it. 5 years on it's still working fine, although it's not been gigged yet. An Ampeg SVT is actually a few pounds heavier.
  12. I paid about £350 new for my BVV3000I and it's an amazing amp at any price. I think they were discontinued because the market for big heavy valve amps (that aren't Ampeg) just isn't there for a high volume producer like Behringer. It's the best sounding amp that I own and crazy cheap at £175.
  13. See if you can find a ceramic Bergantino 210; much lighter than a 410 and amazing performance.
  14. I think exactly the same about my pair of HD210 cabs. Most of my gigs only require one HD210 but the pair are as good as it gets for me.
  15. Probably so that Bergantino fans have to buy them even though their existing Bergantino cabs are likely just as good.
  16. The first Bergantino cabs I bought new untried were HT112ER and EX112ER from BD. Initially I was underwhelmed at a low volume practice session but at gig volume the depth and clarity of notes was a revelation. Next I bought a pair of neo AE112 cabs and seduced by their light weight retired the HT112ER and EX112ER to the under stairs cupboard. A couple of years on I bought a pair of Berg HD210 cabs and decided to sell my HT/EX as they weren't being used. However, firing up the HT/EX one last time I was amazed at how different they were to the AEs; seemingly deeper bass but with more control. The AEs were sold instead. I can't think of any scientific reason why my ceramic loaded cabs should have this extra "heft"; is the extra mass of the heavy ceramic magnet providing a more stable base for the driver/motor and less energy lost through cabinet vibration?
  17. Lovely set up, congratulations. P.S., The 600W label refers to the maximum power consumption of the head, not its output power which is approx 500 watts into a 4 ohm load.
  18. I'm a bit late to this thread but my CS62P is the closest to the real thing relic job I've seen. Only the CS logo, rubbish tort and finer thread tuners look different to my genuine 61P.
  19. Thank goodness this beauty is way too far for me to collect.
  20. Interesting to see you have the VPF at maximum ( bass boost and mid cut) at the same time as boosting high mids and cutting the lows.
  21. If the OP is driving his TB500 close to its limits he could be maxing his 115 cabinet which I believe may only be rated at 200 watts. The 410 is rated at 400 watts so could be okay but 250 watts into the 115 especially when pulling/hitting strings hard is going to cause distress that the amp may well be detecting. Another example of why 410 and 115 isn't the best combination.
  22. The amp cutting out could be the amp working correctly, not a fault. You mention that it cuts out when pulling on the bass strings; the amp could be detecting a dangerous condition for itself or your cabs and is going into protection mode. Simply using a more powerful amp might just give you the headroom to destroy your cabs. If you are using a fair amount of low end boost try reducing that a bit to see if it helps.
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