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[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1355881065' post='1904068'] I've discharges very big 1000uf 450v caps into my arm once, its educational rather than life threatening, unless you have a weak heart or something, pretty uncomfortable. [/quote] I have as well, gave me quite a a shock in all senses. Once done never repeated.

A good point by Mr Foxen. As mentioned above if any DIY internal surgery, work safely, discharge those smoothing (filter) capacitors (and check with DMM even if the amp has bleed resistors). Life is a one time trial not a practice run, we do not get a second go.

This sounds (pun intended) a great gig. Sadly I live way too far away I do have the big rig though, can make the walls and floor shake - 1400W and BF dubster and big one anyone

Very nice, and when I was younger, a very desirable thing and still desirable now. Give us a review compared to some modern and trad (P/J) basses if you can.

Bill Wyman bass lines are all rather good in that era in my view. One of my particular favourite albums is Aftermath.

Been using BF cabs (big one, now dubster) for 4 yrs (I think), no issues whatsoever. A few dings on dubster but I have Tuffcab to touch up, so all is good. Two 3015s and 700w now need to convince wife 3KW power amp is essential.

Could be the socket, could be the valve. Swap the two EL34 valves around. If the problem goes away it was possibly a poor contact in the valve socket. Swap them back. If the problem stays with one valve, it is the valve. Sometimes just taking the valve out and in a few times can clean the contacts and rectify the problem. If it is the valve, you will need to buy a pair and are then into a whole minefield of choice. I have found JJ to be good and a fair price.

One of each is needed I feel

Just some more thoughts, check the speaker wires, has one become detached? check speaker mounting bolts/screws are tight, is speaker baffle board firmly in (if bolted rather than glued), is the speaker cloth frame (again depends on construction) firmly in place. Another possibility is a valve has gone faulty due to the rough trip. To follow this up you will need a spare known to be good ECC83, and EL34. Replace each pre amp ECC83 in turn with the good one. Then do same with output EL34s in turn. This will show if it is a faulty valve. After this it is as above, [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]test equipment and ideally a circuit diagram with test voltages (or a good valve amp tech).[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Looks a nice amp, hope it is a simple fix.[/font][/color]

Easy check for loose valves - switch off (elf n safety), open cage or whatever that covers valves, gently wiggle them back in. See what happens. After that the next stages depend on how the Blackstar is constructed and your ability to work safely with valve amps, discharging smoothing capacitors prior to working inside chassis (or knowing whether it has bleed resistor) . If you are not ok with that stage do not attempt next bit. If it is pcb with modern push connectors, one of these may have worked loose. Check they are seated correctly. If it is point to point or similar check for any wires that have detached, if found re-solder. After these simple checks the going gets tougher, test equipment and ideally circuit diagram with test voltages needed (or a good valve amp tech).

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]1. Folk-blues[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]2. Approx 1cm at the end of the board on the E, falling to 0.8cm on the G[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]3. Corelli 370[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]4. Schaller magnetic[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]5. Peavey Tour 700 + Barefaced Dubster[/font][/color]

Reading the BFM site and forums you will also most likely need some form of eq. Behringer DEQ2496 processor seems to be well thought of on BFM forum. The low cost route would be suitable flat response mic and laptop software to measure response in room, then s/h 31 band eq.

I had no complaints about the quality of my 1977 precision, bought new, other than I had to set the neck alignment. The action was the lowest I have ever achieved on a bass. These days I prefer high action so that benefit is wasted on me.

[quote name='Dom in Somerset' timestamp='1355178707' post='1895196'] Staedtler, Berol or sharpie? Come on , it can't be that simple , we need a heated debate. [/quote] Is this another Bass forum, am I in the wrong place ? I am told the 10 Vintage Berol is snappier than the 08 Sharpie but only in the higher register.

[quote name='Dom in Somerset' timestamp='1355177108' post='1895162'] I use black nylon covered strings on my fretless basses, this solution would probably last forever. [/quote] I do as well on one of mine, the same set since 1981, seriously. They are still really good. Whether the permanent marker solution will outlast the strings is thus open to debate

Try a simple low damage method. If the lines are plastic inserts, get a black or brown (depending on ebony colour) permanent marker pen ( [url="http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en&q=staedtler+permanent+marker&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&bpcl=39650382&biw=1092&bih=505&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=6895590855099130917&sa=X&ei=31XGUNSZO4qK0AXL8oDoAQ&sqi=2&ved=0CF8Q8wIwBA"]Staedtler[/url] ). This used carefully will colour the lines for a long time. Re-apply as and when.

I guess you should be able to sand the lines off with fine paper. An alternate might be gentle application of paint stripper - small amount on a cloth?. Rather than lines, why not insert side dots at the fret positions. You can get away with positions 1,3,5,7,9,12 etc.

Totally edited out my earlier thoughts having looked at ebay, noted is mex tele so my comments N/A based on USA teles. Top E machine head looks misaligned (unless is photo distortion, very improbable with CNC tooling to drill the peg head location hole (1 on mex, two on usa I believe). In 40 yrs of guitar / bass playing (and 5 fenders of own) have never seen serial worn away on headstock. Then again it could happen.

Where is Mr Claber when you need him? Two 12" hmmm, now try my Barefaced Dubster with 700W (real W not class D Watts ) feel the power.

[quote name='mart' timestamp='1354382525' post='1885434'] This. In 2 lines Rhys has captured the sum total of human knowledge on this question. There really isn't anything to add to it. [/quote] One thing to add, in the long term, when you come to a refret, rosewood will be cheaper than maple - no relaquer. Other than that the above applies.

[quote name='hamfist' timestamp='1354254132' post='1884113'] I think we should all also consider a decent running in period for new cables. They can be very dellicate until properly broken in. [/quote] Should we have a running in period for the electrons

[quote name='Ancient Mariner' timestamp='1354133543' post='1882606'] How much are they asking? Is it worth taking a punt, knowing you can part it out and flog the bits without losing if it's an iffy copy with nice parts? [/quote] Agree, above is the key question.

Need to see pics, lots of them. You may be lucky in one of two ways: a bargain genuine USA, or a bargain well made 'clone'. Then again you could be unlucky

I have no problem, they can both play guitar in my band, they seem pretty proficient. How do I contact them?