3below

I can fully recommend Peavey, Tour 700 is such an underrated amp. The sub octave thing is irrelevant in my opinion but rest of amp excellent. You also get 500W into 8 ohms, a bonus. I like them so much I have bought second one from this forum. There is one FS at the moment £225. Leaves you a good amount to purchase used Barefaced Cab if you get lucky or build own fEARful cab.

Fearful 15/15/66 combined with Crown XTi 6000 or QSC of similar power. Adequate clean headroom. Pre amp to taste.

As above seek help/advice. Small, tricky to tune, and I could never manage intonation let alone good sound (dead cats). I admire those who can, immensely,

Until you get band with big PA you need plenty of Watts and sensitive speakers. As mentioned before Peavey kit good value, I sold 300W bass combo for £130, fair tone, heavy though. In my current band, vocal pa only, guitars 20W combos, 700W peavey tour and barefaced Dubster is adequate. Peavey Tours on here for good money, then save for good cab or build own. Spend once, not many times. Have fun.

There is a Webber Mywatt 200 FS somewhere on here in last week or so. Unless it has gone, what more could a bass player need (apart from mass reduction).

Keep us posted what happens on this one, hope it all works out ok.

I have a double bass, will this book tell me how to play lolx, since I have no technique whatsoever. Mighte help me know 'about the double bass'. Best regards.

Heritage guitars are very nice, my 575 is a wonderous thing to play, unlike my playing lol.

[quote name='LiamPodmore' timestamp='1344780561' post='1769016'] Depending on the fan size, seeing as most of them use PC fans anyway, would it not be easier for companies to use silent/low noise fans in the first place? Liam [/quote] Agree, when I had peavey firebass 700 I replaced fans with low noise computer types. Was pretty cheap £12 or so. So that's £6 per fan, Which means they cost UK firm £3 each, which means £1.50 to make at a guess. So £6 on a £4 ~ 500 amp. They could of course use thermistor or some such temperature fan speed control. Cost of a thermistor - pence. Why the need for fans? Physics I am afraid. Only so much thermal energy removed by passive cooling in rack / micro head format. Forced convection much more efficient.

Starting point must be say yes, then get someone to look at it who knows. If you are electrically minded will be straightforward, replace electrolytic capacitors, then check resistors are in spec. Possible new valves, check bias and good to go. If not DIY, get quote, if too much move it on. I would quite like a bassman 100 as a fixer.

[quote name='Rumple' timestamp='1344684212' post='1767931'] I'm no expert (far from it) but maybe try getting the frets dressed? along with a set up from a good luthier that could solve the problem. [/quote] Agree with above, all sorts of things may be happening. My G&L never (and I guess still does not) liked strings that reduce to core going over bridge. 6/64 is pretty low action (by my standards), some basses just 'die' in tone with low action, some guitars the same. Choice of strings also relevant. So take to good luthier, my guess would be nothing fundamentally wrong, just needs sorting for low action.

Apart from my sudden taste for cheap Warwick Rockbasses (£150 tops) the G&L is my first choice bass, and has been for 22 yrs or so (if memory serves me right). Having tried Fender, Gibson, Rickenbacker etc etc in my youth, this is the bass I have settled on. I would not hesitate to have a tribute version.

You may get some mileage from a local machine shop - get them lathed to replicate the two you have. Stainless steel would look OK. You may be lucky and get them done at a fair price.

[quote name='gary mac' timestamp='1344438547' post='1764512'] The USA SB1 that I own is very very good. [/quote] Ditto, it just stays in tune and does a really wide range of tones. Get an early one and have the non pointy headstock

As I remember (if memory serves me) from my VBA, there are instructions for biasing stuck on the insides and it has test points. If you are electrically confident it is quite straightforward. If not seek help.

I would echo the advice, try, try and try them. Also take a look at where the P bass went afterwards - G&L SB1, mine is the bass I have kept longest in my many so far. It is a better bass than my 77 Precision was. You could save a fortune and just put a custom shop Fender pickup in your bass with the neck you like.

On my second BF now, first was Big One, swapped for current Dubster. Big One was best cab I have ever used - it needed a lot of watts to do it justice. Dubster is in my opinion even better. The gain in sensitivity is noticeable, and even though the high frequency response is limited I can get enough punch, twang or whatever. The 3015LFs can give serious volume without stress in this cab. The wheels are a super idea but they do not like the 'Dog & Duck' rough car park as mentioned earlier. The finish on newer cabs looks better, the plus is it can be touched up easily and a full refinish is a DIY job. I am currently building a 15/6 cab to replace my Big One for the smaller gigs, Dubster & 700W is overkill with double bass.