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Not done it but yes should be easy, just disconnect the pickup and rewire it to a 2EQ using the same front plate. Use the output jack on the front plate and leave the side jack disconnected. I've recently acquired an SR 2EQ and love the preamp. To my surprise I have to say as I generally like to have a mid control. The SR 2EQ is very musical and sounds more open and organic than the 3EQ to my ears.

The Rumble 210 and 115 cabs are both 8 ohms. If connected in parallel that will be 4 ohms. The BQ500 has a min 4 ohm load so all will be well.

They're a bit on the heavy side I think. I've been looking for a 735 for a while but they've all been in the 4.3 to 4.5kg range which is a bit weightier than I'd like. The maple sandwich construction of the body probably bumps the weight up a bit.

Are they both series 1 models with the offset hi-mass bridge as in the pics below? As mentioned above, every piece of wood is different in grain structure and mass. The additional overall mass of the 6 will also be a factor. And even small difference in construction and setup can make a significant difference to the sound. Taking the attached pic as a reference here are a few other factors: 1. Width of neck - the wider neck of the 6 will most likely be generally stiffer than the 5. Also the construction of the neck is slightly different in that the two darker strips are wider apart. 2. Neck to body join - these are both neck through in construction but the bottom cutaway on the 6 is much deeper than the 5. 3. Intonation/saddle position - in the pic, the saddles on the 5 are further forward than the 6. If yours is similar, the smaller length of string between saddle and anchor point on the 6 will make it sound tighter. 4. Strings - are yours both wearing the same strings and of similar age/brightness?

You need to get out more 😄! Pickup construction varies (single-coil vs humbucker, magnetic poles vs bar magnets etc) but this vid shows you what's inside a typical jazz pickup.

So did I, back in the early 70s, it fed back like a howling dingo!

Not played a Danelectro but I too love my HCT Club. Does thumpy or articulate as shoulderpet says. There is a little neck dive but that's just the nature of the beast. The HCT has a gap between the end of the fretboard and the body which means you can use a 'tie-on' strap which helps to shift the anchor point as far left as poss. It also helps to prevent the bass rolling forward/away from you which always bothers me with strap buttons on the back like the Ignition. Mine came with a set of LaBella Beatle flats which are super smooth and really suit it well. I tried LaBella Beatle black nylons but felt they were a bit floppy. Much preferred the proper flats. The extra little bit of tension just helps the bass to speak and deliver it's quintessentially Hofner character. Very cool little bass.

"The Shark"

Another option here - http://www.ubertar.com/hexaphonic/one_and_two_string_pickups.html

I didn't ever get to play this particular one, it just made me sit up and pay attention to ACG. There happened to be a custom Recurve for sale on the ACG website at the time which proved to be irresistible! After nearly 10 years it's still one of my favourite basses. Mine has a single humbucker and piezo. It started life with the same dual filter preamp as on yours but I struggled with the extreme and somewhat unpredictable tonal range of the filters. After a couple of years I swapped it out for a more conventional East modular preamp which suits the mag/piezo pickup mix much better.

It was this very bass that lured me into buying my (superb) ACG Recurve fretless back in 2010. I'd never seen anything quite like it! Running a quick search in 'Basses For Sale' brings back a few ads for this bass which may help to piece together the ownership history before yourself (see ads dated Oct 2010, Jan 2012, Sep 2012, Dec 2012, Oct 2019). https://www.basschat.co.uk/search/?q=harlot&type=forums_topic&nodes=19&search_in=titles

This may help -

Looks like the speakers are wired in series which makes each cab 16 ohms. Running both cabs in parallel will bring that down to 8 ohms.

I can't find any aftermarket Stingray control plates in aluminium so looking at other options. My fall back plan is to hand-cut one from 1.5mm aluminium sheet but machine or laser cutting would be much better. If anyone on BC has the capability to do this and would be up for a small one-off project please drop me a PM. Cheers, Ian

I think we might be getting our wires crossed here! All Stingray bridges have studs (except the new post-2018 specials) but only early versions (pre-EB and up to 1994 ish) had mutes. The pre-EB you were playing would have had mutes, so they must have been missing.

The studs are just for the bridge mounting, the mutes are a separate component of early bridges. The studs carried over onto the later bridges without mutes.

A quick google for "rustoleum not curing" brings up a lot of other unhappy people experiencing similar issues. Ditching Rustoleum and starting again with something else may be the way to go...

Hold the string somewhere up by the nut while tightening, making sure to keep it loose over the saddle and through the body ferrule until the very end of the tensioning process. Give the string a quick wiggle before it starts to tighten over the saddle to get rid of any twist.

Just collected a Musicman SUB USA from Brendon, great bass, very nicely set up and plays superbly. Clearly a chap who knows how to look after his basses. Seamless transaction and top chap to deal with. Many thanks!