hooky_lowdown

If you want bells and whistles go Sire, if you want a straight forward great bass go Yamaha. Simple. 😁

I've played a hofner and Dano's. I couldn't get on with the floating bridge on the Hofner, kept going out of tune. All Dano's are super fun to play, and have their own sound. I'd be worried about putting flats on the Dano though, and the machine head pegs looks very thin. May be Half rounds or Pressure wounds might be better.

There are many factors to the sound - strings, body and neck woods (poly and nitro finishes), pickups (active, ceramic, alnico) all affect the tone. This is all before even going to an amp and cab. Generally the strings have the biggest impact on one's sound, then pickups, then woods (Inc finish). Don't always dismiss what might be referred to as cheaper wood bodies, like basswood. Some basses no matter what they are made of, or how they are finished just sound better than others.

I think Eastcoast is another brand name of Stagg. So it's basically a Stagg. Stagg are ok, but Yamaha, Ibanez and especially the Vintage (brand!) are far better. The Squire vintage modified range is also very good. Also Harley Benton and J&D make decent beginner basses at very low prices. Personally, I'd buy a Vintage V4 reissue P bass or Vintage V74 jazz bass, or even a Vintage V96 musicman bass. All have very good hardware and pickups, and are not too heavy.

What @Bassalarky said. The QP has a very high output, so if you use the stock jazz and QP together you'll notice a big drop in output from just the QP on its own. You're probably be best to match the QP P pickup with a bridge QP Jazz pickup.

I had a bass once, where the truss rod nut was full of dirt, tried using lubricant and a metal pick to get the dirt out, didn't really help. If you really like the bass it's probably best to get a Lutheir to replace the nut, else move it along.

Yes, generally a tiny bit of relief, so tiny bit of upward bow from being dead straight. With the strings off your neck should bow downwards, then the tension of the strings brings the neck straight. With a high action you can have the neck bowing very, very slightly downward once the strings are tuned because the clearance over the first fret will be more than if the action is lower.

Is this a rhetorical question? I've found not all truss rods use the same size Allen key, so if you have a set of different sized Allen keys, try them all until one fits. MIM basses generally only need an Allen key to adjust.

Does indeed look like a beast, nice weight too. 👍

Your neck should have a little bit if relief, as you have increased the saddle height you'll need to reduce the relief to compensate. Did you change the strings also, as different tension will also require adjusting the relief?

I think what @Woodinblack is trying to say is yes, there is some neck dive, but not overly so.

The SG's just look so freaking cool. A comparison between the Gibson and Epiphone would be of interest to many I should think (myself included)?

Looking to upgrade pickups on a PJ passive bass. Does it matter which way round the J pup is installed?

Looks like Lake Placid Blue to me, but very nice none-the-less. 😃

That's the beauty of a P bass. 👍

Looks great, though don't know why they didn't go for a black chrome control plate, instead of bright chrome, that would look killer. 😎

Yup, Wilkinson is the best inexpensive option.

Congrats for Sunday. 🎂

Don't hold back @lemonstar - most here don't. I would guess the demographic has something to do with it.

@Quilly if you want to make your neck play like butter, this video will show you, it's cheap and easy to do yourself.