3below

Sean, great pics thanks, gives me a good idea about what to expect. With the cavity you could make a copper plate to fit and glue it in. Shielding and strength at the same time.

Useful to know about the body on the 300. No full re-finish for mine then I think.

pmd

I have the same desires lol. The one bass I ever regret shifting was a 58 EB2. I remember the mudbucker, the massive fretwear, the finish and fretboard wear and worst of all the floppy rattling E string and it farting out (heavy touch here) but I do miss it. I wonder what the mudbucker might sound like with a modern bass rig?. Best bet is to wait and see... due to my EB2 and re-living youth needs (have not bought Norton commando or Triumph 750 death wish so far) the Midtown is on my list. Has made me think is this a clever Gibson marketing ploy. Will it neck dive, will it do the EB3/2 tone without mud, does the headstock stay on (my EB2 did despite tuner bending drop) and will it stand up in a modern context. If it does these things, I want one, now.

Superb bass and what more would a Fender custom shop provide - better pickups possibly but they would be expensive at £1500+ extra. Outstanding

[quote name='mart' timestamp='1350575997' post='1840795'] If it's the resonant frequency, then it'd be the same wherever you played that same note, right? [/quote] It is also further complicated by requiring sufficient amplitude to cause the cancellation. The effect is likely to be less at higher frequency notes - less energy transmission. Not a simple situation and no simple magic bullet cure. If the previous suggestions do not help, in no particular order; Mass (brass?) plate screwed on back of neck (fatfinger as suggested before). Neoprene gasket in neck pocket ( there will be outcries about poor neck / body contact). Check neck pocket level / flatness. Thin aluminium/ steel plate in neck pocket. Metal plate under bridge. 'Big' metal block/insert under bridge. Metal strip under machine heads. Change machine heads. Rout body under pickguard , remove wood. None of these may work however

My 85 G&L SB1, had the opposite problem, super loud resonant note at D on the G string. Setup and change of strings fixed it. I think it was the setup since I had tried one other set of strings before and had the same problem.

Very nice, hope the addiction is not too bad.

Plenty of amps out there with EL34 or 6L6. If you want a modern monster get a Marshall VBA 400, also get body buidling lessons as well. Bargains are still out there, my Sound City was only £175 including a 2x12 cab.

Awesome, in the late 70s I wanted one of these, however a new Fender P was way cheaper (and affordable as a student lol). It is for me one of the greatest shaped basses ever. Can I ask the burning question before I think about building my own replica. What is the balance like, any neck diving?

ok, whilst waiting for pics, does the small pcb fragment fix to the battery clip? If not, from where? this will allow me to do some further research (my rockbass corvettes are both passive so no help).

I find TI flats on my fretless have plenty of zing and twang. I have made a fretless Ric suffer badly using roundwounds many years ago, not an Ebony fingerboard though. Keep an eye on the board and if wear starts becoming an issue think string choice again.

Inspect as suggested above, then look for solder joints that have a grey matt appearance / rough rather than shiny smooth. Look for cracks in solder where it meets components. Any that look like above (or dodgy) resolder, may need to remove old solder (sucker or braid) and use new.

Can you post some close up pictures of both sides of the broken bit - repair may (and is only may) be possible.

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1349211592' post='1823479'] So 3below - at the risk of hijacking this thread - what kind of gigs do you do, and what is your rig? [/quote] Mainly at work these days (don't ask), involving audience up to 800, no pa support. Barefaced Dubster and before that Big One. Light, sensible size,loud and great clarity - the big hifi is my best take. Hope that helps.

The wait will be worth it - trust me

High powered valve head and passive cooling should be possible. How high powered are we going? Simple solution is a 'birdcage', complying with current regs about mesh size (what can / can not be inserted lol) combined with making the footprint large. For the more trad look (Hiwatt/Marshall etc) starting point will be back and front of amp are open at the lower parts (above control and output/mains plate) with the typical expanded mesh found on valve amps. Top is also extensively open with mesh. Inside you would have a stand off aluminium reflector plate above the chassis (say 5mm above), this would have some thermal insulation board below it to reduce conduction into the chassis and hence internal components. It could have slight curvature like electric fire? Layout should space the power amp valves as well apart as possible. Aluminium plates fixed at the sides of amp to channel convection currents and minimise radiation transfer into transformers. Must dig out text book on thermal transfer calcs if I have a sleepless night.

While waiting you could always construct a cab using the suggested Eminence designs. Get local timber supplier to cut plywood to size, get nail gun and expanding polyurethane glue. Enjoy. If is sounds good (and should do) finish with Tuffcab and way to go.

Day job, 7:45 start, finished 6:30, 10 mins lunch, eating while working (the hours are just part of the job, no overtime here lol) Band cancelled this week and is my fault since job moved a meeting at one days notice. What is a bass, do I play one ? I do enjoy my job, it is rewarding, and is nuts at times. Some might call it a career/profession/vocation.