ikay

Ah, a bit more like this then? Slightly less nauseating I have to admit!

Hmm ....

This article provides a useful summary of factors affecting human perception of tension and compliance/stiffness, but it's a recurring topic with many differing viewpoints so be prepared for an animated debate! https://www.liutaiomottola.com/myth/perception.htm

Everyone's 'normal' is different when it comes to setup lol! Here are the measurements for my '72 and a few pics by way of comparison. Action at 17th fret: G - 2.2 mm, D - 2.0 mm, A - 2.0 mm, E - 2.6mm (I measure using a 64th inch ruler, these are mm conversions) Distance of strings from pickup poles (with strings depressed at last fret: Neck pickup: G - 3.0mm, D - 4.8mm, A - 4.8mm, E - 3.6mm Bridge pickup: G - 3.2mm, D - 4.8mm, A - 4.8mm, E - 3.6mm Pickups are an old set of Fender Custom Shop 60's

Magnetic field intensity is inversely proportional to the square of distance from the source (ie. it decreases exponentially ). The D and A strings are around 2mm further from the poles on a 7.25" radius neck and that's enough to make a measurable difference in the output of those strings. There are other factors involved though, such as the strength of the magnets, the distance they are from the strings (the greater the distance, the less pronounced the differential effect), the gauge of the strings etc. How much of an issue it is will vary from bass to bass. On some it's hardly noticeable, on others more so. I can detect it on my '72, but it's easy enough to play round once you know it's there.

Uneven string balance is a pretty common feature of small radius necks with flat pickups. Winding the pickups down a bit can sometimes help to even things up a little. Otherwise just adjust your playing touch and dig in a little more with the D and A (or ease off on the G and E). It's pretty easy to get used to. I've got a couple of vintage Fenders and have become quite fond of their little idiosyncracies!

I get the benefit of raised pole pieces, just not sure that a plain washer will have the same effect. Surely any magnetic flux transmitted through the washer would be much weaker than the pole magnet itself? I've heard of small neo magnets being used to boost pickups (sometimes placed on the bottom of the pickup). Could also be placed on top of the pole but the neo mags might then overpower the G and E. They might also have noticeably different tonal characteristics to alnico.

Does this really work? I'm not dissing the idea, just interested in the physics.

My HCT Club has a very comfortable medium/low action and still has some downward adjustment at the bridge. I've had older Hofners with a much higher action (manly due to neck set issues) but I think most HCTs come with a pretty good range of adjustment.

The body 'waist' is much closer to the bridge on the A4 which also pushes the neck further away when seated.

What makes the Godin feel longer is the position of the top strap button which is opposite frets 14-15 (compared with fret 12 on a P bass) and the position of the bridge which is some distance in from the end pin (on a P the bridge is closer to the end pin). The effect of both of these is that the neck sticks out further from the body and from the top strap button. The resulting hanging position on a strap means you have to reach further for the low frets.

Some on ebay here - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pair-of-PICKUP-COVERS-in-BLACK-CREAM-WHITE-to-fit-USA-Precision-P-Bass-guitar/190980490847

Google throws up quite a few results on Markbass amps blowing fuses. Generally outcome seems to be sending it to Proel for repair. There's a thread on BC here:

Well it could easily be kitted out as an outside convenience ...

As a last resort you could get an RF shielding enclosure like this. It has the added advantage that you can camp out in it at gigs. https://www.vtechtextiles.com/rf-emi-shielding-enclosures-tents/

Very tempting indeed. I wonder why they made the pickup on the Squier a tiny bit smaller than a regular Mustang pup? To make upgrades less straightforward I guess lol! Or are they in the same sized casing but just spaced slightly differently? Comparison pic below (Fender Vintera on the left and Squier on the right).

The compensated nut is much wider than the old SR nut so it definitely wouldn't be a drop-in replacement.

If you're up for building it yourself here's a circuit for a mid control. This has sweepable freq (160 - 1kHz) but, as ITU says, you could replace the dual gang pot (P2A / P2B in the schematic) with a switch and two trimmers (or perhaps two dual gang mini pots in this case) to select your chosen mid frequencies. http://www.redcircuits.com/Page168.htm It might be simpler to just swap out the existing preamp for a three-band with switchable mids! Eg. Aguilar OBP-3, Bartolini HR 2.4 AP/918 and others.