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[quote name='leftyhook' timestamp='1359581730' post='1957126'] I really like my cheap Warwick rockbass freltess. nice feel and lovely tone.......... but.. a bit.... quite Suggestions? [/quote] ditto, I am wondering what to do with my Rockbass streamer, great tone, light, well put together, plays well... lacks volume (compared to G&L and Kramer) Suggestions please.

Nice repair idea, is just a matter of getting stuck in with correct value pots. I like Peavey kit of that era, it is bombproof and repairable. Downside was I did not enjoy the weight of my Bass Combo 300.

Need closer picture of pots to see how they are connected - solder to board or what. Also the dimensions - diameter of pot would be useful. I guess you know the values of the pots, if not [url="http://www.lbquota.net/cms/sites/default/files/download/105/peaveytnt115.pdf"]http://www.lbquota.n...eaveytnt115.pdf[/url] or Peavey are very obliging. They can also provide technical support above and beyond the schematics. I wanted to know the available heater current of a 1980s valve amp transformer - no problem. Look at the internals and appreciate the large discrete components with substantial PCB tracks. DIY repair is possible unlike a lot of modern kit

No, No, No, I must resist, it will result in divorce now where do I get one?

Getting into 'the zone' helps playing. When you get in 'the zone' you can just hit the right notes, all the fills, and seem to have all the time in the world to do it. Wish it happened more in my world.

[quote name='Sparkl' timestamp='1359412926' post='1954523'] I'm terribly and truthfully sorry if I offended someone, I just don't consider a Rockbass as a professional instrument. For hobby playing perhaps, for serious professional use, not really. There is a difference between a cheap instrument and true craftmanship. [/quote] No axe to grind here, whatever you buy it is your own money. I have recently bought 3 x rockbasses Chinese. Two of them are every bit as good as my USA basses (vintage G&L, Kramer), they also equal Gibson EB2 (1958), Ric 4001 (1977), Fender P (1977) and John Birch EB3 (1980?) that have been in my ownership over the years. My EB2 was a nice thing, between 1975 and 79 when I used it 5 nights per week I wore the frets off it, the finish (lovely Nitro) crazed, bubbled and wore down. I lived in fear of headstock break. Buy a 2nd hand Chinese rockbass, be amazed at the finish and quality. Then stick some after-market pickups of choice on it. In fairness the neck finish is thin compared to G&L and Kramer - 1980s poly and aged. If I drop, lose, have stolen or break my USA basses I will never replace them, largely because I will never find replacements, I know of one Kramer for sale on the Internet that is the same as mine. G&L SB1 1985 - how many can I find? Chinese Rockbasses £100 to £150 s/h - loads. It gets stolen etc, so what. It is not just Rockbasses either, there are so many high quality cheapies available. I am totally with Robin Trower on this one - get your sound from commodity gear. Craftsman built kit is superb, it is a joy to play. For me it is too valuable for the day to day. Bass buying / trading is rather difficult at the moment, I am amazed at what is available for so little. All I will say is judge what you have in your hands at the time, does it play well, do you like it, is it fair for the money. Long term resale values in the current recession .. hmmmmmmm

My first bass amp, IC100L. First real band pa amp, all circa 1974/5. How did we gig with 100W bass amps? especially since guitarists were using Marshall. Sound City, Hiwatt 100 Watters (cheap as chips then). Listen to Dr Feelgood Supidity to hear Wilko and HH amp(s) used to great effect.

Barefaced Dusbster - near indestructabilty Play that long low note....

[quote name='rmorris' timestamp='1359075599' post='1949684'] Maybe remove existing solder ( with solder wick ) and re solder. [/quote] +1 on remove old solder.

Hiwatt Custom 200 anyone? or DR103, owned both in my youth, why did I part with them I wonder now.

I had what I thought was a misaligned bridge, 1977 Precision brand new. I complained to Fender UK, v prompt and helpful reply. Loosen strings, loosen neck bolts, tap the neck on lower side at headstock, (moves E string side upwards in pocket in rotational movement, increases string to neck edge gap on G string). Retighten neck bolts and strings. [url="http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/174767-how-align-neck-body.html"]http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/174767-how-align-neck-body.html[/url] Ron Kirn's post has a good photo that explains what I mean. This may be part of your problem, then again may not. Can we have a photo of a straight edge (metre ruler etc) against G (D with your tuning) side of neck. Hope you get the customer service you need.

Very nice, reminds me why they were so desirable at the time. Class is timeless.

Do not be worried, it is very easy to do. The neck screws can take a remarkable amount of torque, you would have to be seriously hamfisted or determined to do any damage.

Have thought about this a bit more (not sure of brain power after day at work though). The unit only working when presence pot full on could be symptomatic of a 'fractured' solder joint. If the pot is a pcb mounted one it seems even more likely. The fix might be as simple as 'reflowing' the solder joints of the pot on the pcb.

Do Sansamp have a repair service in the UK?

In a similar incident this week, my dog knocked Rockbass Corvette 5 stringer over (yes I should put back in case). I go to play it, no sound. Open up control cavity, one wire detached from potentiometer. Easy DIY fix, and was not surprised, the soldering in this bass is not the best I have ever seen.

Where is Mr Foxen for the experienced viewpoint please?

Be brave, open it up and have a look. From what you say it could be something as simple as detached screen lead on a jack socket. If it is this obvious it is an easy DIY fix.

Must be an unreleased prototype model, never seen before. Hard to estimate scale length, the plastic drum must be some type of bass resonator?

[quote name='GreeneKing' timestamp='1358891065' post='1946795'] A local shop to me are simply brilliant and they are also developing online sales steadily.... Promenade Music. [/quote] Had great service and price from them online.

If they are 'black nylon covered' or similar tapewound then the scientific answer is yes (don't ask, I spent 3 years researching such stuff). The pragmatic answer is how long do you want them to last? My Roto Tru Bass strings on my Eko acoustic bass are the originals and are still good to go. I bought the bass in 1979? so 34 yrs old or so without use of freezer. Seems fair value for money.

Basschat.co.uk - the range, the price, the customer service [size=4] [/size]

All good so far, I will add Robert Cray, Big Bill Broonzy, Sonny Terry, Brownie McGee, John Lee Hooker, Savoy Brown, Groundhogs, Freddie King, Robon Trower (some), The late Jeff Healey, Walter Trout, Colin lake.... It is a wide field, I just love the blues, my type of music.

At this point it is the options time: i) measure pickup(s) output with suitable voltmeter, ii) visual inspection, look for dull / cracked solder joints, resolder. iii) Beg/Borrow an oscilloscope and investigate the output from pickup(s), and at various stages in the circuit. Ideally with a signal generator. Might be a faulty op amp (unlikely) or dry solder joint, more likely. iv) pay someone to find same ££. v) replace pre-amp £££. vi) buy high output passive pickups, more ££ and possibly not to taste. With logic and a circuit diagram i) through iii) will solve most issues. Find someone (Physics / science teacher or Electronic Engineer) to borrow the kit. It is not hard. Warwick have diagrams available on net. Pm me if you need further advice.

My s/h Rockbass Corvette 4 is my bass to go. Well built, lightweight, stays in tune, easy to play. One criticism, weak pickups - in comparison to G&L USA and Kramer USA. It was cheap as chips and the build quality is superb. s/h 5 stringer Rockbass fretless is even better built, ebony fingerboard staggering build quality for the money, cheaper than chips. A good set of strings costs 30% of these basses, the world is nuts.