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ikay

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Everything posted by ikay

  1. +1 about avoiding an over-scooped EQ. The chart below of the freq response curve for a Stingray 2-band clearly shows the mid scoop with bass and treble maxed. The centre of this mid scoop falls around 200 to 800Hz which just happens to be G string territory. The G string frequency ranges from 98Hz (open) to 196Hz (octave) to 392Hz (2 octave). In practice the first harmonic is usually more dominant than the fundamental so the 'effective fundamental' freq range of the G string is double this - ie. from 196Hz (open) to 784Hz (2 octave). Slap bang in the scoop. The G string does of course generate other higher harmonics but these will sound thinner and weedier than the fundamental. Mind the scoop!
  2. That's a lovely pair, if you don't mind me saying 😄. I had a fretless Mouse for a few years and often wondered what a fretted one would sound like. Can't find any fretted demos on youtube. Would be interesting to hear some sound clips if you can find a way of posting a short demo.
  3. Here's a link to Fender catalogues going back to 2004 plus some earlier vintage ones. Might be a worth a look. https://guitar-compare.com/catalogs/fender-catalogs/ Reggaebass's suggestion of nail polish is a good one, I've used that for small dings before and there's a massive range of colours out there to play around with.
  4. Have you already seen this one? https://support.fender.com/hc/en-us/articles/214034783-Instrument-Finish-Color-Chart
  5. .
  6. If you like the Hofner vibe but not the Beatle bass shape then take a look at the Club. Cool little bass, I love mine.
  7. Freq charts for the EBMM 2-band EQ below for info. Not having a centre detent or 'flat' position can be a bit confusing. I found these charts really helpful in understanding what level of cut or boost was going on at various settings of the bass and treble controls.
  8. These are better, from the US though - https://reverb.com/item/19640053-lt-0484-000-10-clay-vintage-clone-1-4-inlay-dots-fret-markers-for-guitar
  9. Allparts do a 'vintage clone' dot inlay, although they don't look right to me: https://www.allparts.uk.com/products/fingerboard-inlay-dots-vintage-clone-1-4-inch-face-10-pcs-and-3-32-inch-side-dots-10-pcs
  10. +1 I recently did this with one of mine and was pleasantly surprised with how it evened up the string to string balance and opened up the tone.
  11. Sorry to be the one to ask 'that' question but what does it weigh? An accurate weight please if poss (not bathroom scales). Thanks
  12. This is worth a quick read. It's about guitar frets but the same applies to bass - https://www.seymourduncan.com/blog/latest-updates/fret-sizes-and-materials
  13. There's an MIJ '51 reissue on FB marketplace here (not mine, just came across it) - https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/225905075216407
  14. In the diagram above, follow the orange line from the pickups and you can see it connects with one terminal of the lower battery. This taps off a 9V feed to the pickups. The second battery is connected in series to the lower battery and delivers the full 18V (9V+9V) to the preamp.
  15. If you can't get more headroom out of the MEC circuit one option might be to swap that out for a John East BTB-01 Bass/Treble stack which will run at 18V. https://www.east-uk.com/index.php/bass/single-stack-modules/btb-01.html
  16. Here's an American Traditional headstock for comparison. The small decal at the top should read 'American Traditional'. The tuners in the original post look like they've been upgraded to vintage tuners with straight posts. In the neck pocket, above the S47843 there's a faint date stamp - looks like 1999 which would tally with the N9 serial number.
  17. Unusual and interesting mod! How are the pickups selected/switched/blended? What is the exact weight please and can you double check the string spacing which I think might be 19mm. Thanks.
  18. Having dug a bit deeper you may actually be right 😮. The adjustable pole pieces on newer Rics (2007 onwards) screw through the bobbin into the magnet. I found a pic of a disassembled bobbin and you can clearly see that the holes in the magnet for the pole pieces have been drilled at a slight angle. So when assembled the bobbin will look on the wonk. The holes used to screw the bobbin/magnet assembly to the baseplate are over-sized so there should be a bit of wiggle room to straighten things up by loosening these off and repositiooning. The magnet would then be on the wonk but that could be covered by a bezel. On pre 2007 pickups without adjustable pole pieces, the bobbin was just glued onto the magnet. Some of these were also wonky so whichever way you look at it it's not exactly a precision assembly job!
  19. Same as my old Zon Legacy fretless which I bought from John Giblin. Used by JG on various recordings with Kate Bush and Scott Walker, even a James Bond score. I was anticipating a dramatic improvement in my fretless playing but sadly not!
  20. Yes I looked at the bezel but even with that you can still see the pickup is slightly on the wonk! It's just sloppy assembly which is pretty bad for such an expensive bass. I don't actually have a 4003 yet BTW but have my eye on one and this is putting me off!
  21. I've noticed that some 4003 bridge pickups aren't quite square on the caddy which my OCD finds hard to deal with. How is the bridge pickup attached to the baseplate and is it an easy job to straighten it up?
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