3below

Totally edited out my earlier thoughts having looked at ebay, noted is mex tele so my comments N/A based on USA teles. Top E machine head looks misaligned (unless is photo distortion, very improbable with CNC tooling to drill the peg head location hole (1 on mex, two on usa I believe). In 40 yrs of guitar / bass playing (and 5 fenders of own) have never seen serial worn away on headstock. Then again it could happen.

Where is Mr Claber when you need him? Two 12" hmmm, now try my Barefaced Dubster with 700W (real W not class D Watts ) feel the power.

[quote name='mart' timestamp='1354382525' post='1885434'] This. In 2 lines Rhys has captured the sum total of human knowledge on this question. There really isn't anything to add to it. [/quote] One thing to add, in the long term, when you come to a refret, rosewood will be cheaper than maple - no relaquer. Other than that the above applies.

[quote name='hamfist' timestamp='1354254132' post='1884113'] I think we should all also consider a decent running in period for new cables. They can be very dellicate until properly broken in. [/quote] Should we have a running in period for the electrons

[quote name='Ancient Mariner' timestamp='1354133543' post='1882606'] How much are they asking? Is it worth taking a punt, knowing you can part it out and flog the bits without losing if it's an iffy copy with nice parts? [/quote] Agree, above is the key question.

Need to see pics, lots of them. You may be lucky in one of two ways: a bargain genuine USA, or a bargain well made 'clone'. Then again you could be unlucky

I have no problem, they can both play guitar in my band, they seem pretty proficient. How do I contact them?

£10 bargain, now re-port the cab to match modern (cheap) driver, will make a good practice amp, spare etc. Then again as above, remove head, make case.

Not far away, but in Mid Wales, scratch gig in Llanidloes 8th December - see some on the fly bass playing - or not perhaps.

[quote name='BassPimp66' timestamp='1353833327' post='1878749'] If you try to drive a 500W cabinet, with a 10 W amp, the amp may burn/explode/disintegrate trying to keep up. [/quote] The speaker is rated to thermally disspate 500W, it does not demand 500W from the amplifier. The 10W amplifier is rated to supply 10W (rms, AES, peak, phony Watts, makebelieve Watts, whatever) to the speaker. If the amplifier burns/explodes/disintegrates it is either due to a fault condition or poor design engineering and implementation, i.e. unable to operate at maximum power.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1353351721' post='1874141'] Watts don't break cabs. Stupid breaks cabs. Ask him if he's stupid, if he says 'no', you can assure him in that case the cab won't break. That's science. [/quote] agree, and put another way, when it sounds like you are destroying your speakers, you are. When it 'farts' turn it down. Action: Point to volume control in exaggerated way. I find the Crown XTi 6000 has plenty of 'headroom' into the 4" speaker 2.5W bass cab. Just unable to get the volume knob above 0.5 Have not destroyed the speaker yet.

It is not about need.

Natural finish.. which has best / prettiest grain / joins to your taste Solid finish... which is lightest. Now pickups.... let the debate begin? On a guitard thing I have two USA strats, the ash one is gorgeous to look at, furniture grade piece. weighs a ton . the other (alder/popla IDK) light, responsive, not pretty though, paint sinkage. Tone differences? they are both strats.

The late Boz Burrell, Bad Company. Many stunning songs.

Is there anything you can do to prevent same again, cable ties? break away lead / connector? looped cable to give 'safety margin'? Glad to hear all is good though.

Stuart is a super chap to deal with.. Excellent communication and the 3015 arrived next day. Many thanks.

Drilling the hole is easy, can you get me a set at amazing price from same shop?

Rockbass Corvette 5er bridge (one piece). I sorted mine by drilling the B string hole out Easy job with cordless drill. TI flats sound great on two of my basses, they are my string of choice these days. On my Rockbass 5er they sound great I just find the tension too low - weird. Bluejay's experience with D'Addario Chromes suggests my next step.

If Dave at Marshall is helpful, ask him, see what he says? Looking at the numbers V6 seems somewhat low compared to the others, try swapping it with V10, see if same pattern emerges. Then start looking at schematics and test values.

Cost effectiveness may be a big issue. In my valve amp building moments I have found it cheaper to buy s/h kit e.g. Peavey 120 W combos and use the big iron - transformers, chassis etc from these. Also get RCA / GE valves thrown in. For your project the lightweight Class D power amo combined with own pre amp might be the way to go (as mentioned before). You could build own chassis /cabinet to house?

One other tactic that can help is to heat them up, the differential expansion can sometimes 'crack' the corrosion products that have seized them. If you have access to a drill press you could drill out the grub screws from the top and then file out carefully. By this time I would be making my own new ones - much easier.

Rather than WD40 soak the saddles in penetrating oil for several days. You may be able to get an 'easy out' into the hex slots if you can get a smell enough one. Another approach might be to file flats onto the height adjusting screws. This will allow you to grip the screws with a suitable tool. Wait for further advice from Pete above. Final options; find a bridge with similar saddles and use saddle, use barrel shape saddles (fender style) that will fit, make new saddles from brass or stainless steel - not difficult Hope it goes well.